Washington Heights, an expansive, vibrant neighborhood characterized by its unique landscape, distinct enclaves and prominent Dominican community, occupies nearly all of the land in northern Manhattan.
The inescapable crowds, blaring music and countless shops on Broadway and St. Nicholas Avenue, two of the main drags, contrast markedly with the area's serene hilltops and parks, from which there are open views of the Hudson River and the Palisades -- an asset that lends the neighborhood a different feel from the rest of the borough.
During the Revolutionary War, the area was home to Fort Washington, one of several established in the region to prevent British access to the New York harbor. After the war, the area's pastoral qualities made it extremely popular with wealthy New Yorkers, who had their elaborate -- and sometimes grossly excessive --mansions built there.
Since the 1960s, the neighborhood has served as the heart of New York's Dominican community, fostering political and cultural cohesion and achievement.
But Washington Heights hit rough times in the '80s, when its streets became infested with crack dealing, gangs, and violence.
"We had our problems in the '80s; we got a really bad rap for the drug epidemic," explained Gus Perry, who grew up in the area. "Everyone was blaming all of the problems north of 96th Street on Washington Heights."
Adds Milton Coste, a life-long resident and real estate agent who works in the area, "I know the blocks, I know what it was like 20, 30 years ago. And it wasn't good."
"It changed when they split the precinct up to improve coverage. There was a stronger police presence."
Perry agrees that things have improved.
"The neighborhood has really bounced back," he said. "It's a safe and decent place to live now."
This renaissance has attracted new residents, most notably young people and others looking to save money.
Excellent transportation, including proximity to both major highways, an express train, two local trains and countless buses, has made it popular with residents who commute to work.
Also appealing are the affordable prewar apartments with original detailing, abundance of green space and congenial neighborhood vibe.
To keep up with the growth, businesses catering to the new residents are constantly cropping up.
"It's a Mecca for restaurants," said Perry. "There's one opening up every month, or even every week."
For the most part, new businesses haven't displaced those already rooted in the community. "Businesses are still locally owned," said resident Kurt Thometz. "Mom and pop places. No big chains."
Added Coste, "People in the community are empowering themselves: staying in the neighborhood, working in the neighborhood, buying in the neighborhood."
"Though it's becoming more diverse, it's not taking away the essence of the area, which is still mostly Dominican."
Thometz agrees that things haven't changed too dramatically.
"Especially in my area--around Jumel Terrace--it could be decades and decades ago," said Thometz. "And you wouldn't know it."
"You have artists, musicians, blue collar people, just like always."
Perry believes that the diversity is important for the area's growth.
"Every nabe needs to get new blood," he said. "Because it gives it new life."
Washington Heights is defined by Dyckman Street to the north, the Harlem River to the east, 155th Street to the south, and the Hudson River to the west.
TO SEE
You could easily fill several days exploring Washington Heights' lush parks, well-preserved architecture and oddly undervisited historical sites--not to mention the Met's medieval kid sister, the Cloisters. The carefully designed Fort Tryon Park, a hilly haven overlooking the Hudson, hosts the Medieval Festival in the fall, as well as other events. On the neighborhood's eastern edge, Highbridge Park boasts a newly renovated pool.
Morris-Jumel Mansion
Sitting proudly atop a hill near the eastern edge of Washington Heights, Manhattan's oldest private home once served as George Washington's headquarters, where he dined with John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, and Alexander Hamilton, among others. Since 1904 it's been preserved and decorated in the French Empire style, and open to the public. The small backyard is an absolute joy.
65 Jumel Terrace 212-923-8008
The Cloisters
The Met's lovely annex in Fort Tryon Park houses a collection of medieval tapestries, sculptures, and religious objects. Among the many highlights are a complete set of illuminated 15th century playing cards, the unicorn tapestries and a mind-bogglingly detailed boxwood rosary bead. Also check out the three gardens, where medieval herbs are cultivated, and the terrace overlooking the river.
