Red Hook, Brooklyn: City Living on the edge?

Stroll along the water behind the Fairway and you'll discover these strange abandoned old subway cars sitting like monuments to Brooklyn's past. (Katya Pronin, Katya Pronin / September 17, 2008)

The cobblestone streets, turn-of-the-century row houses, and industrial buildings that characterize Red Hook, which has been shaped by years of relative isolation from the rest of Brooklyn, often surprise first-time visitors.

It's this well-preserved historical character, as well as a low population density, views of the waterfront and access to public parks that attract artists, craftspeople, families and others seeking open space in a crowded, busy city.

Early Dutch settlers referred to the marshy peninsula as "Roode Hoek," which translates to "Red Corner" -- not "Red Hook" -- and does not refer to the shape of the Breakwater Terminal, which hooks around the Erie Basin like a giant claw.

Rather, "Roode Hoek" refers to the shape of the land itself and the rich color of the soil.

For years, Red Hook flourished as one of America's busiest shipping hubs, where boats from all over the world would stop to load and unload. Numerous pubs, flophouses, and ship repair shops sprung up to accommodate the burgeoning industry.

Ships were still docking in the 1930s when Red Hook became known as a gritty section of Brooklyn populated by Puerto Ricans and Italian Americans, among them Al Capone, who got his start as a criminal there.

"Red Hook's negative reputation came from its rough dockyard days," said former resident Maureen McNeil, author of Red Hook Stories. "It was also known as a Mafia dumping ground."

The advent of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway in the mid-sixties diminished Red Hook's accessibility, forcing it to develop at a different pace from the rest of the borough.

A precipitous decline in the population and quality of life followed, as residents fled the area, crime increased and historical buildings fell into disrepair.

But during the 1970s, painters and sculptors began buying up Red Hook's cheap row houses with the help of special subsidies from the city.

"A lot of artists were drawn to the hauntingly beautiful place that came to be when the shipyard industry died," said Martha Bowers, founder of Red Hook's Dance Theatre Etcetera.

But settling into a decaying, forsaken area wasn't always easy for the new residents.

"The place was overrun by packs of wild stray dogs," said David Sharps, who runs the Waterfront Museum. "I had three different cats that were eaten by wild dogs."

He added, "We were the true pioneers back then."

McNeil remembers this transitional period differently.

"The neighborhood was labeled dangerous when in fact it was quiet, provided cheap housing, big backyards, salty air and an integrated community with close proximity to Manhattan," she said.

C.J. Martyn, who grew up in Red Hook, claims that in those days the neighborhood was particularly close-knit.

"This used to be a big place for family. Everyone had block parties together, looked after each other. My backyard was your backyard."

Change became more evident when Greg O'Connell, Red Hook's foremost developer, began buying up the area.

"O'Connell has been around since the 1980s," said McNeil. "He had a vision, and access to big bucks to buy up the neighborhood and renovate the warehouses."

Added Bowers, "O'Connell was able to work with the artist community, which in turn worked in tandem with the area's urban renewal."

Today, Red Hook has shed its earlier reputation and now attracts droves of urban explorers and casual visitors.

"The best thing that has happened to Red Hook in the last decade is that its stigma is gone," said McNeil. "Like all prejudice, it was unwarranted. I see the Red Hook community today enjoying what we enjoyed: access to the water, a big sky, a strong community."

"But more than that, I see young people living an alternative NYC dream."

Find It
Red Hook is defined by the Gowanus Expressway and Hamilton Avenue to the north, the Gowanus Canal to the east, the Erie Basin to the south and the Buttermilk Channel to the west.

TO EAT
Currently, Red Hook is home to a small but top-notch assortment of eateries, many of which attract patrons from beyond the neighborhood's borders. Though several new restaurants are slated to open during the next year or so -- perhaps in response to the recent influx of visitors lured to the area by IKEA -- it remains to be seen how long they'll last in a neighborhood that is still relatively remote.

Sadly, one of the favorites -- Alsatian restaurant 360, lauded by critics and locals alike when it opened in 2004 -- mysteriously shuttered last year. "If I'd known it was going to close," sighed resident Mickey Chirieleison, "I would have eaten every meal there."

