Recently reviewed

May 15, 2008

A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.

Bistro Monet ** 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn; 630-469-4002. For those who love French tradition at reasonable prices, in a room so quiet that one can rediscover the lost art of dinner conversation, Bistro Monet is your new favorite restaurant. Chef/owner Michel Saragueta has turned the former Les Deux Autres (and Les Deux Gros prior to that) into an affordable oasis of country-French charm, with laid-back and friendly service. Recommended: Chicken-liver mousse, turban of sole, skate wing, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible.

Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room—notably a series of gorgeous gilded panels above the bar. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L'Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced—comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l'orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Cooper's Hawk * 15690 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park; 708-633-0200. This novel concept pairs a 300-seat American restaurant and a fully equipped winery that produces more than two dozen distinct varieties. The winery half of the equation functions very well, producing uncomplicated, drinkable and affordable wines with a wide range of flavor profiles. The restaurant half is more problematic; though service is well-informed and the kitchen is fast, too many dishes are saddled with powerful sauces in copious quantities—which are not nearly as wine-friendly as they ought to be. Stick with the simplest preparations, request sauces on the side, and you should do fine. Recommended: Ribeye steak, salmon with mushroom duxelles, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.99-$29.99. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet.

Crofton on Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Since its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton's restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago's finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton's seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Laid-back enough for a casual get-together and sophisticated enough for dress-up, Crofton's satisfies on every possible level. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Fuego ** 17 W. Campbell Ave., Arlington Heights, 847-590-1122. Deftly combining elements of Chicago's top Mexican restaurants (the Adobo Grill guacamole cart, for instance), this Northwest Suburban hotspot manages to satisfy the Tex-Mex neophyte and regional-Mexican aficionado with equal measure (and both groups are likely to enjoy the killer cocktails here). Wednesdays, when live mariachi music is featured, are almost as popular as weekend nights. Recommended: Tamalitos, lamb shank, filet in mole poblano. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted; parties of 6 or more on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.

The Gage *** 24 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, Gage burger, lamb duo, sea bream with oxtail, "French toast" dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.

Holy Mackerel ** Westin Lombard Hotel, 70 Yorktown Center, Lombard; 630-953-3444. The Harry Caray's restaurant group is famous for its Italian specialties and prime steaks, and now, next door to the Lombard Harry Caray's, is this seafood concept, a quiet, modern alternative to its lively sports-bar sibling. But no matter which dining room you're in, you can order from either menu. Recommended: Mussels vindaloo, striped bass, cioppino, coquilles St. Jacques. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16.95-$41.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self parking.

Lockwood *** Palmer House Hilton, 17 E. Monroe St.; 312-917-3404. Giving the Palmer House the gourmet restaurant it has long deserved, Lockwood manages to embrace the hotel's storied past while remaining very much a contemporary concept. Chef Phillip Foss cooks with imagination, humor and considerable skill. The lavishly appointed dining room manages to remain low-key and intimate, and general manager Kirk Alston is an articulate and passionate promoter of the deep wine list. Recommended: "Crab apple," squab breast, prosciutto-wrapped pork, veal trio, banana napoleon. Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch daily. Entree prices: $28-$46. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, discounted self-parking with validation.

Powerhouse ** 215 N. Clinton St.; 312-928-0800. From its handsome, noise-baffling decor to the careful cooking and artistic plating of executive chef John Peters, this West-Loop American restaurant consistently exceeds expectations. The dining room is comfortable despite its long and narrow configuration, spot-on service is eager to please and the addition of Sarah Steele as pastry chef is a real coup. Recommended: Scallops with serrano ham, romaine-heart salad, venison, banana Bavarian plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$43. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Prosecco ** 710 N. Wells St., 312-951-9500. From its cream-colored, candlelit dining room to the regional-Italian cooking of chef/partner Mark Sparacino, this River North newcomer pleases in virtually every respect. Meals begin with a complimentary taste of sparkling wine, a small extravagance that underscores the front room's commitment to top-notch service. If Sparacino's food and Christian Hood's wine list are a bit pricier than average, so be it—they're more than justified by the surroundings, the attentive staff and the quality of the ingredients. Recommended: Softshell crab, risotto crab cakes, orecchiette with mushrooms, veal saltimbocca, scallops in vanilla-prosecco cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Reel Club * 272 Oakbrook Center Drive, Oak Brook, 630-368-9400. Mychael Bonner, who also is executive chef at Di Pescara in Northbrook, oversees this latest Lettuce Entertain You concept, a sophisticated seafooder with an approachable, value-oriented menu. Bonner keeps things pretty simple in the kitchen, though he manages some cute turns on a few well-known dishes; the front of the house can be maddening at times, but the dining room is crowded just about every night. Recommended: Oysters a la rocket, double-dip shrimp, red crab legs, "mounds bar" dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Sixteen *** 401 N. Wabash Ave., 312-588-8000. Given all the chest-thumping and publicity-mongering that has accompanied the creation of its home, the Trump International Hotel & Tower, it wouldn't have ruined my day if Sixteen had turned out to be an overpriced flop. But this dazzling restaurant, oozing with spare-no-expense luxury and boasting riveting city views, lives up to the hype. Australian chef Frank Brunacci fashions an International menu that's rife with muscular, aggressive flavors—yet his completed dishes are full of nuance and depth. Reserved but unstuffy service is a major asset. Recommended: English pea soup, quail, Malaysian-style duck percik, diver scallop "bang bang," Study in Strawberry. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking.

Table Fifty-Two ** 52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith's celebrity, it's very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, ancho pork chop, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.

Ratings key:

OUTSTANDING ****

EXCELLENT ***

VERY GOOD **

GOOD *

SATISFACTORY

UNSATISFACTORY

Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.