July 6, 2009
Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn: City Living among old and new
A woman and child make their way down the streets of Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. (Phil S. Kropoth / October 1, 2008)
As the F or G train transitions to the elevated tracks after leaving the Carroll Street station, the first thing many straphangers notice are the unusually expansive gardens sprawling out in front of the surrounding brownstones.
Fenced in by iron gates, brimming with lush foliage and decorated with small statues, they lend Carroll Gardens its characteristic blend of stateliness and serenity.
This unique layout originated in the mind of Richard Butts, who in 1846 envisioned an elegant neighborhood with spacious yards and narrow streets.
These 'gardens' -- along with the Revolutionary War veteran Charles Carroll -- would later be the inspiration for the naming of the area during a period of revival in the 1960s.
Before it was known by its present name, Carroll Gardens was considered part of Red Hook, with many of the local Irish and Italian men working in the nearby shipyards and docks.
In the first half of the 20th century, the Italian population swelled as the Irish population dwindled, and the area became known primarily as an Italian neighborhood.
With the construction of the BQE, which began in the 1930s, Red Hook was separated from the neighboring areas. Unhappy with their now-fractured community, longtime residents began moving out.
They were soon replaced by young professionals drawn to the area's historic charm and proximity to Manhattan. At first, this upset longtime residents who objected to the newbies' indifference to the close-knit community they had created. However, that didn't stop residents from coming together to help revive the neighborhood, which included giving it a new name.
Carroll Gardens has undergone gentrification in recent years as more young professionals -- many from well-to-do families -- have settled in the area.
Smith Street, once deserted and even dangerous, has become a happening strip of bars, restaurants and design showrooms.
Evidence of the original Italian community still exists, however, with many delis, bakeries and restaurants continuing to serve long-timers and new neighbors alike. Similarly, block parties, street fairs, stoop sales and farmers markets -- as well as a shared appreciation for the neighborhood's architecture and rich history -- has been bringing residents together.
Some residents feel, though, that the area lacks overall diversity.
"It's missing that diverse element that makes other Brooklyn neighborhoods like Kensington and Flatbush so stimulating," said one resident who would only give her name as Amy. "There is a strange lack of people who aren't white in this neighborhood. And it's too bad."
MAP/BOUNDARIES
Carroll Gardens is defined by Degraw Street to the north, Hoyt Street (between Fifth Street and Degraw Street) and Smith Street (between the Gowanus Expressway and Fifth Street) to the east, the Gowanus Expressway to the south, and the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway to the west.
TO EAT
For the most part, Carroll Gardens' healthy flock of restaurants fall into two categories: old-timey Italian restaurants cooking up all things red sauce, and slick up-market restaurants with prices approaching those in Manhattan. Luckily, there are a few restaurants that offer something in between.
Eton
Don't let the oddly sterile décor put you off. This dumpling kitchen's plump, steaming hot little moneybags stuffed with chicken, pork or lentils are well worth the visit. There's also Hawaiian-style shaved ice in exotic flavors, topped with rare delights like condensed milk and Fluff.
205 Sackett St. 718-222-2999
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