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Eat more fish

Linda Perney | amNew York

May 12, 2006

Chip Shop, in Park Slope (amNew York)

The city's chefs seem to be taking that advice to heart. When was the last time you ate out and someone didn't order the seared tuna? For that matter, when was the last time you went out and didn't find seared tuna on the menu?

So, in keeping with the notion that even the smartest of us needs a little brain food from time to time, we offer a choice of fish places from Manhattan to the Bronx.

Pearl Oyster Bar. The grandmommy of all those places serving up lobster rolls is just fine. If you skip the roll, there are creamy clam chowder, crabcakes, and fried oysters. The place is crowded even though they've expanded into the space next door, and some complain about brusque service. Still, the food will make up for just about anything. Do leave room for the old-fashioned sundaes. (18 Cornelia Street; 212-691-8211. Expect to pay between $33 and $45 for a three-course meal)

Shaffer City Oyster Bar. This is the kind of place it is: Take a seat at the bar, order a glass of wine, and then choose from among the 20 or so oysters -- from both the Atlantic and Pacific -- available every day. There is a dining room in the back, a narrowish space with exposed brick and a tile floor, but the bar serves a full menu, and it's a laid back place, especially for a late lunch or early dinner. (5 West 21st Street; 212-255-9827. Expect to pay between $75 for a three-course dinner.)

Blue Water Grill. It's very hard to go wrong here. The food is good, the place is cheerful, the outdoor cafe fine on a sunny afternoon, the service pleasant, if a little harried at times. The only drawback is the noise level, but it's no worse than plenty of places where everything else doesn't work nearly so well. The menu is expansive, with both sushi and raw bars; for a main course, the lobster and scallops with asparagus and peas tastes like spring. (31 Union Square West; 212-675-9500; expect to pay between $40 and $60 for a three-course dinner.)

BROOKLYN

Bouillabaisse 126. Back before eating out in Cobble Hill became synonomous with Smith Street, Neil Ganic opened Bouillabaisse on Atlantic Avenue. But as the rush moved on, so did he. Now, he's over near Columbia Street, with a newer version of the old place. The fish stew is as good as ever, and if you don't want that, there are crab cakes that exist in a realm other than the filler-stuffed patties you're probably used to. The space is nice: high ceilings, a banquette, exposed brick, and a blackboard for the day's specials. After Memorial Day there will be brunch in the garden on Sundays.(126 Union Street; 718-855 4405; expect to pay between $36 and $37 for a three-course meal)

Brooklyn Fish Camp. Mary's opened a branch of her thriving West Village institution in Park Slope last summer, and they haven't stopped coming for the lobster rolls, the fried oysters, and the scallops yet. What makes it better than the original? The backyard garden. (162 Fifth Avenue; 718-783-3264. Expect to pay between $35 and $50 for a three-course dinner)

Chip Shop. Some call it junk food, but fish and chips have a following same as burgers and wings do. Brooklyn's two branches -- the newer on Atlantic Avenue, the older on Fifth -- serves up hefty portions of battered and fried cod, haddock, plaice, and shrimps. If fried isn't your thing, there's a poached salmon salad. There are also non-fish choices like steak and kidney pie, chicken curry, sausages, and fried macaroni. If you like your fries McDonald's-crisp, you'll be disappointed, but the deep-fried Mars bars for dessert may console you. (383 Fifth Avenue, 718-832-7701; 129 Atlantic Avenue, 718-855-7775. Expect to pay $16 to $25 for dinner.)

QUEENS London Lennie's.What started as a fish and chips place has long been a respectable white-tablecloth restaurant with a fine selection of dishes. Specials change every day, but the clam chowder is always there and the lemon sole is a regular. Or you can make life simple and order one of the shellfish towers. (63-88 Woodhaven Boulevard, Rego Park; 718-894-8084. Expect to pay between $25 and $50 for a three-course dinner)

BRONX Johnny's Famous Reef. There's a reason they're famous. While Manhattan's uber chefs are busy building fish shacks all over town, Johnny's is the real thing, and has been for more than half a century. Steamed or fried fish is served cafeteria-style, along with clam chowder, cold beer, hot dogs and burgers. All that and a deck with a view over the Sound. Is this summer, or what? (2 City Island Avenue; 718-885-2086; expect to pay well under $25 a head -- unless you go for the $20 lobster tail)