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A weekend in Saugerties

Deborah Lynn Blumberg

7:15 PM EDT, August 31, 2007

With its old-time downtown and mix of eclectic restaurants and specialty food stores, Saugerties is both a history lover's and epicurean's delight. On the banks of the Hudson River, just east of the Catskill Forest Preserve, Saugerties is also a perfect, tranquil base for nature buffs to explore the area's mountains and waterfalls. Quaint bed and breakfasts and farm stands dot winding country roads, while antiques stores, coffee shops and bookshops line Main Street downtown.

GETTING THERE: Take I-87 north to Route 32 Exit 2 toward Saugerties. Turn right onto NY-212/NY-32, which becomes Ulster Avenue and then bear right on Market Street. Turn left onto Main Street. For visitor information, call the Saugerties Area Chamber of Commerce at 845-246- 3788, or go to discoversaugerties.com.

ATTRACTIONS: The Saugerties Lighthouse, 168 Lighthouse Dr. (845-247- 0656; saugertieslighthouse.com), is a red brick structure, built in 1869, that's also a bed and breakfast. The operational lighthouse can be reached by boat or an easy half-mile nature trail. Open weekends and holidays Memorial Day to Labor Day, from 2 to 5 p.m., and other times by appointment. Rooms are $160 weekdays and $175 weekends, breakfast included.

Vinnie's Farm Market, 3689 Route 32 (845-246-0908; vinniesfarmmarket.com), is a family-owned and -operated roadside market that sells homemade tomato sauce, pesto, spreads and pickled and marinated vegetables. The family uses its own Italian and Sicilian recipes and jars products by hand. The market also carries locally grown fruits and vegetables, pies, fruit butters and apple cider doughnuts.

At 260 feet, Kaaterskill Falls is said to be the highest two-tiered waterfall in New York State. The rocky but well-marked trail that leads to the base of the falls is a mile hike round-trip. The entrance to the path is off Route 23A, three miles west of Palenville, a short drive north of Saugerties. Take Route 32 north to route 23A west. Parking for the falls can be found in a small lot off the side of the road just past the falls.

Smoke House of the Catskills, 724 Rte. 212 (845- 246-8767), is half butcher shop, half gourmet food shop that makes tasty beef jerky and sells a variety of sausages and top-quality meats. The shop also carries a wide variety of German food products, including sauerkrauts, fruit syrups and dozens of boxes of German cookies and candies. Open Thursday to Saturday, 8 a.m. 6 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.4 p.m.

Main Street is chock-full of antiques shops, bookstores and quaint coffee shops, and so makes for a perfect afternoon stroll. Saugerties Antiques Gallery, 104 Partition St. (845-246-2323; saugertiesantiquesgallery.com), sells accessories and furniture. Around the corner, The Saugerties Antiques Center, 220 Main St. (845-246-8234), is a cooperative of 20 antiques dealers.

WHERE TO STAY The Kaaterskill Bed and Breakfast, 424 High Falls Rd. Extension, Catskill (518-678- 0026; thekaaterskill.com), is tucked off a quiet country road about 20 minutes from Saugerties and offers sweeping views of the Catskills. The main building is a restored Dutch barn with three luxury suites, each with a Jacuzzi and fireplace; rates from $155 to $175.

The Howard Johnson, 2764 Rte. 32, close to I-87 (845-246- 9511; hojo.com), has an indoor heated pool. Standard rooms range from $69 to $120. The Comfort Inn, 2790 Rte. 32 (845-246- 1565; comfort inns.com.), is also near the highway. Rooms range from $89 to $139.

The quaint and centrally located Inn at Café Tamayo, 89 Partition St. (845-246-9371; cafetamayo.com), in operation since 1864, is downtown and offers off-street parking for guests. The inn's four rooms are decorated with area antiques and Hudson Valley artwork. Rates from $110 to $160.

WHERE TO EAT: Café Mezzaluna, 626 Rte. 212 (845-246-5306), is a must stop for brunch with home-style food and live music. Sunday brunch specials from $6.50 to $8.95, range from strawberry pancakes to paninis.

New World Cooking Co., 1411 Rte. 212 (845-246-0900), offers eclectic dishes such as Cuban pot roast and Thai curry, made with organic and locally raised ingredients. Entrees from $13.95 to $32.95

Café Tamayo, 89 Partition St. (845-246-9371), in the heart of downtown, features ethnically influenced American cuisine, and a wine list that offers a wide range of New York State bottles. Diners can opt to eat in the cafe's charming garden. Entrees from $15 to $25.

Locals like Lachmann's Pastry Shop, 264 Main St. (845-246-4361), for its cookies and other baked goods, and the Hudson Valley Dessert Co., 87 Partition St. (845-246-1545), for the biscotti.