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Great Tacos

August 10, 2006

Where to get the best tacos in New York City

Great tacos (AP Photo/Cooking Light/Lee Harrelson)

The burning question is: Can you get a decent taco in New York? The prevailing wisdom says no. Now, we know the BQE isn't the PCH and Woodside isn't Santa Monica. But, hey, sometimes a fish taco is just a fish taco. Here are some worth a try.

MANHATTAN

Mercadito.The food of southern Mexico is the specialty at this cheery little East Village place, but keep in mind that portions are served in 'small plate' sizes, so order a couple to share. People praise the tacos al pastor with pork and pineapple. But the fish tacos are sublime, and the white wine sangria is just fine. (179 Avenue B; 212-529-6490; tacos go for $13.50 per order)

Agave. Well. Squash blossoms with avocado cream do not exactly make a traditional taco filling. But it tastes good, so don't complain. This sleek-looking Village place is a good choice for a relaxed lunch on a day when the windows are open and you can watch as the neighborhood walks by. (140 Seventh Avenue South; 212-989-2100; expect to pay $14-$18 for the tacos, or go for the $12.95 prix-fixe lunch.)

Rosa Mexicano. The Upper West Side branch is one of the best places in the neighborhood for a bite before anything at Lincoln Center. Order the pomegranate margarita and some guacamole; then chow down on the marinated pork tacos. (61 Columbus Avenue, 212-977-7700; 9 East 18th Street, 212-533-3350; or 1063 First Avenue, 212-753-7407. Tacos, $16.75-$19.50; guacamole, $14)

Zaragoza Mexican Deli You don't go here for an evening's entertainment. You go for terrific tacos to take out or for a quick, cheap lunch (there are only a few seats, you'll eat off paper plates, and the place is hectic). But it's plenty authentic, too. (215 Avenue A; 212-780-9204. Expect to pay about $8)

Dos Caminos. Some say it isn't authentic enough; others say it's too expensive. But it's hard to beat that outdoor space on a summer evening. (475 West Broadway; 212-277-4300. Tacos, $13-$15. )

La Paloma. If you're looking for a hit of authentic Mexican food in midtown, you can't do much better than this simple little place on the West side. Don't expect anything fancy; do expect fresh, tasty food -- cheap. Hint: the place is always crowded; it's best for takeout. (359 West 45th Street; 212-581-3844 or 212-581-4206. Expect to pay less than $6 per taco)

La Esquina. If it looks exactly as you always thought a taqueria should look, chalk it up to the owner, Serge Becker, the designer behind Bowery Bar. There's counter-service on Kenmare; you'll find a more elaborate menu -- and atmosphere -- at the cafe around the corner. (106 Kenmare Street; 646-613-1333; expect to pay about $8-$9 per order)

BROOKLYN

Uncle Moe's Those folks in Park Slope are lucky: Uncle Moe does more for them than most uncles ever do. Get lucky, and your fish taco will be made with salmon. Not authentic, you say. Well, just take a taste. (341 Seventh Avenue; 718-965-0006; fish tacos are $3.75; $4.50 for the super)

QUEENS

La Flor Bakery The place is busy at breakfast -- the owner made his name as a pastry chef, and the morning pastries and rolls get plenty of praise. As for the tacos -- they come stuffed with spicy pork, shrimp, steak, and chicken. Eminently staisfying. (53-02 Roosevelt Avenue; 718-426-8023; two tacos, $7.95)