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City Living: Yorkville

By Marlene Naanes | Special to amNewYork

February 16, 2006

Yorkville is home to the mayor's official residence, Gracie Mansion, but the Upper East Side neighborhood used to be home to the "German Broadway" aka 86th Street. That street was once lined with German nightclubs, butchers, vaudeville houses, restaurants and clothiers.

The neighborhood's European roots have largely vanished as word got out that the Upper East Side's best-kept secret had inexpensive rents and an almost suburban feel.

Friendly neighbors, good public and private schools, countless houses of worship and restaurants also attracted newcomers looking for a well-rounded place to settle. As more young professionals and families moved in, however, rents inched up.

The old German Yorkville can be found in a few butcher shops and restaurants, but you have to look hard. And as high-rises replace tenement-style walkups, the area is losing its second greatest claim to fame as one of the few affordable areas in Manhattan.

TO FIND IT:

It lies approximately between 79th and 96th streets and between 3rd Ave. and the East River.

TO EAT:

A slew of restaurants line 86th St. between 3rd and 2nd avenues.

Unfortunately most of the eateries serving European fare vanished as the neighborhood's predominately German and Hungarian residents left. A couple, however, remain:

-The Heidelberg: This eatery is not just bustling during the German-American Steuben Parade in September. This German restaurant and beer garden is busy year round with lederhosen-clad waiters serving traditional goulash, bratwurst and, of course, beer. Go on the weekend to catch live German music.
1648 Second Ave.
(212) 628-2332

-Mocca: In a marriage made in foodie heaven this Hungarian mainstay, and Frankie's, a mostly American restaurant, joined forces about 12 years ago in one family-style setting. You get two separate menus offering food from Yorkville's past and present cultures.
1546 2nd Ave.
(212) 472-9193

-York Grill: For a special night out head to this finely decorated restaurant, which serves equally rich food, such as herb-crusted rack of lamb with potato leek gratin.
1690 York Ave.
(212) 772-0291

TO PARTY:

-Fiona's Bar and Restaurant: This is not a sports bar, but if you like soccer, Celtic football or rugby you'll find matches broadcast at all hours of the day/night. This joint serves Irish fare and full dinners from other ethnic origins. It offers ample seating in its restaurant booths, tables and barstools after hours.