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Brunch for a multi-culti Mom

Linda Perney | amny.com

3:00 PM EDT, April 29, 2008

Brunch for Mom: Inside Balthazar (left); Dim sum at Jing Fong (top); the tea table at Tea and Sympathy (bottom); a salad at Madiba (right)

When you ask her what she likes to eat, she says anything -- or everything. Here's a baker's dozen brunch -- or lunch -- places to choose between for an out-of-the-ordinary way to start her big day.

AFRICAN
Madiba. Certainly, this was the city's first South African restaurant; it may be the only one. If the weather holds, take a table out in the sidewalk cafe and order up a couple of minty mojitos. You might want to give the toast and marmite a miss; likewise the rusks. But the scones are good with jam and cream, and the Safari breakfast (fried eggs, grilled tomatoes, bacon and mushrooms) will set you up for the day. (Entrees, $8-$16; 195 Dekalb Avenue, Brooklyn; 718 855 9190)

AUSTRIAN

Cafe Sabarsky. Tucked inside the Neue Galerie on Fifth Avenue's Museum Mile, the cafe is the perfect place for a bite with a Mom who likes to look at pictures. High-ceilinged, wood-paneled, furnished with marble-topped tables and bentwood chairs, the place is nostalgically European-looking; the food is tasty -- crepes with trout and horseradish cream is a terrific entree, and the sandwiches are fine, too. But as in any Austrian cafe, the showstoppers are the coffee and pastries. Do save room for the chocolate-hazlenut torte, or the Van Gogh torte -- white peach mousse and elderflower cream. (Entrees, $12-$27; sandwiches, $12-$15; pastries, $8; 1048 Fifth Avenue; 212-628-6200)

BARBECUE
RUB. Righteous Urban Barbecue, that is. And righteous is right. You could start with a side of fried green tomatoes or a couple of hush puppies apiece. But you don't want to get too distracted. The main event is the entree (burnt ends is the way to go, if you ask me), but there are plenty of folks who are just as happy with a sandwich and a side of slaw. Leave room, though, for the deep-fried Oreos. (Entrees, $19.95-$26.75; sandwiches, $8.75-$11.75; 208 W. 23rd St.; 212-524-4300)

CHINESE
Jing Fong Take the long escalator ride up to the gigantic second floor banquet hall for superb Hong Kong-style dim sum. Make sure to check the buffet line as well as the carts--you'll find fresh vegtables, savory dumplings, and lots of Chinese families happily chatting and eating. (Dim sum: $3.95-$4.50; entrees: $11.95-$26.95; 20 Elizabeth Street, 2nd Floor; 212-964-5256

ENGLISH
Tea and Sympathy. It used to be that English cooking was thought to be an oxymoron. That's all changed now, but some of the items on the menu here bring back the bad old days. Try wrapping your brain around a menu selection like Heinz spaghetti on toast. But the shepherd's pie and the bangers and mash -- not to mention the Welsh rarebit -- are all plenty good. If you want to wait a little before you eat, the afternoon tea is terrific: finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and strawberry or raspberry jam and a selection of cakes. Plus the tea, of course. (Tea for two, $50; entrees, $8.95-$18.95; salads and sandwiches, $7.50-$14.95; 108 Greenwich Avenue; 212-989-9735)

FRENCH
Balthazar. Might as well admit, Balthazar is the classic brunch/breakfast spot in the city: mirrors, banquettes, a great bar makes it still pretty glam. The basket of bread fresh from the bakery is not to be missed, the French toast is mighty fine, and the waffles with berries lend a festive touch. (Entrees, $16.50-$18; 80 Spring Street; 212-965-1414)

ITALIAN
Barbuto. Jonathan Waxman's cheerful corner restaurant in the far West Village is a nice place to while away part of an afternoon. As ever, the menu is a little unpredictable; the most the restaurant woud say is that there will probably be more brunch-style sdishes on the menu for the big day than there usually is. Trademark dishes are the pizzas and the roasted chicken. (Entrees, $15-$19; pastas, $16-$17; 775 Washington Street; 212.924.9700)

JAMAICAN
Maroons. They'll be serving dinner all day, but between 11:30 and 4:30 there will be brunch, too, served to the sounds of a jazz trio. If they have it, go for the chicken and waffles.(Prix-fixe brunch:$15; 244 West 16th Street; 212-206-8640)

MEXICAN
Bonita.They have all the usual Brunch stuff: huevos rancheros, chorizo and eggs, burritos. But you really go here for the fish tacos: lightly breaded and crisp. (Entrees, $7-$9.50; 338 Bedford Ave, Williamsburg; 718-384-9500. Or 243 DeKalb Avenue, Fort Greene; 718- 622-5300)

SEAFOOD
Ditch Plains. They aren't doing anything special for Mother's Day. But, then again, they don't have to. This sleek-looking laid-back restaurant offers its regular menu anytime between 11 am and 2 am: The lobster roll is tops, the fish taco is nearly as good. And if you don't like fish, there are always the Ditch Dogs (two of them, sided with fries). (Entrees, $12-$28; 29 Bedford Street; 212-633-0202)

STEAKHOUSE
CIty Hall. Downtown's classic steakhouse serves up a very fine brunch. Take a seat outside if the weather is good. (131 Duane Street; 212-227-7777)

THAI
Kittichai. The surpassingly elegant Thai restaurant in the Sixty Thompson Hotel has a brunch that threads its way between classic Thai cuisine (green mango salad; Pad Thai) and adventurous fusion (Kaffir lime leaf souffle, ginger and cilantro gravlax). (Brunch prix-fixe, $20; 212-219-2000)

VEGETARIAN
Counter. The East Village's stylish organic bistro has a simple brunch of salads and sandwiches, plus a mean French toast served with banana flambe. The house cocktails -- all organic as well -- are pretty tasty, too. (Entrees, $10-$11; 105 First Avenue; 212-982-5870)