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Late night

P.J. Clarke, a classic midtown hangout (Christie M. Farriella)

In the season that never sleeps, you need a restaurant that never sleeps. Or at least one that does with the least amount of shut-eye possible. Here, 10 of our favorite places that keep the kitchen open till all hours.

Corner Bistro. The burgers are as good as they ever were at this old-timey Village hangout. And they're available till 3 am every day. And they're cheap. (Burgers and sandwiches: $4.75-$6.50; open till 3:30 am daily; 331 West 4th Street; 212-242-9502)

Knickerbocker. If you're looking for something really substantial, the Knick offers its full menu till closing time (1 am during the week; 2 am Friday and Saturday). That means you can share a T-bone steak, or tuck into a good-sized plate of spaghetti. Otherwise, the burgers and crabcakes are just fine, too. (Entrees: $15.95-$36 per person for the steak; burgers, $13.25; 33 University Place; 212-228-8490)

L'Express. They're open all night, and they stay pretty busy. The menu is, as you might expect, heavily French-accented: Croque Monsieur, Tripe, onion soup, are all available around the clock. But if you wander in between the hours of midnight and 6 am, you can do yourself proud with a steak and a hefty portion of frites. (Steak frites, $20.95; 249 Park Avenue South; 212-254-5858)

P.J. Clarke. MIdtown's classic pub keeps it going till 3 am daily. The best thing on the menu is the superlative burger (side it with the home fries). But there's a raw bar, and people swear by the crabcakes. (Burgers: $8.90-$10.50; 915 Third Avenue; 212-317-1616)

Blue Ribbon. If you're feeling really flush, there's the Blue Ribbon Royale, a seafood platter in the grand style: oysters, clams, lobster, shrimp, crab, and caviar, for a mere $132. But if you're looking to spend a little less, there's plenty for you, too: burgers, fried chicken, salads. And if you can't get through the night without a bowl of matzoh ball soup, well, they have that, too. (Open till 4 am; entrees: $17.50-$28.50; 97 Sullivan Street; 212-274-0404)

The Diner. This is kind of what you'd expect of a place called the Diner in the heart of the meatpacking district:: lots of loud music, service that ranges from indolent to barely there and a menu heavy on retro classics. There are burgers, fried chicken, steak, and good breakfasts available all day -- and night, too. (Burgers: $8.95-$10.95; breakfast: $7.95-$11.95. Open till 6 am on weekends; 44 Ninth Avenue; 212-627-2230)

BROOKLYN

Bar Tabac. The interior looks like every other Frenchified bistro in town. And the menu is about the same as the others', too. But the burgers are good, and the fries are tasty; in addition, there are steak, paella, pasta, and salads. (Open till 1 am; entrees: $12.95-$18.95; 128 Smith Street; 718-923-0918)