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Barbecue madness

Paul Kirk, at last year's barbecue block party

Paul Kirk, the "Baron of Barbecue," and a native of Kansas City, doing what he does best during the second annual Big Apple Block Party in Manhattan last year. (AP PHOTO)

We don't -- or most of us don't, anyway -- have a backyard grill.

What we do have -- for the past two years, anyway -- is a barbecue block party. This year's party, say the organizers, will be bigger (and better organized) than last year's, which is a relief for anyone who remembers the lines. For one thing, it's spread over two days (the 11trh and 12th), and it's on Madison Avenue between 23rd and 26th streets, so there's more room to mingle. For another, they've figured out a way to make paying faster, which should shorten the waiting times.

Pitmasters are coming from the BBQ World big time -- Texas, North Carolina, and St. Louis --to show their stuff in the Big Apple. Live music, and seminars, too. (June 11-12, Madison Square Park. Admission is free; you pay for what you eat. If you want to use the express lines, you can buy a Bubba Fast Pass for $100. Purchase in advance by calling 212-447-7733. Or go to www.bigapplebbq.org)

If, on the other hand, you'd just as soon skip the party, here are some of our favorite BBQ joints around town.

Blue Smoke. Danny Meyer, who grew up in St. Louis, imported his hometown specialty to New York three years ago, and while the start-up was a little rocky, the place settled into its status as a big-town favorite remarkably fast. The menu offfers up a sampler of classic dishes: chicken, pulled pork, brisket and ribs. Sides are just fine, too. And the down-home desserts are worth saving room for. (212-447-7733; 116 E 27th Street)

Daisy Mae BBQ You don't settle down here for dinner. Either you buy your take-out from the store on 11th Avenue or you pick it up at one of the five carts located around the city. There are plenty of people who call the chili the best in the city; the chopped beef brisket sandwich is another favorite. Sides like creamed spinach or sweet potatoes also have a following. (Takeout: 623 11th Avenue; 11:00am - 8:00pm. Mon-Fri. For delivery: 212-977-1500. Carts: 59th Street at Lexington Avenue; 47th Street at Park Avenue; 51st Street at Park Avenue; 50th Street at Sixth Avenue; 40 Wall Street. For more info, go to: daisymaysbbq.com)

Dinosaur BBQ. A recent import from Syracuse, of all places, Dinosaur has built up a loyal following. The slow-smoked ribs are what it's all about. (646 West 131st Street; 212-694-1777)

Pearson's Texas BBQ Before there was Blue Smoke, there was Pearson's. But he was out in Queens then. He's moved into Manhattan, but the British-born pitmaster still believes in keeping things simple, and his fans agree wholeheartedly. The beef brisket gets raves, by the way. (170 East 81st Street; 212-288-2700)

R.U.B. Kansas City's baron of barbecue Paul Kirk opened this place a couple of months ago, bringing his legendary 'cue to the city. Spicy dry-rubbed ribs are one specialty. Another is the deep-fried Oreo served for dessert. (208 West 23rd Street; 212-524-4300)

Virgil's Real Barbecue. Virgil's pig-out actually is a pig-out: ribs, chicken, brisket, pork & Texas link. Also, the hush puppies are to die for. (152 West 44th Street; 212-921-9494; virgilsbbq.com)

Waterfront Ale House Go for the pulled pork. (155 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-522- 3794)