DeFonte's
Standing alone among the warehouses huddled near the BQE is a toothpaste-colored building, which is home to this old-school Italian sandwich joint that's been in business for almost 90 years. Eggplant's their specialty, and you can stuff yourself silly with the dense, meaty subs. Make sure you try the potato and egg sandwich, too.
379 Columbia St. 718-625-8052

Red Hook Ball Fields Food Carts
Though diehards claim the glory days of the Latin food carts are over, the carts are still extremely popular. Hit up the Salvadoran pupusa truck for straight-from-the-griddle cornmeal cakes stuffed with jalapeños, loroco flowers, or succulent meats, then visit the juice cart for a silky horchata.
Weekends at Clinton St. & Bay St.

Baked
With its bright orange interior, hand-cut marshmallows, arsenal of luscious cakes, and sweet-and-salty goodies made with fleur de sel caramel -- paramount among them the elusive sweet-and-salty tart -- this habit–forming local hangout just gets better with free Wi-Fi and a quality soundtrack.
359 Van Brunt St. 718-222-0345

Hope & Anchor
While comfort foods like mac-and-cheese fritters, Spamburgers, meatloaf sandwiches and enormous tofu pot pies attract a sizeable crowd to this cheeky diner, it's the karaoke on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights that keeps them up late.
347 Van Brunt St. 718-237-0276

Viva
Anyone looking to escape Van Brunt should duck into this unpretentious Tex-Mex joint, where you can expect several bowlfuls of free chips, avocado fries with chipotle mayo and consistently excellent margaritas.
116 Sullivan St. 718-852-4192

Tini
With its communal tables and soft couches, this wine bar does an excellent brunch, with omelets made from local Red Hook eggs and thick blonde slices of French toast, dressed with stewed fruit and the occasional edible flower. Try the perfumy organic lemonade filled with watermelon chunks.
414 Van Brunt St. 718-855-4206

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pie
Nestling in a veritable Eden of lush foliage on Pier 41 is the factory producing the famous treats: little green pools of heaven encased in buttery graham cracker crusts. Try the mighty Swingle: a frozen, dark chocolate-enveloped key lime tartlet impaled on a stick.
204 Van Dyke St. 718-858-5333

The Good Fork
This upscale, congenial restaurant has seduced critics, locals, and Red Hook visitors alike with highlights like pork and chive dumplings and Korean-style "steak and eggs" piled atop a bed of garlicky kimchi rice. Some of the produce is sourced from Added Value, Red Hook's local farm.
391 Van Brunt St. 718-643-6636

TO PARTY Red Hook's nightlife includes some of the most atmospheric, authentic dive bars in town, and those who make the trip out will be rewarded with a party scene largely free of pretension.

Sunny's
Around since 1890, this delightful local joint retains its charm with live bluegrass and jazz, cheap beer and a delightful mix of old-timers, locals and visitors. Recently, Sunny's reinforced its credibility by banning the cast of the "Real World," which is currently shooting in Red Hook.
253 Conover St. 718-625-8211

Annabelle's
Occupying the former site of Lillie's, this somewhat slick and loungey venue across from IKEA offers live blues, cocktails and seafood. There's a garden in the back with a barbecue for grill parties.
44 Beard St. 718-643-1500

Brooklyn Ice House
Barbecued delights such as overstuffed pulled pork sandwiches (two-for-$5) pay homage to Pioneer Bar-B-Q, which once occupied this very space. It's since been converted into a dive bar featuring board games, Big Buck Hunter, a backyard patio, and more than 30 different beers.
318 Van Brunt St.