212-923-3700
United Palace Theater
Often considered one of the finest of Thomas Lamb's designs, this exquisite and imposing structure with its dizzying mishmash of architectural styles was one of Loew's five Wonder Theaters. It's a church now, but it's regularly rented out as a venue. Next up: Ani DiFranco on July 16.
4140 Broadway 212-568-0915
Audubon Terrace
Situated on land once owned by John James Audubon, this Beaux Arts and American Renaissance complex now houses the Hispanic Society of America (613 W. 155th St. 212-926-2234), a reference library dedicated to the arts and cultures of Spain, Portugal, and Latin America, and The American Academy of Arts and Letters (633 W. 155th St. 212-368-5900), an honor society of 250 architects, composers, artists and writers.
Broadway at West 155th Street
Audubon Ballroom
Since its construction in 1912, Thomas Lamb's ballroom has served as a vaudeville theater, a movie house, a religious hall--and the site of Malcolm X's assassination. Partially demolished in the 1990s to make way for a Columbia University research center, it is now home to the Malcolm X & Dr. Betty Shabazz Memorial & Educational Center.
3940 Broadway 212-568-1341
ALSO: Museum of Art & Origins Native and contemporary art, by appointment; 430 W. 162nd St. 212-740-2001. Bennett Avenue Manhattan's highest natural point offers excellent views of the borough's natural cliffs; between W. 190th St. and Broadway. Parlor Jazz Sundays at 4pm, Marjorie Eliot holds live jazz concerts in her living room; 555 Edgecombe Ave. Uptown Arts Stroll Annual event dedicated to promoting arts north of 155th Street; artstroll.com.
TO EAT
Broadway is crammed with Dominican and Caribbean restaurants, while a cluster of fancier, loungier places has sprouted up on West 187th Street in the Hudson Heights area. In the summer, pupusa wagons set up shop on the side streets; squealing youngsters swarm the coco helado carts; and vendors hawk pared fruit, including sublimely sweet and creamy mangoes -- no fur or mushiness here -- on wooden sticks.
New Caporal Fried Chicken and Shrimp
Though a bulletproof partition separates the kitchen from the masses, it doesn't stop the pungent fryer aroma from wafting into the nostrils of the customers queuing up for the bargain three-piece Snack Box with fries. Look out for the endearing mural of the chicken catching the fish.
3772 Broadway 212-862-8986
La Casa Del Mofongo
An energetic multi-level restaurant and bar that serves up almost 30 different kinds of mofongo -- mashed plantain cakes seasoned with pork and garlic -- as well as breakfast, steak, daily specials and batidas.
1447 St. Nicholas Ave. 212-740-1200
107 West
Fried chicken, mayonnaisey crab cakes and heavenly desserts such as Frozen Mocha Mud Pie are just a few of the specialties at this Cajun/Tex-Mex outpost in Hudson Heights' restaurant row.
811 W. 187th St. 212-923-3311
El Malecon
El Malecon's Caribbean-style roasted chickens boast the perfect combination of tenderness, grease and char; just watching their plump bodies rotating on the rotisserie spits will make you weak in the knees.
4141 Broadway 212-927-3812
New Leaf Café
Nestled among the lush greenery of Fort Tryon Park is this charming old stone house, which serves high-end New American cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Be sure to dine on the terrace when it's warm.
1 Margaret Corbin Dr. 212-568-5323
Tipico Dominicano
Seafood dishes, mofongo, and an extensive selection of veggie-based sides (a godsend for frustrated neighborhood vegetarians) are on offer at this 24-hour neighborhood restaurant. Get pumped for the trippy floral design on the ceiling.
4172 Broadway 212-781-3900
Joa
The neighborhood's most demanding foodies are eternally grateful for this modest Korean takeout joint, where the kalbi, bulgogi, chicken teriyaki and jeyook offer an alternative to the omnipresent Dominican cuisine and street food.
3908 Broadway 212-543-0922
Hispaniola
An upscale restaurant serving fusion cuisine best described as Latin-Asian-European, all attractively plated and presented in a slick but unpretentious atmosphere. Though it's one of the only places in the city where you can eat kangaroo (served here with breadfruit), the true highlight is the miso butterfish, which is just as tasty as it sounds.
