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City Living: Yonkers

By Heather Appel | Special to amNewYork

December 13, 2007

Merk Chemists on the corner of McLean Ave and Martha St. dates back to 1896 and brings a sense of history and pride to the area. (RJ Mickelson)

Sitting a mere 30 minutes from midtown by train and offering expansive views of the Hudson, Yonkers in southern Westchester County is in the middle of several large-scale development projects, mainly on the waterfront, that are helping to revitalize the city's long-neglected core.

There's a sense that the city is on the edge of something big, with all the attractive new downtown buildings and restaurants. With four Metro-North stations and a new Water Taxi pier, Yonkers is seen as an alternative for people who want access to the city without the high costs and crowds that come with it.

"It's a nice mix of urban feel and newness," said Jacqueline Bouet, owner of Loft Dance and Fitness, a state-of-the-art fitness studio that was among the first businesses to open in the renovated waterfront district.

Yonkers, the state's fourth largest city, is also quite diverse, with a large Central American and Caribbean population, especially toward the Riverdale border. Driving along Nepperhan Avenue, you'll pass Polish delis, Middle Eastern restaurants and signs in Spanish for a variety of services and stores. The Northeast section, near Bronxville and Sarah Lawrence College, is a much more affluent area. McClean Avenue on the Bronx border is part of a thriving Irish community, infused with many families who've left the city.

Longtime residents remember the rough times and racial tensions that marked Yonkers after a landmark 1985 Supreme Court ruling found that the city had "illegally and intentionally" segregated its housing and schools. The city spent years resisting the court order to build low-income housing but has made strides in integrating some neighborhoods and has started to turn the public schools around.

Find it
Yonkers is bordered by the Bronx on the south and the town of Greenburgh to the North, the Hudson River to the west and the Bronx River to the east.

To eat
Yonkers has all the standbys -- pizza, steakhouses, Chinese, sushi, diners -- but there are some options that stand out. The most striking building on the downtown waterfront houses an upscale restaurant owned by chef Peter X. Kelly that's becoming a destination for diners from other parts of Westchester and the city. The ethnic diversity of Yonkers means you can find a number of authentic restaurants and food stores, from Mexican food to pub fare to Italian bakeries.

X20 Xaviars on the Hudson
It's the latest enterprise of chef/owner Peter Kelly, a Yonkers native who owns three other restaurants in nearby Rockland County. The menu features inventive seafood, vegetable and meat dishes. Kelly generated some buzz for the restaurant when he beat Bobby Flay on "Iron Chef America." The building itself and the second-floor dining area are elegant new additions to the downtown waterfront and provide stunning views of the Hudson and the George Washington Bridge.
71 Water Grant St. 914-965-1111

Zuppa
Zuppa is a downtown Yonkers restaurant with a stylish lounge and granite bar that services upscale contemporary Italian food. Chef David DiBari trained under Mario Batali. 59 Main St. 914-376-6500

Ya Hala Restaurant
The popular Middle Eastern spot is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Ya Hala offers a variety of inexpensive dishes, including falafel and shwarma. 326 South Broadway. 914-476-4200

Tacos El Poblano
If you're looking for authentic tacos, this is your spot. There are two locations: 200 New Main St. and 299 South Broadway. 914-963-1111

La Grotta Trattoria
Locals are fond of this Midland Avenue eatery near the Dunwoodie Golf Course. It serves basic pasta dishes and salads. 861 Midland Ave. 914-376-3200