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The Imbiber: Pisco Sours

Dan Dunn | Special to amNewYork

Pisco sour (Katya Pronin)

My buddy Domingo is a Manhattan bartender who hails from Peru and swears by a viscous elixir he calls "aguardiente," or "firewater," better known as pisco.

Domingo proudly proclaims his native country to be the rightful home of the pisco denomination, though there are plenty of folks from Chile who would no doubt emphatically disagree with that assessment.

For as far as back as anyone can remember, these neighboring South American countries have argued over the origin of pisco, a delicate spirit distilled from Muscat-style grapes. Most Americans, however, could hardly care less -- they simply don't know pisco from Picchu (as in Machu, Peru's famed Lost City of the Incas).

That wasn't always the case. From the late 1800s to the early 20th Century, the Pisco Sour and Pisco Punch were popular libations stateside, particularly in San Francisco, where South American miners settled during the Gold Rush.

When the gold disappeared so, for all intents and purposes, did the South American hootch. But now, thanks to the efforts of innovative barkeeps like Domingo, pisco is making a comeback at high-end watering holes on both coasts.

One of the best brands I've come across is BarSol Pisco, made by Bodega San Isidro, one of the oldest and most traditional producers in Peru. Using a process that dates back 150 years, BarSol distills its brandy in copper Alambic stills much like the ones used to make cognac.

The result is a clean, almost neutral-flavored spirit that is -- like vodka -- ideal for mixing cocktails. Don't tell that to pisco purists, though, many of whom believe it is heresy to consume the stuff any other way but neat.

There are two varieties of BarSol Pisco -- Quebranta (red label) and Acholado (blue label). The former is a non-aromatic style produced from a single grape varietal, ideal for making cocktails (see recipes); the blue label is an aromatic blend best served neat. BarSol Pisco retails for $19.99 a bottle. You can find it at Astor Wines & Spirits (399 Lafayette St.reet) and behind the bars at Tailor (525 Broome St.reet) and Highline Ballroom (431 W.est 16th St.reet).

Pisco Sour

2oz BarSol Pisco Quebranta
1oz fresh lime juice
1oz simple syrup (sugar)
1/2 oz pasteurized egg white
A few drops of Angostura Bitters

Place ice, pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white in a cocktail shaker. Shake and strain into a sours glass. Garnish with two2 drops of Angostura Bitters on top of the foam.

Pisco Punch

2oz BarSol Pisco Quebranta
1oz fresh lime juice
1oz simple syrup (sugar)
2 parts Dole pineapple juice
1 large ice cube or several small ice cubes in glass
Cherry for garnish

Place pisco, lime juice, simple syrup and pineapple juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill with cold water, stir. Serve in a highball glass and garnish with cherry.

Dan Dunn is the author of the book "Nobody Likes a Quitter (and other reasons to avoid rehab)," available at Amazon.com. He talks wine and spirits every Friday from noon to 1 pm on Channel 108 on Sirius Satellite Radio