839 W. 181st St. 212-740-5222
Angela's Coffee Shop
In a city plagued by $8 milkshakes, cloying neon signs and vulgar, contrived 1950s-style diners, it's refreshing to find a place like Angela's: the food is cheap, the waitresses are surly, and they've been using the same mugs for more than 20 years.
805 W. 187th St. 212-927-8458
ALSO: Plum Pomidor Fresh Italian-style entrees and brunch options; 4009 Broadway 212-781-3333. Jou Jou 24-hour coffeehouse with free WiFi; 603 W. 168th St. 212-781-2222. La Oaxaquena Restaurant Friendly Mexican joint serving dreamy horchata; 1969 Amsterdam Ave. 212-283-7752.
Heights Vegetarian Veggie Caribbean-style fast food; 1121 St. Nicholas Ave. 212-927-0908. Tawaa Tasty Indian fast food; 4005 Broadway 212-795-3374. Margot Home-style Dominican food served on gingham tablecloths; 3822 Broadway 212-781-8494.
TO DRINK/ PARTY
Though several of Washington Heights' restaurants double as bars, there are enough clubs and lounges to satisfy almost everyone.
In Vino Veritas
We trust in In Vino Veritas to provide the neighborhood with a cozy, likeable wine bar that also has a solid selection of reasonably priced beer and food.
1202 St. Nicholas Ave. 212-781-4900
Monkey Room
A backyard patio and a diverse crowd make this attractively decorated lounge a neighborhood favorite.
589 Fort Washington Ave. 212-543-9888
Arka Lounge
A routinely packed dance club and lounge that spins pop, merengue, Rock en Español, hip-hop and salsa in a relatively high-class environment.
4488 Broadway 212-587-9425
Coogan's
A reasonably priced bar that's been in the neighborhood since time immemorial offers decent food and an ideal atmosphere for those who aren't interested in a fussy night on the town. Saturday karaoke nights can get pretty intense, and the place goes crazy on St. Patrick's Day.
4015 Broadway 212-928-1234
No Parking
The Heights' premier gay bar features nightly DJs, go-go dancers, and weekly events with names like Too-Fah Tuesdays (two for one drink specials) and M&M Mondays (movies and drinks starting with the letter M). It's frequented by a diverse local crowd.
4168 Broadway 212-923-8700
ALSO: Jesse's Place Intimate corner hangout with outdoor tables; 812 W. 181st St. 212-795-4168. Serie 56 Latin dance club in Washington Heights' northern end; 4448 Broadway 212-304-4394.
TO SHOP
Washington Heights is crammed with bakeries, clothing stores, discount outlets and street vendors.
Jumel Terrace Books
A small but extremely well-chosen selection of books focusing on diverse facets of African, American, and African-American culture, housed in a brownstone opposite the Morris-Jumel Mansion. Frighteningly knowledgeable owner Kurt Thometz will blow your mind with his awesome stories. By appointment or serendipity only.
426 W. 160th St. 212-928-9525
Mid-Atlantic Fish Market
Ignore the live bettas on display and focus on the exceptionally fresh offerings, such as the glistening tilefish filets nestled in crushed ice, breaded cutlets awaiting the deep fryer and crab shells stuffed with tasty crab cakes.
4250 Broadway 212-923-1600
Cabrini Wines
An expansive store with an impressive selection of affordable wines, staffed by knowledgeable owners who will help point you in the right direction.
831 W. 181st St. 212-568-3290
Carrot Top Pastries
Walnut-packed carrot muffins, comparable to carrot cake devoid of frosting, are among the shop's signature baked goods that attract sizeable queues of giddy customers.
3931 Broadway 212-927-4800
Moscow on the Hudson
A haven of Russian and European imports, including dried fish, various jams, sausages, a freezer full of pierogies and blintzes, and all the fruit and berry juices you wish were more readily available in the States.
