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Pumpkin season: where to indulge a seasonal taste

By Alexis Korman | Special to amNewYork

10:09 AM EDT, October 24, 2007

Pumpkin appetizer from davidburkeanddonatella.

So much more than a squash, the colorful pumpkin is now in season. The familiar orange gourd, thought to originate in North America, lends itself well to a variety of preparations, both savory and sweet. And though I¹m sure you¹ll still crave classic pumpkin pie, here¹s where you can taste pumpkin in other culinary creations.

Zoe Townhouse The owners of Zoe in Soho, Stephen and Thalia Loffredo, revamped the former Jovia space to open this warm American restaurant on the Upper East Side. Chef Matthew Zappoli offers a roasted pumpkin risotto with three cheeses and spiced pepitas, available on a special Thanksgiving prix fixe menu (three courses are offered for $65). However, you don¹t have to wait till turkey day to try pumpkin in dessert form: the restaurant offers diners a silky pumpkin mousse ($8). 135 E 62nd St;(212) 752-6000

Primehouse NY This recently opened, modern Gramercy steakhouse has 5,600 sq. ft of space and an onsite aging room tiled with Himalayan rock salt. In addition to all-Black Angus beef, you¹ll find hearty lamb, pork chops, and surf and turf on the menu. If you still have room after devouring your steak, try the pumpkin soufflé ($12) accented with pumpkin puree, cinnamon, and other spices of the season, served with a side of vanilla ice cream. (381 Park Avenue South; 212.824.2600)

Kampuchea Restaurant This l.e.s. gem offers Cambodian cuisine with a twist, all in a warm dining room featuring exposed brick walls and a communal table. Among the flavorful offerings created by Chef-Owner Ratha Chau, you can find a Lemongrass smoked duck breast ($14) in a pumpkin puree. (78 Rivington St; 212-529-3901)

BabyCakes NYC This charming little bakery substitutes agave nectar, garbanzo/fava bean flour, fresh fruit purees, and coconut oil to create surprisingly delicious, vegan baked goods, including cupcakes, cinnamon buns and cookies perfect for those with food allergies. You¹d never know from tasting the pumpkin spice loaf ($3/slice; $28/loaf) that it is gluten, wheat, dairy, egg and soy free. (248 Broome Street, 212-677-5047)

Insieme Located in the Michelangelo Hotel, this upscale Italian restaurant combines the traditional with the contemporary to dazzling effect. Chef Marc Canora offers a first course of Nova Scotia lobster served with kabocha squash soup, smoked bacon, and pickled pumpkin (5 course tasting menu, $85; a la carte, $21). For dessert, Insieme¹s pastry chef, Amadou Ly, makes a Pumpkin Tart ($11) with huckleberry emulsion and chocolate candied pecans. (777 Seventh Ave, 212-582-1310)

davidburke & donatella This Upper East Side restarant, created by Chef David Burke and Donatella Arapia, features a sleek white stone bar. This fall, Chef de Cuisine Eric Hara has created a whimsical pumpkin appetizer ($16): a roasted and hollowed mini pumpkin is filled with sautéed prawns and hand made, pumpkin-pecan pie ravioli, finished with sage and brown butter. Those with money to burn can try the Pumpkin Martini Hennessy XO ($40), made with pumpkin juice and served with a side of toasted pumpkin seeds. (133 East 61st Street; 212-813-2121)