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New steakhouses in town

Linda Perney

2:57 PM EST, January 10, 2007

Steaks at Quality Meats.

Steak is the new salmon, judging by the number of steakhouses that have opened in the past year or so. Herewith, a quick look at some of our favorites among the newcomers.

Quality Meats Part of the Smith and Wollensky dynasty, Alan Stillman knows plenty about steak. He also appears to know how to remap the territory. The restaurant is sharp-looking, the crowd is hip. And the menu puts a little spin on tradition: corn creme brulee, minted edamame, gnocchi with cheese. Sound familiar? They're not supposed to. (Expect to pay $45-$85. 57 West 58th Street; 212-371-7777)

Benjamin Steak House At this rate Peter Lueger will have to close its doors. Yet another employee -- this time the chef, Arturo McLeod -- has walked out of Williamsburg and headed across the river to a room of his own. The place is about what you'd expect, given its pedigree: a shrimp cocktail that comes in two sizes, crabcakes, and seafood platter for appetizers; The main event ranges from aged steaks and chops to a pretty good selection of fish. Sides and salads are the classics. (Expect to pay between $55 and $85; 52 East 41st Street; 212-297-9177)

Porter House New York Another addition to the Time Warner 'food court,' Porter House brings Michael Lomonaco back to center stage. There are terrific views over the park, and the Mission-style decor emphasizes the restaurant's all-American style. For appetizers, go for the stone crab (in season); to go along with the prime steaks and chops, there are the expected onion rings, creamed spinach and hash browns. But there are also roasted beets, braised kale, and pan-roasted mushrooms. (Expect to pay $60-$100; 10 Columbus Circle, 212-823-9500)

STK. If you can bear the Meatpacking District, STK is a fine place for a steak. The black and white walls, the central lounge, the noise, the DJ, the crowds, all are predictable. The menu includes such appetizers as foie gras french toast; steak portions come in small, medium and large. (Expect to pay between $45 and $100; 26 Little West 12th Street; 646-624-2444)

7Square Mid-century slick, they like to call this place a "modern chophouse," and the clean-looking unfussy dining room fits right in with that aesthetic. They're open for lunch as well as dinner, and the menu pulls from all over: Dirty rice risotto with smoked duck ham shares appetizer space with iceberg lettuce and clam chowder. For main courses, the rib-eye comes with onion rings; the short ribs (braised in root beer) with parsnips, and the lamb with caramelized cauliflower. (Expect to pay between $40 and $70; Time Hotel, 224 West 49th Street; 212-333-7749)

Kobe Club At Jeffrey Chodorow's entrant in the steakhouse stakes you can order up a tasting flight of Wagyu beef (from all over). The DJ and the lighting may be something of a cliche, but where else do you find thousands of samurai swords hanging from the ceiling? All that, and the food has quite a following, too. (Expect to pay between $60 and $200; 68 West 58th Street; 212-644-5623)