Botanica
Open since July, this airy venue off the main drag offers a whimsical slew of fruity cocktails (try a plum or blueberry gimlet) and wines, stacks of board games, assorted bruschette, pickle plates and soon, a dance floor in the basement.
200 Conover St. 718-797-2297

Redhook Bait & Tackle
Housed in a former bait and tackle shop (the word "bar" has been scrawled onto the original sign), this super-gritty dive bar to end all dive bars indulges in décor like mounted antlers and taxidermied bears. There are pinball machines and sometimes live music as well.
320 Van Brunt St. 718-797-4892

Rocky Sullivan's
Formerly the Liberty Heights Tap Room, this corner pub offers nightly events ranging from quiz nights and live bluegrass to stagings of locally produced plays. There's also an Irish brunch on weekends.
34 Van Dyke St. 718-246-8050

Hello Brooklyn
Hello Brooklyn features a stage, two floors and an outdoor area, and is ideal for a variety of events, including concerts, theatrical performances, spoken word, dances and art exhibitions, as well as private parties. Formerly "The Hook."
18 Commerce St. 718-797-3007

TO SHOP
In Red Hook you'll find unique house wares, jewelry and furniture, with shops on Van Brunt offering a range of antiques and handmade items. As well, glassmakers and other craftspeople working on the piers will occasionally sell directly from their studios.

As for the obvious shopping destinations, Fairway (320 Van Brunt St.) has a dining patio overlooking the water out back, and IKEA (1 Beard St.) distinguishes itself from the outposts in New Jersey and Long Island with a landscaped waterfront park where you can enjoy your post-shopping cinnamon roll or fro-yo cone.

Atlantis
A shop cluttered with vintage telephones, antique furniture, used books and other odds and ends. The owners also do expert furniture restoration, refinishing and upholstery: Get a load of that giant upholstered "red hook" inside the store.
353 Van Brunt St. 718-875-2098

LeNell's
This unique "wine + likker" shop presided over by Alabaman LeNell Smothers has developed a cult following for its emphasis on family-owned wineries and extensive selection of bitters and bourbon. The shop regularly hosts wine-tastings and other events. Up next: the Brooklyn Bourbon Festival on 9/28.
416 Van Brunt St. 718-360-0838

Bait Shop
Yes, you can put the hook in Red Hook because you're near the water, and that means you can fish! Run by the son of the owner of Redhook Bait & Tackle, this shop sells bloodworms, baby bunkers, jigs, crab traps and butterfish, among other items. Bonus: they even deliver to the local piers.
320 Van Brunt St. 718-858-4640

Liberty Sunset Garden Center
Voted "Best Plant Nursery" in 2008 by New York magazine, this lovely garden supplies shop near the waterfront sells cacti, bulbs, tropical plants, orchids and spiky bromeliads, as well as fertilizers and numerous accessories.
204 Van Dyke St. at Pier 41 718-855-4709

home/made
Owned by the same folks as Tini, home/made sells contemporary and artisanal house wares, including furniture crafted by one of the owners. They also host private parties in their backyard garden.
293 Van Brunt St. 347-223-4135

Saipua
With a name derived from the Finnish word for soap, Saipua offers bars handmade from luscious materials like brewed coffee, Italian olive oil, rooibos tea, French green clay and various herbs and butters. They also do lovely flower arrangements.
392 Van Brunt St. 718-624-2929

Metal and Thread
A shop selling handmade jewelry, scarves, tapestries and house wares featuring the work of Denise Carbonell and Derek Dominy as well as other Brooklyn-based designers.
398 Van Brunt St. 718-414-9651

ALSO: Erie Basin: 19th and early 20th century jewelry and objects; 388 Van Brunt St. 718-554-6147. Pier Glass: Hand-blown designs by artists Kevin Kutch and Mary Ellen Buxton; 499 Van Brunt St. 718-237-2073. Flickinger Glassworks: Custom pieces with bent or curved glass, including architectural glass and lighting fixtures; 204-207 Van Dyke St. (Pier 41) 718-875-1531.

TO SEE/DO
There are plenty of ways to entertain yourself in Red Hook, especially in the steamy summer months: there are film screenings, concerts, dance performances and a circus, among other events. The neighborhood has a gallery scene and lots of aging industrial structures, such as Revere Sugar Refinery (Beard Street at Van Brunt Street) and Brooklyn Clay Retort and Fire Brick Works (76-86 Van Dyke St.).

Red Hook also boasts a number of parks as well as the Red Hook Recreation Center (155 Bay St. 718-722-3211) with a free gym and sprawling public pool.

