Italian sleek in a city known for modern design

By Joe Gray | Tribune staff reporter

December 2, 2007

Hotel Spadari al Duomo

Via Spadari 11,

Milan, Italy; 011-39-0272-002371; spadarihotel.com

Located in the city center, just a block from the Piazza of the Duomo, the intimate, serene Hotel Spadari is well situated for the traveler hoping to check out Milan's major sites and get in a bit (or a lot) of shopping in this famed fashion center.

Although tucked into the quiet banking district, the hotel is within walking distance of shopping areas surrounding the cathedral, including the famous Galleria, and attractions such as La Scala opera house, Sforza Castle and Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper" (in the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie). The nearest Metro stop is just two minutes' walk away.

On approach, the rather plain modern building seems jarringly sandwiched among more attractive historic buildings, including Peck, the legendary culinary institution next door. Yet crossing the threshold reveals a calming interior of blues and blond wood accents, with clean lines. A collection of contemporary paintings (of which the hotel is justifiably proud) decorates the public spaces and the guest rooms. A posh salon with fireplace beckons past the long reception desk. The whole is modern without being coldly minimalist.

CHECKING IN: Before I even entered the hotel, the automatic glass doors whisked open and a porter stepped out offering to take my bag. He carted it off to the service elevator (a good thing as the passenger elevator was barely large enough for three people, let alone two people and their bags).

At the desk, I was expected and made to feel welcome by the gentle young woman who, speaking in English, dispatched the details quickly. Later when I needed a restaurant recommendation, the same woman listened carefully to my request (very good, authentic, but casual), then instantly suggested two places, marked them on a map and pointed me in the right direction.

ROOMS: The hotel has 40 rooms, each with bath and shower. Room No. 62, just off the elevator (I could hear it, but it didn't bother me), boasted medium blue walls with robin's egg blue accents throughout. The room opened into a short, narrow entrance hall that gave onto the main chamber, with its double bed, writing desk, easy chair and, the most pleasant surprise, a terrace. Through sliding glass doors (which cut off all noise despite the scooters buzzing below on Via Spadari), the balcony afforded views east toward the Duomo. Though its Gothic splendor was mostly obscured by commercial buildings, the spires thrust out over their rooftops, making for an inspiring sight of the Madonnina, the gilded statue of the Virgin Mary -- she glowed majestically at night.

The bed (a one-piece mattress, instead of the usual twin mattresses pushed together) was backed by an upholstered backboard with carved flower spindles and was heaped with pillows. Unfortunately, the bed pillows turned out to be rather hard, but the mattress was yielding and comfortable, the pure white sheets soft, with intricately stitched edges. The bed had no comforter or coverlet, instead a sash-like covering across the bottom, like a runner on an elegant dinner table. A medium weight blanket was sandwiched between two sheets ensuring that no itchy material ever touched one's skin. (A second blanket was in the closet.)

The desk held a flat screen TV (although no DVD player was in evidence), a packet of hotel information, stationery and list of laundry services. No iron or ironing board in the room. The mini bar kept bottles of water chilled (included in the room price) and also was stocked -- at a price -- with little bottles of spirits, beer and juices. Internet access was provided free in the room. Not traveling with a laptop? I signed on downstairs in the salon where a computer was available for a half an hour at a time, also gratis.

BATHROOM: Tiled in back-painted glass squares in an off-white, blue tone with white grout creating a brilliantly clean and bright room. The white fixtures (sleek toilet, bidet and large, deep tub/shower) and large vanity contributed to the pristine look. The mirror covered one wall, but no makeup mirror was provided. However, a kit did offer cotton balls, cotton swabs, a nail file and such along with the expected shampoo and bath foam. A glass door that swings to contain water from the powerful multi-jet shower head came short of preventing me from splashing onto the floor a bit. No robe, but the hotel did supply two pairs of soft cotton slippers; I found them rather small, though.

ROOM SERVICE: The menu (in Italian and English; offered from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and then 4 to 11 p.m.) listed salads, antipasto plates, a few entrees and pizza, and wines by the glass or bottle. The prices seemed steep. Maybe duck into Peck for a snack instead.

PERKS & PEEVES: Cozily placed on the bed were two slim books; one had tales by Robert Louis Stevenson and Katherine Mansfield (in French and Italian), the other a history (in Italian) of the Risorgimento (the unification of Italy). Having been teased by this thoughtful and unexpected touch, I would have loved to read through them. An International Herald Tribune, free at the front desk in the morning, provided reading for the English speaker.

Breakfast in the handsome dining area from 7 to 11 a.m. was included in the room price; choose from coffee (espresso, cappuccino and American-style), juices, eggs, including omelets, fruit and Parma ham (enjoy it in your room for no extra charge).

BOTTOM LINE: The online reservation form (available in 24 languages) was a snap. It explained the room types, with rates, and offered photos of some of the rooms. My rate was 228 euros (about $324 U.S. in October) for a standard room (including 10 percent tax). Rates range from 178 euros for a small single to 328 euros for a suite.

Handicap accessibility would be difficult with a step out front and narrow elevators inside.

IN THE WEB EDITION

For a video look at Hotel Spadari, go to chicagotribune.com/sleepingaround