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'Molecular cocktails' break into New York's nightlife

By Caroline Coppel | Special to amNewYork

June 20, 2008

Japonais features the molecular cocktail "Watermelon Imperial" for $18 which includes the ingredients Moet Nectar with watermelon foam. (Sam Horine / June 19, 2008)

Calcium chloride, carbon dioxide, liquid nitrogen -- you wouldn't expect the stuff that you played with in chemistry class to find its way into your evening cocktail. Yet creative mixologists around the city are using science to invent new drinks for their menus.

"They take the building blocks of a cocktail... and then reconfigure them in ways that make you rethink the drink itself," said Jim Meehan, a bartender at East Village lounge PDT. "There's a sort of playfulness about it. "

Inspired by molecular gastronomy -- the concept of applying scientific principles to preparing food -- molecular cocktails often contain liquids in altered physical states (ranging from upscale foams to your everyday Jell-O shot).

So go ahead and be adventurous. We promise not to quiz your knowledge of the periodic table afterwards.

Japonais
111 E. 18th St., between Park Avenue South and Irving Plaza
212-260-2020
This Gramercy Park restaurant is known for its fresh sushi and elegant atmosphere, but its cocktail menu features specialty drinks. The Watermelon Imperial ($15) has a base of Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial champagne, topped with watermelon foam. Made by squirting watermelon puree out of a carbon dioxide canister, the foam is meant to add flavor without compromising the taste or consistency of the champagne. Another cocktail, the Caviar Imperial (also $15) combines Moët Nectar and saffron-infused blood orange "caviar." Though they resemble orange fish eggs, the "caviar" balls really contain calcium chloride and sodium alginate.

ICON
130 E. 39th St. at Lexington Avenue
212-592-8888
Located in the W Hotel, this stylish restaurant recently added a molecular vanilla martini ($12) to its drink selection. Faux pineapple "caviar" is mixed with vanilla vodka and dry vermouth for a sweet twist on a popular cocktail.

Fiamma
206 Spring St., between Sixth Avenue and Sullivan Street
212-653-0100
Specializing in Italian favorites with a modern twist, this SoHo restaurant is ideal for an elegant meal. It also offers cutting-edge cocktails, including the Paradiso ($14), in which peach-white pepper foam sits atop a mix of rum and amaretto. A little lemon makes it a refreshing cocktail for the hot summer months.

PDT
113 St. Marks Pl., between First Avenue and Avenue A
212-614-0386
PDT ("Please Don't Tell") has an old-time speakeasy feel, but its cocktails are nothing short of futuristic. Bartender Jim Meehan uses a technique called "fat-washing" to create the Benton's Old Fashioned ($12). He steeps bacon fat in Four Roses bourbon to give the drink a smoky flavor, and then uses maple syrup instead of sugar.

Country
90 Madison Ave. at 29th Street
212-889-7100
This contemporary American restaurant and cafe serves three molecular cocktails: the Jarnac, which is Moët and Chandon White Star champagne served with ginger-peach foam. Similar cocktails include the Le Royal -- Moët Nectar Imperial with cherry-beet foam -- and the Peche Passion -- Moët White Star with passion fruit-peach foam. All three drinks are $15. Enjoy your cocktails in Country's luxurious champagne bar, which is connected to the dining room by a glass bridge.