Brooklyn Waterfront Artists Coalition (BWAC)
Brooklyn's largest contemporary art show, spread out over 25,000 feet of a Civil War-era warehouse, features seasonal exhibitions with titles like "Spring Ahead" and "HOT!" On view through 10/26: "Art in Free Fall."
499 Van Brunt St. 718-596-2507

Red Hook Recreation Area
With the colossal concrete grain elevator terminal looming large in the background, this sprawling patchwork of baseball diamonds, soccer fields and picnic areas comes alive every weekend when Dominican and other Latino families come to watch the games and grill.
Bay Street at Columbia Street

Waterfront Museum & Showboat Barge
After David Sharps bought this 1914 railroad barge -- the last of its kind -- for $1 back in 1985, he docked in Red Hook and opened this maritime history museum, which also hosts art exhibitions, concerts and a circus throughout June. Don't miss George Rhoads' cool audio-kinetic sculpture.
290 Conover St., at Pier 44 718-624-4719

Erie Basin Park
When IKEA razed the Todd Shipyards to make room for their parking lots, they consoled their critics with this sleek, landscaped park, which admittedly feels a bit like a life-size architectural model. Numerous plaques preserve the historical richness of the area to an extent.
Behind IKEA at 1 Beard St.

Louis Valentino, Jr. Park & Pier
Surrounded by aging industrial buildings, this lovely landscaped park features an unparalleled view of just about every iconic structure in the city. You're welcome to launch your own kayak and canoe from the pier, or go through a group like Red Hook Boaters (917-676-6458).
Coffey Street at Ferris Street

Kentler International Drawing Space
Since 1990 this nonprofit art space has hosted contemporary exhibitions that encourage experimentation and cultural exchange, setting the tone for Red Hook's art scene and paving the way for other galleries. On view through 10/5: "Artists from Argentina."
353 Van Brunt St. 718-875-2098

Red Hook Farm
Run by the local nonprofit Added Value, this urban farm supplies local restaurants with Red Hook-grown produce, offers opportunities for volunteering and runs hands-on programs for local youth. There's a farmers' market every Saturday from 9 to 3.
Columbia Street at Beard Street 718-855-5531

REAL ESTATE
In the last few years, Red Hook has become popular among urbanites looking for an alternative to increasingly cramped and overdeveloped neighborhood.

"A range of people are drawn to Red Hook," said Rachel Shapiro, a broker at Red Hook Realty. "Young, old, professionals, freelancers, singles, families, black, white … I'd say the common denominator is a creative spirit and an appreciation for open space."

But because residential space is in short supply and there's not much new construction -- which many residents count as one of Red Hook's biggest assets -- it can be difficult for prospective residents to find their dream pad.

"It's partly because the neighborhood is a real mix of industrial and residential," explained Shapiro, "and partly because most people who move here stay, making for little to no turnover."

Most of the available residential spaces, which include turn-of-the-century row houses, converted lofts and the rare new construction, are rentals. Properties for sale are mainly limited to condos, empty lots and gutted buildings.

"In the last two years, I have never seen a loft for sale; also, there is no waterfront residential space for sale," said Shapiro. "Waterfront property in Red Hook is zoned commercial."

RENT
-$1,095 for a 700-square-foot ground floor artist space with 13-foot ceilings and exposed bricks (Coffey Street)*
-$1,200 for a large studio with hardwood floors (Wolcott Street at Richards Street)
-$1,575 for a one-bedroom ground-floor apartment with garden patio (Van Brunt Street at Commerce Street)
-$1,800 for a two-bedroom apartment with private balcony
-$1,800 for a 750-square-foot loft in restored factory building (Verona Street)*
-$1,900 for a newly renovated loft with common courtyard (Delavan Street)
-$2,500 for a 1200-square-foot two-bedroom, two-bathroom duplex with private backyard (Pioneer Street)*
-$2,900 for a 1500-square-foot floor-through (Van Brunt Street at Verona Street)
-*Contact: Rachel Shapiroat at Red Hook Realty. 718-483-5701

TO BUY
-$700,000 for a 900-square-foot three-bedroom, one-bathroom single-family home (140 Coffey St.)
-$799,000 for a four-bedroom, two-bathroom two-family townhouse (127 Pioneer St.)
-$825,000 for a 1500-square-foot three-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (Dikeman St. at Dwight St.)
-$859,000 for a 1734-square-foot three-bedroom, two-and-half bathroom prewar duplex (Pioneer St.)
-$1,100,00 for a five-bedroom, two-and-a-half bathroom newly constructed three-story townhouse (Wolcott St. at Richards St.)
-$1,250,000 for a 2,250-square-foot newly built three-story carriage house (King St.)*
-*Contact: Rachel Shapiro= at Red Hook Realty.

