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The New Classics

February 22, 2005

The new classics: salads, pizza, burgers, steak

There are newer takes on old favorites all the time. Herewith, we present a guide to ten restaurants all over town who have put a new spin on tradition.

Rare. Build a better burger, no matter what your taste, whether it's for foie gras, tuna, bison, veggie, or classic beef. Toppings include truffle butter, caramelized onions, grilled portobello, or old-fashioned American cheese. Sides? Just what you'd expect: fries and more fries (including sweet potato) as well as onion rings and slaw. If you'd rather skip the burger, there are salads and soups. To go with whatever you're eating, there are shakes and a a good selection of imported beers. (Shelburne Hotel, 303 Lexington Avenue; 212-481-1999)

LCB Brasserie. What was once La Cote Basque has morphed into a lively brasserie on the order of downtown's Pastis and Balthazar. Gone are the formalities associated with haute dining -- although the service is still fine. The house still turns out some of its signature dishes, among them, the quenelles nantua and a foie gras terrine. But there are earthier dishes, too: pigs' trotters; roast chicken; and steak frites, bien sur. Prix-fixe: $39 at dinner, $28 at lunch. (60 West 55th Street; 212-688-6525 )

Silverleaf Tavern. It's not your father's tavern, unless he regularly feasted on macadamia nut stir-fry or french fries with truffle aioli. Still, the place is friendly and relaxed, as a tavern should be, and it's a nice place to stop for a drink and a bite after work. The menu offers standbys like grilled hanger steak (paired with a "knish" the likes of which you'll never find on a cart). For those who want fish, there's salmon or striped bass and Long Island duck for poultry fanciers. (43 East 38th Street; 212-973-2550 )

Coast. The newest sibling to the Downtown fish places Fresh and Shore, Coast is simple, straightforward, and unpretentious. The menu offers salads, grilled fish, chowders, and a raw selection at both lunch and dinnert. And, of course, there's the lobster roll. (110 Liberty Street; 212-962-0136)

Angon on the Sixth. They call it an 'Indian Culinary Den,' but no amount of silliness conceals the fact that this is the new lair of Mina Avad, late proprietor of Mina Restaurant in Sunnyside. The faithful used to trek out there in droves for Avad's take on subcontinental cuisine; now they don't have to go any further than Curry Row. (320 East Sixth Street; 212-260-8229)

BROOKLYN
Bouillabaisse 126. Located in what is shaping up as a new restaurant row near Columbia Street, Bouillabaisse is the latest incarnation of Neil Ganic's fish restaurant, which used to be on Atlantic Avenue. Crab cakes, poached cod, mussels -- even lamb shank -- put in appearances. But the standout is the namesake fish stew crammed with shrimp, lobster, scallops, and fish all bathed in a saffrony broth. (126 Union Street; 718-855-4405)

Applewood. Slow-cooked organic, locally grown ingredients. If that sounds like a recipe for pretentiousness, think again. The menu changes almost daily, but what you'll find is New American cooking with an inventive twist. Venison; roast duck breast; poached or roasted fish; and, for those who eschew meat and fish, there's always a vegetarian dish. (501 11th Street; 718-768-2044 )

Franny's. Brooklyn pizza lovers have a new place to fight over: Where, exactly, does Franny's fit into the pantheon of L & B, Grimaldi's, and Totonno? The thin-crusted pies come with toppings like tomato/garlic/chili/olives; fennel salami; and mozzarella/ricotta/gorgonzola/fontina, among others. The place is laid-back, with the pizza oven the main decorative element. Be prepared for families and groups. (295 Flatbush Avenue; 718-230-0221)

QUEENS
Le Sans Souci. The menu offers the old favorites: onion soup, nicoise salad, steak, roast duck. But the place is crowded, and the service is friendly and there's a reason those dishes have become classics: They're just plain good. (44-09 Broadway, Astoria; 718-728-2733)

Cup. This new take on a classic coffee shop/diner offers all the favorites of the genre: meat loaf, chicken pot pie, sandwiches, omelettes, burgers, and so on. They're open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (naturally), but they're also open all night Fridays and Saturdays. Delivery, too. ( 35-01 36th Street, Astoria; 718-937-2322 )