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Indian food worth celebrating

Compiled by Linda Perney

Indian food (Photo by - Bruce Gilbert)

Indian food is one of the world's great cuisines, and New York is full of terrific restaurants that serve it. Here are ten we like.

MANHATTAN

Amma
The name means 'mother' in Hindi, and the restaurant has the same soothing qualities of a mythical maternal being. The room is softly lit and the walls and banquettes done in glowing spicy tones. Like any good mother, Amma piles on the food: don't order too many appetizers or you won't be able to finish your supper. Desserts are especially addictive Can't figure out what to eat? Try the $50 tasting menu. (246 East 51st Street; 212-644-8330)

Brick Lane Curry House
The specialties are curries as they are made in London, and the best-known of them all is the phaal, which comes in lamb, shrimp, chicken or veg. varieties, and is so hot the restaurant offers you a free beer if you can finish a whole portion of the stuff. If you're looking for something, well, a little more reasonable, try the smooth, tasty chicken tikka masala. (306-308 East 6th Street; 212-979-2900)

Chennai Garden
If you've ever been to India, you know that one of the country's glories is its street food, and bhel poori is one of the glories of that glory. The version served at Chennai Garden, a kosher/vegetarian/Indian restaurant in Curry Hill, could hold its own on any Indian street, and that's saying something. Other great choices: rasam, masala dosa and chana saag, a spinach and chick pea dish. (129 E. 27th Street; 212-689-1999)

Hampton Chutney Co.
The dosas are wondrous at this spin-off of the restaurant in Amagansett. For filling, stick with the masala and stay away from the more outre combinations. The prices are good, and the soup is delicious. The namesake chutney isn't awhat it should be, though. (68 Prince Street; 212-226-9996

Haveli
There are a couple of things Haveli has learned from the neighborhood, and the most important is the value of staying open late. The decor is handsome, the menu varied, but what makes the place indispensable is that it's still open when you're actually getting hungry for Indian food -- somewhere around 10 or 11 p.m. Do order the rogan josh made with goat. (100 Second Avenue; 212-982-0533)

Kalustyan's Cafe
If you've ever gone shopping at Kalustyan's grocery, you know about selection. Now, they've opened a cafe, and translated variety in the grocery cart to variety at the dinner table. (115 Lexington Avenue; 212-686-5400)

Salaam Bombay
Tribeca's upscale Indian restaurant knows how to please a crowd. The menu is varied, the service is professional. The decor is sophisticated. And the crowd seems to be having a good time. Try the garlicky tandoori shrimp. (319 Greenwich Street; 212-226-9400)

QUEENS

Jackson Diner
Queens's venerable Indian restaurant caters both to sophisticated city palates and Indian families out for a weekend dinner. There's almost nothing this restaurant tries that isn't a success. The lamb korma is especially fine. Just don't expect a quiet meal; this is a place that caters to an enthusiastic crowd, and it does get noisy. (37-47 74th Street, Jackson Heights; 718-672-1232)

Kabab King Diner So, it doesn't look like much. The food is excellent, prices are low, and it's open around the clock. What more could you ask? Well, you answer, if only it were a little easier to get to. And there, you have a point. Go for the freshly grilled kababs. (73-01 37th Road, Jackson Heights; 718-457-5857)

BROOKLYN

Baluchi
Baluchi is a chain, but it turns out perfectly good Indian specialties. The Brooklyn outpost, in the space that was once Pho, is cheerful and airy, and, as usual in Indian restaurants, the staff couldn't be more helpful. The chicken Makhani and the lamb saagwala are both worth trying. (263 Smith Street; 718-797-0707)