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Where to take an afternoon break

Linda Perney | STAFF WRITER

Tables set for tea at lady Mendl

Yes, yes, we know. Your mother told you to stick to three squares and never, ever, to eat between meals. So, maybe it's the thrill of the forbidden that makes an afternoon snack -- sweet or savory -- feel a tiny bit wicked. Here are some of our favorite places to indulge.

MANHATTAN

Cafe Sabarsky. You don't get more Old-World than this little cafe in the Neue Galerie. Almost everything is good, but the apple strudel is excellent. And don't pass up the coffee. (1048 Fifth Avenue; 212-288-0665)

City Bakery. The real metier here is lunch: sandwiches, soups, and salads, but the pastries are among the city's best (don't miss: the pretzel croissant). And there's always the hot chocolate to look forward to. (3 West 18th Street; 212-366-1414)

Payard. Those folks on the Upper East Side got very lucky when Chef Payard opened up his bistro/patisserie in their neighborhood --they get to relax over afternoon tea with the house pastries. (1032 Lexington Avenue; 212-717-5252 )

Lady Mendl's. A little over the top, what with all the Victorian tschochkes, but a terrific place for a classic tea--complete with a glass of champagne, finger sandwiches, and little pastries. Not cheap, though; it'll cost you $35 a head. (56 Irving Place; 212-533-4466)

Tea and Sympathy. What more traditional way to take a break than with a late-wfternoon cuppa? This little place is crowded with expatriate Brits who linger over afternoon tea -- a carb-laden spread of finger sandwiches, scones, clotted cream, and cakes. Needless to say, if you want coffee, you can have that, too. (106-110 Greenwich Avenue; 212-989-9735)

BROOKLYN

The Chocolate Room. Some say theirs is the best chocolate layer cake in the city. What we can say for sure is they're probably the only ones who make an ice cream float with Brooklyn Brewery's Chocolate Stout. (86 Fifth Avenue; 718-783-2900)

Sweet Melissa. This little bakery has a few seats just behind a display counter that shows off the daily pastry choices: a chocolate truffle cake, old-fashioned butterscotch pudding, fruit tarts, almond-filled croissants. If you want something more substantial, there are salads and soups, a daily vegetarian quiche, and well-stuffed sandwiches made with challah bread. (276 Court Street; 718-855-3410)

QUEENS

La Flor Bakery and Cafe. Locals know the pastries at this little place are very fine, and it gets crowded at lunchtime. But the real standout is the hot chocolate, a mix of Mexican and Belgian chocolate. (53-02 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, 718-426-8023)