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A weekend in Newport

Boats in the harbor at Newport, Rhode Island

There was a time when spending the season in Newport meant serious money: Among the summer people were the Astors and the Vanderbilts and assorted society names up from Manhattan. In the 1880s and '90s this was a place of fabulous wealth; the "cottages" along Bellevue Avenue remain, a catalogue of hyperexcited Robber Baron tastes. To get an overall look at the mansions -- and to admire the views out over the water -- take the Cliff Walk.

These days, your blood doesn't have to run quite as blue to spend a weekend here. The likes of you and I can hole up in one of the many inns that have reclaimed the luxury of yester year, and if the romance of the city's past is a draw, many of the historic houises are open for visits, among them, the Vanderbilts' Elms, and the famous Marble House, built for yet another scion of the Vanderbilt clan. For information on visiting the mansions, go to www.newportmansions.org.

If, on the other hand, you'd rather live in the present, there's great sailing -- Newport is considered the yachting capital of America. If you want to get out on the water, there are sailing tours of the harbor as well as speedboat cruises. Not to forget, of course, there's also just plain swimming at area beaches, or fishing aboard one of the many party boats that ply these waters.

WHERE TO STAY: Choose among the area's historic B & Bs at www.14bestbnbsofnewport.com, which lists many properties right in town, convenient to the historic district as well as the shopping and restaurant scene. Expect to pay upwards of $225 per night, if you're planning to stay for the weekend; weekday rates are lower.

WHERE TO EAT: 22 Bowen's Wharf is a fine place for harborside views and seafood as well as steaks (for which the place is best known). Not cheap, though. That prime porterhouse will set you back about $45 (Bowen's Wharf; 401-849-2120). Looking for something a little cheaper? The Brick Alley Pub is a local favorite -- crowded and loud. Main courses at dinner range from $17 to $30, and the stuffies -- Rhode Island's favorite stuffed quahogs -- come highly recommended. (140 Thames Street; 401-849-6334).