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Where to have a summer brunch

Compiled by Linda Perney

June 2, 2004

French toast for brunch

Whether you're looking for pancakes or something a little more esoteric -- a big bowl of melie pap, say, or tea-smoked salmon -- here's where to go on a summery Sunday.

MANHATTAN

Public This fusion of new British cooking and American style has its devotees. The brunch menu ranges from the traditional fry of two eggs (plus roasted potatoes, mushrooms, tomatoes and bacon) to the more exotic: tea-smoked salmon with poached eggs served with yuzu hollandaise. (210 Elizabeth Street; 212-343-7011; Sun)

Soho Cantina. Particularly good for the morning after the night before: go with the huevos Mexicana, spiced up with plenty of jalapenos. Other choices: salads, quesadillas, huevos rancheros, a hefty burger -- and for those with a sweet tooth, pancakes with plantains and a creamy tequila sauce. (199 Prince Street; 212-598-0303; Sun)

Guastavino's. Okay, so their 15 minutes was up a while ago. Still, the garden, with its big market umbrellas and pretty plantings, is a terrific spot for a summery brunch. The menu inclines to the traditional, with plenty of egg dishes, plus a brioche French toast. But there are also sandwiches and salads, plus a rock shrimp omelette that's highly recommended. Then, again, those flirtinis go down smoothly, too. (409 East 59th Street; 212-980-2455; Sat, Sun)

Jerry's. What's new about this place, you might ask. Just about everything. The Soho stalwart has had a facelift and they've tweaked the menu, too. For weekend brunch, look for omelettes, French toast, salads, sandwiches and all manner of eggs and omelettes. (101 Prince Street; 212-966-9464; Sat., Sun)

BROOKLYN

Shebeen Madiba. So, where else are you going to find mielie pap (that's cornmeal porridge to you) or toast with marmite, or boerewors (a kind of sausage)? Only at Brooklyn's South African restaurant. The above - and more -- are available for brunch, so take a seat beneath an umbrella on the sidewalk, and you may decide you actually like rusks. Otherwise, stick with the scones. (195 Dekalb Avenue; 718-855-9190; Sat., Sun.)

QUEENS

Brick Cafe. This friendly place offers a nice sidewalk cafe where you can while away a Sunday morning with the newspapers. Brunches can start with a Brick salad (hearts of palm/chick peas/ tomatoes/parmesan) or grilled sardines. Mains include omelettes, frittata, French toast, sandwiches, or a selection of pastas. (30-95 33rdt Street, Astoria; 718-267-2735; Sat, Sun)

STATEN ISLAND

American Grill. For big eaters, the dinner menu is available; for those who want to start the day with eggs, there are a choice of omelettes as well as eggs benedict or eggs florentine. For those with a sweet tooth that doesn't quit, there's cheesecake-and-graham-cracker French toast. (Sunday only; 420 Forest Avenue; 718-447-8840; Sun)