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Burlington, Vt.: small city, big heart

BY BILL BLEYER | STAFF WRITER

June 18, 2006

WHERE

Burlington, Vt., is not primarily a tourist town, and that's what makes it such an interesting place. While there are plenty of attractions, such as trips on Lake Champlain in the summer and skiing nearby in the winter, Burlington is a working city -- a college town with regular folks shopping and checking out the restaurants.

First settled in 1775 on the terraced slopes above Lake Champlain, it has grown into the largest city in Vermont, with a population of 50,000.

To get to Burlington, take the LIE west to Cross Island Parkway north to the Throgs Neck Bridge. Take 95 north to the Hutchinson River Parkway, which becomes the Merritt Parkway. In Hartford, merge onto I-91 north. In Vermont, get off at Exit 10 and take I-89 north toward Burlington. Exit at Route 2.

For help in planning a trip call the Lake Champlain Regional Chamber of Commerce, 877-686-5253, or check http://www.vermont.org.

ATTRACTIONS

Burlington's downtown is compact and easy to navigate on foot. One of the city's focal points is the Church Street Marketplace, a four-block pedestrian mall extending from Pearl to College streets. Sidewalk cafes are intermingled with specialty shops, and benches are scattered along the tree-lined mall.

A few blocks east of downtown, the University of Vermont, founded in 1791, is worth a stroll. Its early structures are stunning works of architecture. The Robert Hull Fleming Museum (802-656-0750) on campus, at 61 Colchester Ave., features European, American, African, ancient Egyptian and Middle Eastern art as well as 20th century Vermont artists. Hours are noon-4 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and 1-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $3 for adults, $2 students and seniors.

If you'd like to get out onto Lake Champlain, there are various options. You can board one of the Lake Champlain Ferries (802-864-9804) that leave from the King Street Dock and take the hour ride to Port Kent, N.Y., on the opposite shore. Round-trip fare is $7.50 for adults, $3 for ages 6- 12. Cars are permitted for those who would rather make a one-way trip to or from Burlington. The cost is $15 for a car and driver; $4.25 each adult passenger; $1.85 children 6-12; younger than 6 free; $1 for a bicycle. The ferry runs from 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

If a narrated organized tour is more to your liking, board the Northern Lights (802-864-9669) at the same dock. The excursion boat leaves daily at 2 and 4 p.m., with a charge of $8.95 for adults and $3.95 for children 3-11. There also are daily lunch and brunch cruises at noon ranging from $12.95 to $18.95 for adults and $7.95 to $10.95 for kids.

The Spirit of Ethan Allen III (802-862-8300) offers 90- minute narrated sightseeing cruises at 10 a.m., noon, 2 and 4 p.m. The boat departs from the Burlington Boat House at the foot of College Street; cost is $11.99 adults; $5.99 children 3-11.

At the Ethan Allen Homestead (802-865-4556), the last home of Vermont's founder, there are guided tours of the farmstead, located just off SR 127, as well as a museum and hiking trails. The site is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday 1-5 p.m. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and $3 for children.

About 7 miles south of Burlington on Route 7 is the Shelburne Museum (802-985- 3346), which has more than 150,000 pieces of decorative arts, quilts and paintings. All are housed in 39 historic buildings. The museum is open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Adults, $18; students older than 18, $13; children 6-17, $9.

WHERE TO STAY

The eight-story Wyndham Burlington (802-658-6500) is downtown at 60 Battery St., overlooking Lake Champlain. The 256-unit hotel was recently refurbished and has a heated indoor pool and exercise room. Rates for a double room start at $160.

Most hotels serving the city are in South Burlington, along Williston Road (Route 2), with accommodations by well-known chains, such as Howard Johnson and Best Western.

The Sheraton Burlington Hotel & Conference Center (802-865-6600), at 870 Williston Rd., is the area's largest hotel. The concierge-level rooms have views of Mount Mansfield, include a complimentary breakfast daily, and are connected to the main building by a covered bridge. The 309 rooms start at $184 for a double.

The Holiday Inn Burlington (802-863-6363), at 1068 Williston Rd., has an outdoor pool and a heated indoor pool along with a sauna. The 173 rooms start at $114 for a double.

The three-story Comfort Inn (802-865-3400), 1285 Williston Rd., has a fireplace in the lobby and an exercise room. Rates for the 105 units start at $119.95 for a double and include continental breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT

For food with a view you can't beat, try the Ice House (802-864-1800), 171 Battery St., overlooking Lake Champlain at the ferry entrance. Seafood, steak and chicken entrees are priced from $8 during lunch and $15 for dinner.

RÃ RÃ¡ Irish Pub (802- 860-9401), at 123 Church St., serves Gaelic steak and chips along with burgers, sandwiches and salads. Lunch entrees range from $6 to $12 and dinner, $6 to $16. There's also a large selection of domestic and imported beers.

Not far from RÃ RÃ¡ is Smokejacks Restaurant and Small Bar (802-658-1119) at 156 Church St. The creative menu offers such choices as sweet potato soup, skillet roasted mussels and smoky, sugar-cured pork loin. Dinner entrees range from $16 to $23; lunch choices start at $5.

A few doors down is Coyotes (802-865-3632), 161 Church St., offering inexpensive fajitas, tacos, quesadillas and burrito platters, all for less than $6.50. Steak, chicken and rib entrees are available at dinner for $10 to $15.

Dishes from Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Burma and China are featured at the Five Spice CafÃ© (802-864-4045) at 175 Church St.; lunch entrees range from $7 to $9, and dinner selections run from $13 to $17. On Sundays a dim sum brunch has about 50 dumpling, salad and other small dishes all priced less than $4 each.

For help in planning a trip call the Lake Champlain Regional Chamber Of Commerce at (877) 686-5253 or check http://www.vermont.org/.