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Hearty Winter Fare

Linda Perney | NYNewsday.com

10:49 AM EST, January 9, 2004

To escape the cold, head to Mexico, India, Egypt, Italy, or the Caribbean via these NYC eateries.

MANHATTAN

Dos Caminos. Whether you opt for the original, in the Flatiron District or the spin-off in SoHo, these two cheerful Mexican restaurants offer up good, no-fuss food that will warm up a wintry evening in a flash. Both places, the crowd tends to be upscale and youngish, and the house drinks are potent, which makes for a superb antidote to the post-holidays blahs. (373 Park Avenue South; 212-294-1000; 475 West Broadway; 212277-4300)

Tabla. Who says East is East and West is West? Clearly, Mr. Kipling had no idea of what a marriage of two classical cooking techniques could produce. The food is worth the raves it always gets, and worth the prices, too. But if you're looking to spend a little less, head for the Bread Bar downstairs.(11 Madison Avenue, 212-889-0667)

Carmine's. There are the food snobs who carp about authenticity, and then there are the rest of us. Carmine's is for us, on nights when huge family-style plates of pasta heavy with sauce and meat seem the only way to take the chill out of winter. Big, noisy, and brash, ithe place is only really worth it if you bring along a bunch of friends.(200 West 44th Street; 212-221-3800; 2450 Broadway; 212-362-2200)

Negril. The Jamaican food is superb and the surroundings are relaxed, without the kitsch that seems to pervade most other places. Settle at the bar for a rum punch and snack on a selection of small plates, or take a table and feast on the huge platter of jerk chicken, shrimp, and salmon.(362 West 23rd Street, 212-807-6411; 70 West 3rd Street, 212-477-2804)

Zocalo. The Upper East Side's take on Mexican cooking is appropriately sophisticated. Away from the bar, the dining room's warm orange-tinted walls set a relaxing tone; the staff is helpful and friendly, and the chicken mole is authentic and satisfying. The maragritas aren't bad, either.(174 East 82nd Street; 212-717-7772)

BROOKLYN

Mo-Bay. Fort Greene's classic Jamaican restaurant draws crowds who chow down on authentic island cooking in a small, if busy room. Some say service can be slow, but dishes like oxtail stew, curried goat, and coconut shrimp keep the faithful coming back. Whatever you do, leave room for some of the house's special rummy rum cake.(112 DeKalb Avenue, 718-246-2800; 17 West 125th Street, 212-876-9300)

Alma. Since the place opened a couple of years ago, it has been a prime destination for neighborhood types who rave about its authentic Mexican cooking. Then, there's the view, clear over New York harbor. And the downstairs bar, with its relaxed vibe. What more can you ask for? (187 Columbia Street; 718-643-5400)

India Passage. The minute you walk through the door of this traditional-looking restaurant, your appetite goes into high gear. Spicy aromas telegraph the fact that there's a sure hand in the kitchen, and the classic Indian cooking doesn't disappoint. Neither does polite service or a relaxed neighborhood attitude. (7407 Third Avenue, 718-833-2160)

QUEENS

Jackson Diner. Queens' veritable Indian restaurant keeps on going, with a menu that encompasses all the classic favorites prepared to the demanding standards of a clientele that never lets up. The surroundings are nothing to write home about, but it's the food you came for. (37-47 74th Street, Jackson Heights, 718-672-1232)

Mombar. The chef is the artist here -- in more ways than one. Aside from presiding over the kitchen, he presided over the decor, a dazzling collection of mosaics made of everything from old tiles to smashed teacups. The menu is Egyptian, with an emphasis on slow-cooked stews, tagines, couscous, and the like -- perfect for the coldest winter night. (25-22 Steinway Street, Astoria, 718-726-2356)

BRONX

Roberto's. One of the borough's classic pasta places, Roberto's offers up enormous portions of perfectly sauced dishes in a casual atmosphere. This is great for families or a group of friends who want to relax over a fortifying dinner but don't mind a fairly high noise level. (632 East 186th Street; 718-733-9503)

STATEN ISLAND

Adobe Blues. When the locals are looking to relax over a casual meal, they head for this Mexican place. There are 200 or so beers to choose from (plus the margaritas), and the fajitas, tamales, and burritos bring a hint of Mexican warmth to winter. (63 Lafayette Avenue, 718-720-2583)