801 W. 181st St. 212-740-7397
Jennifer Ouellette
A shop devoted to Ouellette's luxury millinery and accessories, designs that have graced the pretty heads of Hillary Duff, Jessica Simpson and Fergie, among others luminaries.
854 W. 181st St. 212-927-7451
REAL ESTATE
In recent years, Washington Heights has seen an increasing number of young bargain-hunters express interest in the neighborhood.
"We've never had a problem attracting the New Yorker who couldn't afford the Village, Chelsea or the West Side," explained Gus Perry of Stein-Perry Real Estate. "But now, younger folks are moving in."
"Maybe it's us having a couple of Starbucks, a few more bars where they can hang out."
Milton Coste of 159 Real Estate agreed. " NYU and Columbia students can get pretty good shares," he said. "And it beats paying for campus housing."
Perry notes that for rentals, "the best bargains are east of Broadway--it's still a little raucous."
Also moving in are Manhattanites priced out of more expensive neighborhoods.
To accommodate the influx, landlords are updating their buildings--and raising rents.
"Prewar buildings are being renovated," explained Coste. "They're giving them that luxury feel and charging more."
As well, new development is becoming more commonplace.
"In the last five years we've seen an increased demand for condos," said Perry. "They convert older buildings, or look for space for a new development."
Coste, however, is unimpressed with the new wave of construction. "To be honest, I don't agree with how those condos are being priced--they're too expensive."
He added, "but there are several great deals on co-ops."
TO RENT
$1,100 for a one-bedroom apartment (W. 170th St. at Fort Washington Ave.)
$1,200 for a two-bedroom, one-bathroom railroad apartment (W. 174th St. and St. Nicholas)
$1,300 for a one-bedroom apartment (W. 190th St.)
$1,400 for a two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment (Audubon Ave. at W. 176th St.)
$1,700 for a one-bedroom apartment with terrace (Bennett Ave. at W. 186th St.)
$1,795 for a three-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment (W. 189th at St. Nicholas Ave.)
$1,799 for a two-bedroom, one-bathroom floor-thru brownstone apartment (Riverside Dr. at W. 157th St.)
$1,900 for a two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment (W. 177th St. at Haven Ave.)
$1,900 for a three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment (W. 157th St. & Broadway)
$2,350 for a three-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment (Fort Washington Ave. at W. 168th St.)
$2,695 for a three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment (W. 157th St. at Broadway)
Contact:
Milton Coste, Senior Agent, 159 Real Estate
917-416-7433
milton.coste@159realestate.com
TO BUY
$299,000 for a 700 square foot prewar one-bedroom co-op (870 W. 181st St.)
$339,000 for a 700 square foot one-bedroom co-op (340 Haven Ave.)
$379,000 for a 632 square foot one-bedroom luxury condo (2360 Amsterdam Ave.)
$425,000 for a 975 square foot two-bedroom, one-bathroom co-op (330 Haven Ave.)
$499,000 for an 892 square foot two-bedroom, two-bathroom luxury condo (2360 Amsterdam Ave.)
$599,000 for a 1,172 square foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (2360 Amsterdam Ave.)
$639,000 for a 1200 square foot two-bedroom, two-bathroom co-op (720 Fort Washington Ave.)
$649,000 for a 1300 square foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom renovated prewar co-op (825 W. 179th St.)
$899,000 for a 1600 square foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom co-op (720 Fort Washington Ave.)
$899,000 for a 1388 square foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom luxury condo (2360 Amsterdam Ave.)
Contact:
Gus Perry, Principal Broker/Owner, Stein-Perry Real Estate Inc.
917-991-3437
gusperry@steinperry.com
RECENTLY SOLD
$332,000 for a 725 square foot one-bedroom co-op (340 Haven Ave.)
$465,000 for a 799 square foot one-bedroom co-op in Castle Village (160 Cabrini Blvd.)
$880,000 for a 1600 square foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom co-op (720 Fort Washington Ave.)
THE BUZZ
The overwhelmingly positive response to Lin-Manuel Miranda's Tony Award-winning musical In the Heights, which is set in the neighborhood, has generated significant interest in Washington Heights.
