During the epic battle of Long Island in August 1776, George Washington hoodwinked the British by ferrying his troops to Manhattan from what was then called the Town of Brooklyn, leaving an empty campsite behind. Since then, escapism has moved in the opposite direction, with Manhattanites seeking respite in the city's original suburb --Brooklyn Heights.
When steam-propelled ferries shortened the trip across the East River in the mid-19th century, Brooklyn Heights became the haven for Wall Street types it remains today. While the construction of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges and the introduction of the IRT subway line at the turn of the century diminished the neighborhood's cachet somewhat, the area has a long history of playing host to suits seeking brownstones and privacy.
Brooklyn Heights has maintained its historic charm and dearth of high rises in large part thanks to the area's designation as the city's first historic district in 1965, a measure taken to prevent Robert Moses from ramming the BQE through the neighborhood. Much to Moses' dismay, the double-decker highway was relegated to the sidelines of the area's eponymous heights instead. Much to the residents' dismay, Moses transformed the waterfront stretch sheltering the neighborhood from smog and noise into a public promenade, effectively snatching away their exclusive claim to the coveted view across the river.
The focal point of the neighborhood, the Brooklyn Heights Promenade has always afforded a postcard-perfect view. Upon exiting his carriage on the area's waterfront crest in 1864, Abraham Lincoln declared, "There may be finer views than this in the world, but I don't believe it."
At the time, the expanse of private gardens was a popular destination for locals to see and be seen while "promenading." Now the public space is filled with joggers, tourists, and Brooklyn Heights residents taking advantage of the area's greatest asset.
The neighborhood's uniquely quaint and stand-alone feel has attracted a varied cast of characters over the years, from Jehovah's Witnesses--the denomination is headquartered in Brooklyn--to a slew of writers including W.H. Auden, Truman Capote, Norman Mailer, Carson McCullers, Arthur Miller, Walt Whitman and Thomas Wolfe. These days there are more yuppies than eccentrics in Brooklyn Heights, but the neighborhood's longstanding safety, solitude and seclusion continue to be the main appeal for residents.
MAP/BOUNDARIES
Brooklyn Heights is bounded by Old Fulton Street to the north, the East River to the west, Atlantic Avenue to the south, and Court Street and Cadman Plaza to the east.
TO EAT
On Friday and Saturday nights, the sleepy north end of the Heights is abuzz with crowds waiting for tables at the neighborhood's most popular restaurants. Montague Street boasts a decent selection of more casual eateries as well.
Noodle Pudding
Residents promise that the food is more appealing than the name at the neighborhood's go-to Italian spot. Luckily for regulars, all the hype surrounding Noodle Pudding has pushed up the wait times more than the prices.
38 Henry St.,718-625-3737
Fascati Pizzeria Corp
No need to trek to Grimaldi's for a decent pie. Fascati serves up crunchy-crusted pizza--by the slice, no less.
80 Henry St., 718-237-1278
Le Petit Marche
Rounding out the Henry Street restaurant gang is Le Petit Marche. The sweet little bistro offers inventive twists on classic French fare -- for instance, a sprinkling of blueberries and mint add intrigue to the standard roasted-beet-and-goat-cheese salad.
46 Henry St., 718-858-9605
Tazza
Freelancers will be disappointed that their laptops aren't welcome here, but just about everyone else is thrilled with the tech ban that Tazza has enacted. Designed to foster lingering, the café-cum-wine bar offers a variety of beverages and snackable treats to hang out over.
311 Henry St., 718-243-0487
Jack the Horse Tavern
Hunker down for the restaurant's world-class smoky, crispy mac & cheese, or relax over old-school cocktails like Rum Swizzles and Behind the Knees.
66 Hicks St., 718-852-5084
Henry's End
From BBQ Rattlesnake Salad to Antelope au Poivre, the seasonal wild game offerings at Henry's End are a major draw. For the less adventurous, there's more classic -- if pricey -- American fare.
