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Brooklyn Heights: City Living amid historic charm

By Hesper Desloovere | Special to amNewYork

October 9, 2008

Brooklyn Heights Promenade. (Phil S. Kropoth / October 8, 2008)

During the epic battle of Long Island in August 1776, George Washington hoodwinked the British by ferrying his troops to Manhattan from what was then called the Town of Brooklyn, leaving an empty campsite behind. Since then, escapism has moved in the opposite direction, with Manhattanites seeking respite in the city's original suburb --Brooklyn Heights.

When steam-propelled ferries shortened the trip across the East River in the mid-19th century, Brooklyn Heights became the haven for Wall Street types it remains today. While the construction of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges and the introduction of the IRT subway line at the turn of the century diminished the neighborhood's cachet somewhat, the area has a long history of playing host to suits seeking brownstones and privacy.

Brooklyn Heights has maintained its historic charm and dearth of high rises in large part thanks to the area's designation as the city's first historic district in 1965, a measure taken to prevent Robert Moses from ramming the BQE through the neighborhood. Much to Moses' dismay, the double-decker highway was relegated to the sidelines of the area's eponymous heights instead. Much to the residents' dismay, Moses transformed the waterfront stretch sheltering the neighborhood from smog and noise into a public promenade, effectively snatching away their exclusive claim to the coveted view across the river.

The focal point of the neighborhood, the Brooklyn Heights Promenade has always afforded a postcard-perfect view. Upon exiting his carriage on the area's waterfront crest in 1864, Abraham Lincoln declared, "There may be finer views than this in the world, but I don't believe it."

At the time, the expanse of private gardens was a popular destination for locals to see and be seen while "promenading." Now the public space is filled with joggers, tourists, and Brooklyn Heights residents taking advantage of the area's greatest asset.

The neighborhood's uniquely quaint and stand-alone feel has attracted a varied cast of characters over the years, from Jehovah's Witnesses--the denomination is headquartered in Brooklyn--to a slew of writers including W.H. Auden, Truman Capote, Norman Mailer, Carson McCullers, Arthur Miller, Walt Whitman and Thomas Wolfe. These days there are more yuppies than eccentrics in Brooklyn Heights, but the neighborhood's longstanding safety, solitude and seclusion continue to be the main appeal for residents.

MAP/BOUNDARIES
Brooklyn Heights is bounded by Old Fulton Street to the north, the East River to the west, Atlantic Avenue to the south, and Court Street and Cadman Plaza to the east.

TO EAT
On Friday and Saturday nights, the sleepy north end of the Heights is abuzz with crowds waiting for tables at the neighborhood's most popular restaurants. Montague Street boasts a decent selection of more casual eateries as well.

Noodle Pudding
Residents promise that the food is more appealing than the name at the neighborhood's go-to Italian spot. Luckily for regulars, all the hype surrounding Noodle Pudding has pushed up the wait times more than the prices. 38 Henry St.,718-625-3737

Fascati Pizzeria Corp
No need to trek to Grimaldi's for a decent pie. Fascati serves up crunchy-crusted pizza--by the slice, no less. 80 Henry St., 718-237-1278

Le Petit Marche
Rounding out the Henry Street restaurant gang is Le Petit Marche. The sweet little bistro offers inventive twists on classic French fare -- for instance, a sprinkling of blueberries and mint add intrigue to the standard roasted-beet-and-goat-cheese salad. 46 Henry St., 718-858-9605

Tazza
Freelancers will be disappointed that their laptops aren't welcome here, but just about everyone else is thrilled with the tech ban that Tazza has enacted. Designed to foster lingering, the café-cum-wine bar offers a variety of beverages and snackable treats to hang out over. 311 Henry St., 718-243-0487

Jack the Horse Tavern
Hunker down for the restaurant's world-class smoky, crispy mac & cheese, or relax over old-school cocktails like Rum Swizzles and Behind the Knees. 66 Hicks St., 718-852-5084