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Rockaway is Surf City

Rockaway

Hedwig Aerts walks from the beach carying a surf board in Rockaway, Queens. (Tadej Znidarcic)


A row of surfers bobs like bath toys offshore, the noses of their boards pointing toward the horizon, sniffing for the perfect wave. A warm breeze stirs the sand, and anticipation mounts as they turn to paddle in slick formation to catch a wave. It's a postcard moment, and not from California either. Greetings from New York's surf mecca -- 90th Street Beach at Rockaway in Queens.

Although a diehard surfer destination for years, it wasn't until 2005 that Rockaway Beaches 87 through 91 were declared the first legally surfable beaches within New York City limits. The Surf Beach is open year round from dawn until dusk, with fall and winter being the best seasons for waves. "This was always the hotbed of surfing, because it's one of the most consistent breaks," explains Steve Stathis, longtime Rockaway resident and surfer. Stathis also owns Boarders, a surf and skateboard shop, along with his sons Christian and Craig. Christian, a New York City firefighter and laid-back surfer, embodies the balance of this proud working-class neighborhood and beach hangout.

The four-year-old shop is central to the surfing community, hosting surf and skate contests, plus a memorial surf day for local firefighter and surfer Richie Allen, who died responding to 9/11. Just a few blocks from the beach, you can rent boards and connect with instructors. Plus, they offer rental storage lockers for surfboards, making it easier for the growing number of wave-riders commuting from Brooklyn and Manhattan.

Spanning14 miles of shoreline, Rockaway is an urban oasis. "It's a different backdrop than someplace tropical, but it's great to be in New York and to jump in the water and surf – that's incredible," marvels Andrew Field. When not surfing, Field can be found behind the counter of Rockaway Taco, which opened this summer. Tucked into a residential block, the modest stand seems better suited for a coastal Mexican town, and the fresh, savory tacos and quesadillas are as authentic as any found south of the border.

Businesses like Boarders and Rockaway Taco contribute to the friendly, mellow vibe associated with the sport, which is only growing. Of the popularity Stathis says, "It's a healthy, fun sport. It's exciting when the waves are big and you see guys who can really surf well. By the same token, I always tell people if you're a beginner and you stand, the amount of enjoyment that you're getting out of it equals the enjoyment a pro guy would get by scoopin' up a 20 foot wave."

Newcomers to the sport, Jorge Sanchez and Jaime Diaz agree that once you're up, you're hooked. After watching surfers on this beach for years, the friends decided to get in on the action. "It's awesome," Sanchez says, "Not only for exercise, but it's fun to be out here doing something other than sunbathing or tossing a Frisbee." Diaz reveals Sanchez's other motive, "He comes here for the girls." Which of course might be part of the appeal, but as the Beach Boys said, "catch a wave and you're sittin' on top of the world" -- even in Queens.

Getting there:
Take the Far Rockaway A train to the Broad Channel Station.
There, board the Rockaway Park Shuttle to B. 90th Street


Surf Gear: Boarders of Rockaway Beach, 192 Beach 92 Street, 718.318.7997. http://www.boarderssurfshop.com/

Surf Grub: Rockaway Taco, Beach 96 Street, 347.213.7466 or Rockaway Lobster House, 375 Beach 92nd Street, 718.634.2500, http://rockawaylobsterhouse.com/

Surf Suds: Connolly's Bar, 155 Beach 95 Street, 718.474.2374 or Tap & Grill, 9720 Rockaway Beach Boulevard, 718.474.9582

Related topic galleries: Fires, September 11, 2001 Attacks, Surfing

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