44 Henry St., 718-834-1776
TO PARTY
When the kids are put to bed, Brooklyn Heights goes to sleep, too. Head south to Cobble Hill's Smith Street for a wider range of bar offerings.
Floyd
While neighborhood regulars tend to dominate the bar's defining feature, an indoor bocce court, it's worth getting on the list to give them a run for their money.
131 Atlantic Ave., 718-858-5810
The Brazen Head
Rub elbows with the Brooklyn Law crowd and enjoy a rotating selection of beers on tap at this local spot.
228 Atlantic Ave., 718-488-0430
Sample
With sophisticated cocktails and charcuterie, this intimate bar is a civilized alternative to nearby Camp and Zombie Hut. The narrow space fills up quickly, so grab a table early if you're looking to loiter.
152 Smith St., 718-643-6622
Lobo
The margaritas at this low-key Tex-Mex establishment are an excellent way to cap off a weeknight or kick off a weekend night. Made with real fruit, the blood orange option is perfectly tart and the pepper-infused varieties don't hold back on spice.
218 Court St., 718-858-7739
TO SHOP
While the pet accessory shop per capita count is through the roof in Brooklyn Heights, other shopping option are on the limited side. Try Montague Street for the neighborhood's few boutiques.
MAC Cosmetics
It's hard to imagine why MAC would peddle its electric shades on mostly-vanilla Montague, but the brand's bold makeup is the street's edgiest draw. Swing by neighboring beauty emporium Korres for luxe skincare products to complement your MAC acquisitions.
156 Montague St., 718-596-1994
Tango
This is one of Montague's few independent retailers. From denim mainstays like Citizens of Humanity and Hudson to more fashion-y brands like Gryson and Sigerson Morrison, Tango carries the makings of both casual and office-ready outfits.
145 Montague St., 718-625-7518
Sahadi's
The kind of place that makes you want to cook. Purveying unanimously adored hummus, various dried fruits and nuts, and a staggering array of olives, Sahadi's is the ultimate destination for both ingredients and meals unto themselves at non-gourmet prices.
187 Atlantic Ave., 718-624-4550
Heights Books
Readers strolling down Montague will have a hard time resisting Heights Books' ever-present outdoor sale stacks. The used bookstore has a healthy selection of dollar finds and first editions alike.
109 Montague St., 718-624-4876
Nova Zembla
Nova Zembla was born to furnish your refurbished Brooklyn brownstone. From antique-style sofas to modern lamps, the store's selection will have decorators itching to remodel.
117 Atlantic Ave., 718-222-5705
TO DO
Brooklyn Heights' strong suit is historic brownstones on leafy streets, making it more ideal for picturesque walks than wild adventures.
Brooklyn Heights Promenade
Considering that Heights residents would rather look at Manhattan than live in it, the promenade provides the perfect vista for admiring the island from afar. If you can dodge the strollers and runners long enough, the path affords unobstructed views of the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge and the downtown skyline. Through Oct. 13, you can catch the promenade installment of artist Olafur Eliasson's "New York City Waterfalls," a public art project comprised of four man-made waterfalls.
Columbia Heights between Remsen and Orange streets
Brooklyn Heights Cinema
This is the kind of theater that cranky old cinephiles bemoan the extinction of. The cozy two-screen cinema shows a carefully selected roster of independent and foreign films and serves popcorn with real butter to boot.
70 Henry St., 718-596-7070
Grace Court Alley
While horses were once stabled in the mews off of main drags Henry and Hicks, these days well-to-do residents are the ones bedding down on the little lanes that dot the district. Wander down Grace Court Alley and neighboring Hunts Lane for a taste of why Brooklyn Heights was New York's original commuter town.
Off Hicks Street between Remsen and Joralemon streets
New York Transit Museum
What sounds like an easy way for the MTA to make a quick buck on tourists is actually a revealing glimpse of the city's past. The older you are, the more iterations of the subway car over the years you'll remember firsthand. Kids will jump at the opportunity to run amok through the trains, and grownups will appreciate nuggets like the pre-suffrage ad that reads, "Every woman will eventually vote--for GOLD DUST."
