A career up in smoke

By Karen Tina Harrison | Special to amNewYork

May 12, 2008

Ex-cop "Big Lou" Elrose is Wildwood Barbeque's main meat man. (Karen Tina Harrison)

The Big Career Switch

From NYPD cop to BBQ king

Who Pulled It Off

"Big Lou" Elrose, 56

What He Does

Elrose is the "pitmaster" in charge of meat at Wildwood Barbeque at 225 Park Ave. South. (www.brguestrestaurants.com)

What He Used to To

Elrose was an NYPD officer, mainly as a motorcycle cop on highway patrol.

Why He Did a 180º

"I'd done my 20 years, and then 9/11 happened. I'd always loved to cook and had done some catering. It was time to pursue my passion."

How He Did It

"I started competing on the barbecue circuit with a friend, and I ran a barbecue cart in Queens that got very popular. That led to full-time jobs as a pitmaster."

What A Pitmaster Does

"I select all the meat served at Wildwood--ribs, brisket, pork, chicken, you name it. I created our various sauces and spice rubs, and I chose our smokers--the ovens--plus the applewood and oak logs they use. I do a lot of kitchen training, and I oversee the butchers and assistant pitmasters."

Who Does This Job Best?

"You can't rush barbecue, so you need infinite patience. You have to know your meat and the chemistry of barbecue cooking. You must be able to read your coworkers and work effectively with them as a team--otherwise, there's chaos in the kitchen. And you must be committed to hard work. When a pitmaster cuts corners, you can taste it."

How's The Dough?

"If you're an inspired and dedicated pitmaster, your barbecue will become known. Then you can partner up with a restaurant and do very well."

What About Perks?

"Pitmasters eat delicious barbecue every day, and they get to see their customers enjoy it. And it's a great feeling when your kitchen's in a groove."

What You Should Know

"Bobby Flay, Mario Batali, Martha Stewart and Al Roker are all fans of my barbecue. That makes me feel pretty damn good."