"I've had people say they're looking into living here because they saw the play, and that got them excited," said Milton Coste at 159 Real Estate.
"It was something created for and about the neighborhood, but it appeals to a lot of different people: the whole Broadway crowd, and beyond. It's about home."
Q&A WITH ELIZABETH MATHEWS
Wig stylist and actor Elizabeth Mathews and her dog, Lady Mary, have lived in Washington Heights for four years.
Why did you move here?
I moved to New York to be a performer, and the neighborhood was cheap: you could get a lot of space for a small amount of money.
What characterizes the area?
It's very diverse. East of Broadway it's still very Dominican and up where I live now, it's traditional Jewish. I hear Russian, all kinds of languages -- I'm not even sure what the nationalities are. Also, the apartments are very old and beautiful, with all the original details. In our first apartment, the ceilings were so high that I had to call the super to change the light bulb; a stepladder wouldn't reach.
What's the best thing about the neighborhood?
I live right across from the park, meaning I look out my window and see trees. I spend a lot of time outside, and there's one of the biggest dog-runs here in Manhattan, with a ring for the big dogs and one for the little dogs, too. The Cloisters is also one of the jewels, but I'm not sure people are taking advantage of it.
What are the worst things about the area?
Rising rents! When we left our first apartment, our rent was $1,900; two years ago, it was less than $1,000. As an actor waiting tables, you can barely pay rent. It feels like there's nowhere to live anymore.
Do you think you'll stay here?
I don't want to leave this apartment, but I'm nervous about the rents getting too expensive. And it would take a miracle to be able to buy.
THE BASICS
Libraries
New York Public Library – Washington Heights
1000 St. Nicholas Ave. 212-923-6054
New York Public Library – Fort Washington
535 W. 179th St. 212-927-3533
Police Station
34th Precinct
4295 Broadway
33rd Precinct
2207 Amsterdam Ave.
Transportation
Subway:
A to 168th St., 175th St.,181st St. 191st St.
B to 145th St.;
C to 155th St.; 163rd St., 168th St.
1 to 157th St., 168th St., 181st St., 191st St., Dyckman St.
Bus: M2, 3, 4, 5, 18, 98, 100, 101; Bx3, 6, 7, 11, 13, 35, 36.
Crime Stats
The 34th Precinct, which includes Washington Heights from West 179th Street north through Inwood, reported 2 murders, 11 rapes, 117 robberies and 113 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there was 1 murder, 10 rapes, 117 robberies and 123 burglaries.
The 33rd Precinct, which includes Washington Heights south of West 179th Street, reported 0 murders, 12 rapes, 111 robberies and 45 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there were 4 murders, 5 rapes, 102 robberies and 71 burglaries.
Schools
Community Health Academy / IS 143 / MS 348, 511 W. 182nd St.;
Gregorio Luperon High School, 516 W. 181st St.;
Harbor Heights Middle School / High School for Health Careers & Science / High School for International Business & Finance / High School for Media &
Communications / High School of Law & Public Service, 549 Audubon Ave.;
IS 319 / IS 90 / IS 321 / MS 324, 21 Jumel Pl.;
IS 528, 180 Wadsworth Ave.;
MS 322 / MS 293 / IS 218, 4600 Broadway;
MS 326 / MS 328 / IS 326, 401 W. 164th St.;
PS 115, 586 W. 177th St.;
PS 128, 560 W. 169th St.;
PS 132, 185 Wadsworth Ave.;
PS 152 / Washington Heights Academy, 93 Nagle Ave.;
PS 173, 306 Fort Washington Ave.;
PS 178, 12-18 Ellwood St.;
PS 189, 2580 Amsterdam Ave.;
PS 210, 4111 Broadway;
PS 28, 475 W. 155th St.;
PS 4, 500 W. 160th St.;
PS 48, 4360 Broadway;
PS 8, 465 W. 167th St.;
PS/IS 187, 349 Cabrini Blvd.;