Boerum Place at Schermerhorn Street, 718-243-8601
TO BUY/RENT
The neighborhood's signature brownstones are as coveted as they are pricey. Heading east toward downtown Brooklyn, cheaper rentals and condos in new high rises abound.
Here's a sampling of what it will cost you:
RENT
-$2,050 for a studio in elevator building (Clark Street at Willow Street)
-$2,100 for a one-bedroom, two-bath duplex (Garden Place at Joralemon Street)
-$2,300 for a one-bedroom with fireplace (Henry Street at Joralemon Street)
-$2,700 for a renovated two-bedroom (Remsen Street at Court Street)
-$6,500 for a five-bedroom, 2.5-bath (Grace Court at Hicks Street)
BUY
-$289,000 for a top floor studio co-op (Clark Street at Henry Street)
-$410,000 for a one-bedroom in a doorman building (Montague Street at Columbia Heights)
-$839,999 for a prewar two-bedroom (Henry Street at Love Lane)
-$1,190,000 for a prewar two-bedroom, two-bath (Monroe Place at Clark Street)
-$4,250,000 for a 3-bedroom, 4-bath townhouse (State Street at Willow Place)
THE BUZZ
South Brooklyn neighborhoods may have a gourmet food establishment on every block, but real supermarkets are still few and far between. With the recent opening of the city's second Trader Joe's outpost on Court Street at Atlantic Avenue, the area's grocery prayers have been answered.
From gourmet-inflected frozen meals to chocolate-covered everything, the new addition represents a happy medium between bodegas and cheese shops.
While some residents aren't thrilled about the landing of another giant in the area, the showing over opening weekend implies that Trader Joe's won't be short on customers.
Q&A WITH AMY MASCENA
Amy Mascena has been the manager of Brooklyn Heights Cinema for five years.
What do you like about Brooklyn Heights?
It's a lovely neighborhood. The homes are beautiful and the people are interesting and friendly. They really support the theater, which is one of the last of its kind--the only two-screen theater in Brooklyn. If a film goes down or a bulb blows, they just ask, "Amy, how long is it going to take?"
What are your favorite neighborhood spots?
When tourists come over the bridge, I tell them about the views from the promenade. I recommend going to Noodle Pudding --it's homestyle Tuscan food, like going to mom's kitchen. The food is good, but it's more the comfy atmosphere. Henry's End has also been here a long time. I tell people they can grab a slice at Fascati's and bring it in if they don't drop it on the floor.
How do you see the neighborhood changing?
Between the opening of Galapagos Art Space and St. Ann's Warehouse, there's a lot going on in DUMBO. I'd like to see DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights connecting more -- it would be nice to get more foot traffic in this area.
How do you pick the movies you show?
I try to show small pictures you can't see anywhere else. I'm passionate about reading up on them ahead of time. I start from festivals and bring them here. I like foreign; French films are great. Once in a while I'll bring a big picture if it's good.
Any future plans for the theater?
We're in negotiation for expansion--two more screens and a café or wine bar.
THE BASICS:
Library
Brooklyn Heights branch
280 Cadman Plaza West at Tillary Street, 718-623-7100
Police
84th Precinct
301 Gold St., 718-875-6811
Schools
St. Charles Borromeo School, 23 Sidney Pl.; Chabad Lubavitch of Brooklyn Heights, 117 Remsen St.; Packer Collegiate Institute, 170 Joralemon St.; PS 8, 37 Hicks St.; Saint Ann's School, 129 Pierrepont St.; Grace Church School, 254 Hicks St.
Transportation
Train: A, C, F to Jay St.-Borough Hall; M, R, 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall
Bus: B25, B26, B61, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B63, B75,
Crime Stats
The 84th precinct, which covers Brooklyn Heights, Boerum Hill, Vinegar Hill and the Farragut Residences, reported 1 murder, 1 rape, 144 robberies, and 83 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there was 1 murder, 3 rapes, 153 robberies, and 106 burglaries.