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Steak frites to die for

By Daisy Carrington | dcarrington@am-ny.com

2:35 PM EDT, August 29, 2007

While you can¹t throw a stone without hitting a French bistro in this town, the same can¹t be said for a quality serving of steak frites. This en francais version of meat and potatoes calls for soft, fall-off-the-bone-tender beef, and thin, crisp fries. Here's where to get them.

Lucien Though somewhat cramped, Lucien Bahaj¹s Lower East Side bistro offers wonderful traditional French fare at a reasonable price. For some, Lucien, a madcap eccentric, is half the draw. For others, it¹s the authentic food and truly Parisian atmosphere. (14 First Ave, bet. 1st and 2nd Streets; 212- 260-6481; luciennyc.com; Entrees, $18-28)

Odeon Want a little romance (perhaps with a Wall Street stockbroker)? Then head to the 20-year old bistro that made Tribeca famous and that¹s fed the likes of Andy Warhol. The steak frites ($32) has been on the menu as long as the restaurant¹s been open, and the formula for it hasn¹t changed (why should it? It¹s perfect). For an extra couple of bucks, get it served with roquefort or roasted garlic butter. (145 W. Broadway at Thomas Street; 212-233-0507; theodeonrestaurant.com; Entrees, $22-34)

Les Halles The beauty of Anthony Bourdain¹s bistros is that pretty much everything on the menu comes with pomme frites. Not a lover of red meat? Opt for the moules frites ( Maine mussels with fries). Or try the roasted amish organic chicken frites. Really, it¹s up to you. Plus, if you¹re in the mood for a late night snack, the restaurant stays open until midnight. (411 Park Ave South; 212-679-4111 or 15 John Street; 212-285-8585; www.leshalles.net; Entrees, $13.50-32)

Mon Petit Café The steak frites and the steak au poivre (topped with peppercorn, brandy and cream sauce) are to die for at this modest Midtown haven, in business for 22 years. Not only is the menu affordable, but the ambience is tres romantique, and perfect for a first date. If you¹re in the mood for jazz, a three-piece French band plays on Sunday nights. (801 Lexington Ave.; 212-355-2233; www.monpetitcafe.com; Entrees, $19.95-29.95)

Fada A favorite amongst the Billy-burg hipster crowd, Fada serves exquisite food that¹s both free range and organic. Though the food is as good as any of the Manhattan bistros, the atmosphere is more relaxed and reflects the mood of the hood. (530 Drggs Ave. at N. 8th St., Brooklyn; 718-388-6607; www.fadany.com; Entrees, $15-20)