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Don't refuse, just infuse

By Karen Tina Harrison | Special to amNewYork

November 9, 2007

Bao 111, infused sake, owner Chris Johnson (Erin Gleeson / November 9, 2007)

Infused vodka is so 2006. In this trend-a-minute city, the latest booze craze is infused sake and shochu. The word may sound like a science project, but "infused" simply means "flavored with fresh ingredients like fruit or spices." And the Big Apple's bartenders and restaurateurs are making their own sake and shochu infusions right on their bar shelves.

The results are in -- and they're delicious. Jonathan Pogash, a cocktail guru at hotspots like The Campbell Apartment, says that "for adventurous New York drinkers, infusions kick sake and shochu up a notch. You can sip them straight or make saketinis with them." And with shochu's higher proof -- the stuff is sometimes called "Korean vodka"-- you definitely get a nice boozy buzz. Choose your weapon!

One of the first local places to infuse sake in-house was the East Village's Bao 111 (111 Ave. C, 212-254-7773). Owner Chris Johnson, a sake expert and tastings judge, says "an amazing lemongrass tea in London inspired me to start experimenting with adding stuff to sake." Today, Bao 111's roster of infused sakes includes cucumber-rosemary, grapefruit-galangal, strawberry-kiwi and simple, perfect pineapple. Johnson offers them warm, on the rocks, in pitchers or mixed into saketini cocktails.

Over in the gallery-thick High Line nabe, Izakaya Ten (207 Tenth Ave., 212-627-7777) serves its infused shochus in artsy Japanese ceramics. Asian cherry and plum coexist with cool creations like the minty vanilla-shiso, and for the undecided, owner/bartender Lannie Ahn furnishes three-flavor tasting flights.

You'd expect an exclusive flavor in Tribeca, right? EN Shochu Bar (435 Hudson St. 212-647-9196) offers up black sugar, a Japanese delicacy "imported from one tiny spot in Japan," says EN's Yukari Pratt.

Hipster Williamsburgh is onto infusions, naturally. Bozu, a sushi bar and lounge, features no fewer than 20 infused shochus including lychee, ginger and the bright-tasting tomato (296 Grand St., 718-384-7770).

In Astoria, chef-owner Gary Anza of Bistro 33 (19-33 Ditmars Blvd., 718-721-1933) infuses his sakes in Papaya King-type vats that contrast with the drink's elegant taste. Along with intense strawberry, kiwi and pineapple are seasonal picks like the current roasted pumpkin.

Like all good drinking trends, this one has a DIY angle. Chris Johnson says you can infuse sake (or shochu) at home this way:
1) Buy a gallon of cheap sake or shochu and drink some off the top.
2) Peel, chop and add about two cups of fruit. Pineapple, peach and apple work well. Cap the bottle and refrigerate.
3) It will reach full flavor 3 to 7 days later. Keep tasting it.
4) When you like the strength, strain out the fruit.
5) Have a party.

For More Infused Sake and Shochu

Riingo, 205 E. 46th St., 212-867-4200 (sake and shochu)
Bao Noodles, 391 Second Ave, 212-725-7770 (sake)
Counter, 105 First Ave., 212-982-5630 (sake)
Bonjoo, 107 First Ave., 212-505-7974 (shochu)
Tailor, 525 Broome St., 212-334-5182 (shochu)