As co-owner of The Meatball Shop, Michael Chernow is the city's foremost ball joke enthusiast. But it's not all balls to the wall at his newest spot, Seamore's (390 Broome St., 212-730-6005). This NoLita eatery is about the seafood.

A fisherman since childhood, Chernow is bringing his love of fish to the masses -- and the masses are into it (just check out the line). Once you've made it in, there's a lot to enjoy about Seamore's. The spot is bright with natural light and the open kitchen in the back makes the space even more bustling. Grab a seat at the bar or head to a table, many of which are communal so get ready to knock a few elbows.

Seamore's has a wide variety of fish on the menu, and it's constantly changing. On one night I had blowfish tails -- dense white fish the size of a rib that I could pick up and gnaw off the bone. The flesh was fiery hot, leaving my lips tingly until I left.

Another menu winner is the Oh-Boy ($16). I know fried chicken sandwiches are all the rage right now, but this sandwich is a tough competitor. The skate is perfectly fried and seasoned; it's crispy and just melts into the pickled peppers and house sauce when you take a bite. It's messy, but that's part of its allure.

On any given night, you can go with the customizable Reel Deal ($21). Select your fish from three specials and then your sauce, with options including a creamy harissa cashew and miso brown butter. The whole thing is served over three sides, which rotate often.

The staff is extremely knowledgeable about the fish options. Unsure about the texture of tilefish or what the heck porgy is? Just ask.

Even without his beloved balls, Chernow delivers an awesome meal.

Ariel Kanter is an editor at Gilt City.