Text size:

A weekend in Essex, Connecticut

Linda Perney

A guest rioom at the Griswold Inn in Essex, Connecticut

It takes about five minutes to fall in love with the Connecticut River town of Essex. But you wouldn't be the first to be so smitten. A few years back, it was named the best small town in America, and while we -as New Yorkers - wouldn't presume to judge a small town, its charms are obvious to even the most jaded eye.

To start with, there is a splendid collection of nineteenth-century buildings, reminders of when this was a shipbuilding town - an industry that stretched back to the War of 1812, when the British sent troops to burn the place down. After the war, Essex settled back to building, and produced many of the clipper ships that sailed out of New York, bound for Europe or the China trade.

Strolling the quiet, leafy streets, you'll find plenty of historic buildings, or you can take a walk along Main Street for a little shopping. If nature is your weakness, plan a visit in February or March, when the eagles return to nest: The town sponsors an eagle festival, and boats go out on the river so you can get an up-close look at the birds.

WHERE TO STAY: The Griswold Inn has been in the business of cosseting guests for more than two centuries, so they have it down pretty well. The 31 guest rooms are nicely decorated with antiques and wallpapers; some have wide-plank floors, and some have fireplaces. Set aside some time to gawk at the paintings on the walls in the public rooms - the place houses one of the best collections of maritime art in the country.

The inn is also known for its dining room, which dispenses a generous hunt breakfast on Sunday morning as well as dinner all week long. The menu concentrates on freshness, and changes all the time; expect to pay about $60 per person for a three-course meal. If you're not ready to sink into bed right after dinner, head to the tap room for a convivial after-dinner drink. (36 Main Street; 860-767-1776. Room rates: $100-$400 per night)

WHERE TO EAT: The Copper Beech Inn, in Ivoryton, gets raves for its seasonal menus. The main dining room is tres swank, with a menu that includes entrees like grilled duck breast with foie gras, pan-seared diver scallops, and rack of lamb. (Expect to pay between $75 and $100 per person for a three-course dinner; 46 Main Street, Ivoryton; 888-809-2056)