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A weekend on the Vineyard

Bill Bleyer | STAFF WRITER

Boats at Vineyard Haven. (Betty Lowry)

Martha's Vineyard is only three and a half miles off the southern coast of Cape Cod, but it's worlds away from the mainland. Despite increasing development and traffic, there are a lot of quiet getaway spots on the 87.5-square-mile island, with many secluded beaches. There also is plenty to do in the three principal commercial centers, Edgartown, the oldest European settlement, Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs.

The Vineyard is reached by several ferries; schedules and fares and general visitor information can be accessed at mvy.com. The only car ferry runs from Woods Hole, Mass., to Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs (summers only). To reach the Steamship Authority (steamshipauthority.com) car ferry, take I-95 north to I-195 east toward Providence/Cape Cod. Merge onto MA-25, which becomes MA-28 south. Stay on this into Locust Street, which becomes Woods Hole Road. Turn left onto Crane Street and right onto Cowdry Road following signs to the ferry terminal.

Outdoor recreation is the main reason most people go to the Vineyard, as locals call it, and heading the list are the number of public beaches open to visitors. For the rough surf of the Atlantic Ocean try South Beach State Park in Edgartown. The one-mile-long Katama Beach has lifeguards, white sand and ample parking. Menemsha Public Beach in Menemsha is next to the harbor and has food, restrooms, calm water and great sunsets. It's perfect for families with young children. Oak Bluffs Town Beach, adjacent to the town wharf, offers miles of white sand and swimming.

Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge (508-627-7689), open 24 hours, on the far side of Dike Bridge on Chappaquiddick Island, has a seven-mile beach with great fishing, hiking and nature trails and the 1801 Cape Poge Lighthouse. Guided tours of the refuge and lighthouse, available through Columbus Day weekend, cost $20-$35 for adults and $12-$18 for children 12-18.

Camp Meeting Grounds (508-693-0525; mvcma.org) had its first meeting in 1835, held in Trinity Park in Oak Bluffs by Methodist congregations coming from the mainland. "Society tents" later were replaced with wooden cottages that are still used. The Cottage Museum, open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. and Sunday 1 a.m.-4 p.m. during the summer, houses a typical interior and offers a history of camp life. Admission is $2 for adults and 50 cents for children 3-12.

The centerpiece of the meeting ground is the Trinity Park Tabernacle, the largest wrought-iron and wood structure in the United States. In addition to services, there are concerts and special events, such as art shows.

The Flying Horses Carousel (508-693-9481; mvpreservation.org/carousel.html) on Oak Bluffs Avenue is the nation's oldest continuously operating carousel. The 1876 ride has 20 handcrafted horses with real horse hair. Rides are $1.50 from 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily through early September.

Aquinnah Lighthouse (508-645-2211), on Lighthouse Road in Gay Head, is open mostly on weekends; hours vary. Views are spectacular. Call for operating times.

Martha's Vineyard Museum (508-627-4441; mvmuseum.org), in the 18th-century Thomas Cooke House, has 11 rooms depicting various aspects of the island's history. The museum, 59 School St., Edgartown, is open Tuesday-Saturday from 10 a.m.-5 p.m.. Admission is $7 for adults, $6 for seniors and $4 for children 6-15.

WHERE TO STAY
Most lodging is found in bed and breakfasts and inns; there are few chain hotels and motels. One exception is The Clarion Martha's Vineyard (800-922-3009; choicehotels.com) at 227 Upper Main St. in Edgartown. Each room has a microwave, refrigerator and high-speed internet access. Rates range from $279-$359, with continental breakfast.

Colonial Inn (800-627-4701; colonialinnmvy.com), 38 N. Water St., Edgartown, opened in 1911, has a small covered deck on the fourth floor, overlooking the harbor. The 28-units, with rates from $250-$425, are all smoke-free.

Harbor View Hotel (800-225-6005; harbor-view.com), 131 North Water St., Edgartown, was built in 1891 and overlooks the Edgartown Lighthouse and Chappaquiddick Island. The 130 units range from $350 to $1,050 for a three-room suite.

Thorncroft Inn (800-332-1236; thorncroftinn.com), 460 Main St., Vineyard Haven, is set on 2.5 acres. The four-star hotel has 14 rooms with fireplaces and antique furnishings, from $275-$525, with full breakfast.

The Dockside Inn, 9 Circuit Ave. Ext., Oak Bluffs (508-693-2966; vineyardinns.com), is a 22-room Victorian inn opposite the ferry dock and has a big front porch on each of its two levels. The 22 rooms come with continental breakfast for $185 to $225.

WHERE TO EAT
Atria, 137 Main St., Edgartown (508-627-5850; atriamv.com). Entrees, from $30-$48, are as creative as their names, such as Cod is Great, Cod is Good, a prosciutto-wrapped cod with lobster whipped potatoes.

David Ryans, 11 Water St., Edgartown (508-627-4100; davidryans.com). Upstairs is upscale-casual, featuring meat, seafood and pasta dishes from $25-$38. Downstairs is a casual pub-like eatery serving salads, sandwiches and entrees from $8-$26.

The Black Dog Cafe, 509 State Rd., Vineyard Haven (508-696-8190; theblackdog.com), offers fresh breads, chowders, sandwiches and salads all under $10. A 1914 rail car sits outside the cafe.

Le Grenier, 96 Main St., Vineyard Haven, (508-693-4906; legrenierrestaurant.com), offers French food served by candlelight. The $26-$36 entrees include seafood, steaks and poultry.

The Sweet Life Café (508-696-0200; sweetlifemv.com) at 63 Circuit Ave. in Oak Bluffs is housed in a restored Victorian home. The menu changes continually with entrees from $28-$44, served in the main dining room or the garden.