THE BUZZ
Ever since Robert Moses effectively isolated Red Hook from the rest of Brooklyn with the construction of the controversial Brooklyn Queens Expressway, the neighborhood has struggled with transportation issues.

As the closest subway stop, the Smith-9th Streets station in neighboring Carroll Gardens, is far from Red Hook's center, the primary transportation options are the buses--the B61 and the B77--both of which are known for being erratic and slow.

"They polled the local kids, and they said the B61 was the worst bus," said resident David Sharps. "It's their biggest complaint."

The B61, which travels all the way up to McCarren Park in Williamsburg, often gets trapped in Downtown Brooklyn's rush hour traffic.

"Then you see it speeding down the street, trying to keep on schedule," observed Sharps.

Complaining has done little to help the situation. "If you speak up, it will get better for a while, then go right back to the way it was," said Sharps.

The situation, however, has its plusses.

"Though it really is the issue, the lack of a direct subway line also makes Red Hook what it is," said Rachel Shapiro of Red Hook Realty. "It provides the sense of freedom, openness and community, like everyone here is collectively keeping a secret."

One thing that's helped is the new IKEA, which brought with it two dedicated shuttle buses to nearby subway stations as well as a water taxi, which ferries its share of local stowaways back and forth to Manhattan.

Q & A WITH DAVID SHARPS
David Sharps, a professional entertainer and owner of the Waterfront Museum & Showboat Barge, has lived with his family in Red Hook since 1994.

What brought you to the area?
I bought my boat for $1 in 1985 and founded the museum. Eventually I figured it could use a home port, and in '94 we were offered a spot in Red Hook: If we could build it, we could come.

What was the area like when you moved here?
Very isolated: You couldn't even order Chinese, and there aren't too many places in New York where you can't order Chinese. Empty lots, barbed wire and tow pounds characterized the area. There was a nice community garden, though.

What's so great about the area?
The lack of tall buildings allows wonderful light to filter into the area, and then there's the historical and scenic charm, with the cobblestone streets and Civil War-era buildings.

What's not so great?
I've had problems with the new IKEA, which did not consider the historical and cultural connections between Red Hook and its waterfront when it tore down the fully functional Todd Shipyards--and New York needs shipyards. You go upstate and the Erie Canal is protected; this was the terminus of the Erie Canal. The shipyards weren't Disneyland, they were the real deal.

Have there been any upsides to the new development?
Although it feels somewhat like a waterfront that doesn't include the water, IKEA's new park is nice. But the water taxi is the best thing to come from IKEA; it's good to have boats here.

Do you plan on staying here?
We plan on continuing to serve the community, a place with lots of potential despite recent changes. There is a sadness and disappointment in losing what I love, but my only consolation is that it makes what we're doing that much more special.

THE BASICS
Libraries
Brooklyn Public Library – Red Hook
7 Wolcott St. 718-935-0203

Post Office
USPS / Red Hook
615 Clinton St. 718-624-7756

Police Station
76th Precinct
191 Union St. 718-834-3211

Transportation
Bus: B61, 77.
Closest subway: F, G to Smith-9 Sts.
IKEA Shuttle: From Borough Hall; Jay St./Borough Hall; 4th Ave.; Smith-9 Sts.
IKEA Water Taxi: From Pier 11 in Manhattan.

Crime Stats
The 76th precinct, which includes Red Hook, Columbia Street Waterfront District, Carroll Gardens and Cobble Hill, reported 3 murders, 2 rapes, 54 robberies and 66 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there were 2 murders, 6 rapes, 73 robberies and 52 burglaries.

Schools
PS 27, 27 Huntington St.; PS 15, 71 Sullivan St.

Related topic galleries: Rentals, Building Material, Rape, Game Playing, Music, Property, Crimes