Grand Central Oyster Bar

BY ERICA MARCUS | erica.marcus@newsday.com

October 5, 2007

Clams with linguine and rock shrimp at the Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant. Grand Central Terminal, NYC. (Newsday/Ari Mintz)

There is no other restaurant in New York - nor in the world - like the Grand Central Oyster Bar.

In 1913, when the Oyster Bar opened beneath the tracks at Grand Central Terminal, there were plenty of other "oyster palaces" serving raw bivalves and plain-cooked seafood to throngs of diners in a bustling, workaday setting. Today, fine seafood has become the province of such superstar chefs as Eric Ripert (Le Bernardin), Laurent Tourondel (BLT Fish) and David Pasternack (Esca), who bring an undisputed artistry to their catch.

But it is an increasingly rare pleasure to enjoy top-notch fish in a less rarified setting such as this.

Which isn't to say that The Oyster Bar is a joint. Indeed, its vast expanse, period fixtures and famous tiled, vaulted ceiling make it one of New York's most spectacular restaurants. But it has an unmistakably democratic vibe that comes partly from its diverse clientele and partly from the scores of hardworking employees whose skills and energy keep the place running. There are the guys shucking oysters and clams like human machines, the guys filling orders for pan roasts and stews, the servers running from the tables to the raw bar to the drinks bar to the serpentine lunch counter to the kitchen, where they call in their own orders on a microphone and are tasked with garnishing their own plates.

Under the direction of executive chef Sandy Ingber, the Oyster Bar's menu changes every day and generally offers about two dozen varieties of raw oysters and as many varieties of "today's catch." There are exemplary specimens of both New England and Manhattan clam chowder, cold, fried and smoked seafood platters, cooked oysters and clams, lobsters any way you want them and a list of hundreds of well-chosen wines. Desserts, among them Key lime pie, chocolate mousse and hot fudge sundaes, are old-fashioned and good.

The seafood is great. On a recent dinner I had perfect oysters (Moonstone from Rhode Island and Hama Hama from Washington State) followed by a big, fat filet of pan-fried black cod. The medley of steamed vegetables whose moisture seeped under the previously crisp fish did seem to have wandered over from another decade; perhaps it is time that the Oyster Bar rethink its accompaniments. But I can't say that failure to do so will prevent me from returning again and again.

GRAND CENTRAL OYSTER BAR & RESTAURANT

Grand Central Terminal

42nd Street and Park Avenue

212-490-6650

HOURS: Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday noon to 9:30 p.m.

CUISINE: Classic American seafood

CHECK: Appetizers, $4.95 to $15.50; mains, $17.95 to $42.95; desserts, $4.50 to $8.50

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: At the entrance to Grand Central on 42nd Street and Vanderbilt Avenue, there is a ramp to the lower level.

ALSO IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD ...

Since its restoration in 1998, Grand Central has become a retail and culinary hub. Learn about the history of the terminal (not station) during a guided tour (212-340-2345).

Along with a wide variety of upscale mall shops, the terminal is home to the Grand Central Market, a European-style "food hall" with a dozen establishments including Li-Lac Chocolates, Murray's Cheese, Penzeys Spices and Wild Edibles seafood market.

The lower Dining Concourse offers many casual dining options, among them Manhattan Chili Co., Ciao Bella Gelateria, Junior's, Little Pie Company and Zócalo Mexican Bar & Restaurant.

On the balcony level, overlooking the main concourse, are three elegant restaurants: Métrazur, Charlie Palmer's sleek American brasserie (212-687-4600), Cipriani Dolci, featuring Northern Italian cuisine (212-973-0999), and Michael Jordan's Steak House (212-655-2300).

Before dinner - or afterward - you can enjoy a drink at the Campbell Apartment, formerly the private salon of 1920's railroad tycoon, John W. Campbell (212-953-0409).

Parking is available on East 44th Street between Madison and Vanderbilt avenues and on Park Avenue near 40th Street.