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Where to take a first date

Schiller's Liquor Bar on Rivington Street (Christie Farriella)

Finding a restaurant for a first date is no easy trick. It goes without saying that the food should be good -- or at least interesting. You want buzzy, but you don't want to have to scream at each other to be heard. You want classy, not cloying. You want fun, not silly. You want relaxed, not overpowering, stylish but not necessarily chic. Here are 10 picks, in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens

MANHATTAN

Schiller's Liquor Bar. Crowded, yes, and a name for hip. Like its sisters, Balthazar and Pastis, it serves well-prepared food with a French accent and a bit of style. The drawback: It gets pretty noisy. The pluses: carafes of house wine that go for $19 and are perfectly drinkable; mac and cheese that will set you back a trifling $12; and a perfectly cooked rotisserie chicken for $17.50. (131 Rivington Street; 212-260-4555; expect to pay between $30 and $50 for a three-course dinner.)

Acme. It's been around for positively ever, but if you're in the neighborhood, this shrine to Cajun and southern cooking draws an enthusiastic crowd. Management doesn't get too carried away with itself -- the menu calls the place an "OK place to eat," but false modesty aside, the gumbo is terrific. On the other hand, you might want to give that fried okra a miss. (9 Great Jones Street; 212-420-1934; expect to pay between $25 and $40 for a three-course dinner)

Nice Matin If it's French food you want, this place on the Upper West Side is just the ticket. The service is friendly but professional, and the room and bar buzz with good cheer. The food is what you come for, though, and among the menu's top choices are the short ribs sided with chickpea fries and the leg of lamb. Did we mention the side of ratatouille that you really should try? Or the pissaladiere to start with? (209 West 79th Street; 212-873-6423; expect to pay between $30 and $50 for a three-course dinner)

Ruby Foo. You can get more authentic food in Chinatown, but then you wouldn't have the giant Buddha to stare at. This sprawling restaurant is definitely over the top, but that's part of its charm. The food is fine, even if your friend from Hangchow might not recognize it. We like the filet mignon with asparagus and the firecracker shrimp. But we know people who go just for the dim-sum, and others who swear by the sushi. (1626 Broadway, at 49th Street; 212-489-5600; expect to pay between $35 and $60 for a three-course dinner)

Aroma. Great things come in small packages, they used to say, and that applies to Aroma. The space is small, brick-walled, and chandeliered. There are wine tastings at the bar; the menu is small, but just about everything on it is worth a try. There's classic spaghetti bolognese, but there's also suckling pig or tuna with fennel and olives. Desserts come plain or fancy: chocolate cake with walnut "pesto" or blood orange sorbet. There's a prix-fixe at $35 ($50 with wine), and a "family dinner" Sundays for $30.(36 East 4th Street; 212-375-0100; expect to pay between $40 and $50 for a three-course dinner)

The Red Cat. The first of the three successful siblings, which also include the Harrison and the Mermaid, the Red Cat serves terrific food in a relaxed setting: Share the lobster and potato chip salad. For mains, there are choices like grilled trout, pork chops, and steak. Desserts include lemon merengue pie or bread pudding. All very tasty. (227 10th Avenue; 212-242-1122; expect to pay between $40 and $60 for a three-course dinner)

BROOKLYN

Chez Oskar. make a date for something at BAM, then head the few blocks over to this friendly, laid back place for a well-prepared steak with fries and bearnaise or an order of mussels with creme fraiche and mustard sauce. Want to spend a little less? There are pastas, burgers, and salads, too. (211 Dekalb Avenue; 718-852-6250; expect to pay between $20 and $35 for a three-course dinner)

Five Front. Everybody should have a Five Front in the neighborhood. Service and food are both great, the place is classy looking in a New York kind of a way, and when the weather warms up you'll be able to eat outdoors in the garden. For apps, the short-rib dumplings are worth a trip on their own. Duck breast, monkfish, house-made pasta, all are good, and if you don't want to have dinner in the dining room, you can eat at the bar. (Five Front Street; 718-625-5559; expect to pay about $30 for a three-course dinner)

Bar Minnow This is Fish Central in Park Slope, and the tuna with pesto is one of the great dishes at this comfortable, relaxed place. But even if your friend is looking for something less finny, they'll find it here. Duck breast or steak, maybe. (442 9th Street; 718-832-5500; expect to pay between $30 and $45 for a three-course meal; note: there's a five-course tasting menu for $45)

QUEENS

Brick Cafe Astoria's old-world-y litle bistro has plenty of style. Candlelight, old brick walls, a tin ceiling and antiques. The menu's nothing to sneeze at, either: try the veal chop with mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes or the linguine with shrimps, clams, and mussels. (30-95 33rd Street, Astoria; 718-267-2735; expect to pay between $25 and $50 for a three-course dinner)