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Happy to pay an arm and a leg for jeans

BY FARNOOSH TORABI | SPECIAL TO amNEWYORK

February 20, 2006

The tech bubble burst half a decade ago and the housing spike started to soften last quarter. But with more consumers than ever paying hundreds of dollars for a pair of jeans, the denim boom still has legs.

One newcomer to the premium denim forefront is Jean Shop, a year-old boutique in the Meatpacking District run by Eric Goldstein and two business partners.

Like other high-end designers, Jean Shop's concept is based on charging top price (pairs start at $240). But Goldstein is quick to point out a distinction between his store and other high-end denim retailers. Jean Shop's philosophy is "not about wanting the newest fashion on the block," he said. "It's for somebody who appreciates fine quality and classic style, whether it's in a belt, a pair of shoes, or jeans."

Jean Shop's selection is basic, with styles offered in a few shades of blue. Embellishments -- everything from stitching to patchwork to studs to getting that worn-in distressed look -- cost extra.

That's where the store strikes it rich. New Yorkers try to give their jeans that personal touch, Goldstein said, adding that it's not unusual for customers to walk out with a $600 pair of jeans. The most expensive pair he has sold cost $900. Goldstein, 39, began crafting his denim niche straight out of college. He first worked for Ralph Lauren, where he led the launch of Double RL, a vintage-inspired collection of denim, leather and hand-woven sweaters.

He then spent nearly a decade at The Gap, which in the 1980s and '90s was synonymous with classic denim wear. Gap is now struggling to redefine itself as premium denim brands emerge and thrive despite little advertising.

Goldstein has attracted shoppers through word-of-mouth recommendations and editorial clippings. Customers run the gamut from trendy moms to Hollywood starlets to Forbes-listed billionaires, he said.

Jean Shop plans to expand its wholesale business to shops around the country and in Japan.

Industry experts say Jean Shop is banking on a consumer trend pioneered by 7 For All Mankind, which arrived in department stores about six years ago as a pricier alternative to basic Levi's. Soon other luxe brands -- including Citizens of Humanity, Blue Colt, True Religion and Rock & Republic -- arrived, too, accompanied by $200 to $300 price tags.

"It all comes down to [the fact that] if a woman feels sexy in a pair of pants, she will definitely pay that kind of money for it," said Pearl Woodring, the head contemporary denim buyer for Bloomingdale's.

Men are seeking expensive jeans, too. Recently, John Hurwitz, 35, was ringing up his first Jean Shop purchase -- a dark blue pair with no embellishments for $260.10, including tax.

It's a steep price, Hurwitz acknowledged. But these days, he said, he is a less-is-more shopper, with a closet filled with fewer, higher quality pieces. "I don't buy 10 pairs of jeans anymore," Hurwitz said. "I buy three."

Farnoosh Torabi is the business producer at NY1 News. If you know a small business with an interesting story, please e-mail her at AMSmallBusiness@gmail.com.