Portsmouth, N.H. blends the old and the new

BY SHAWNA VANNESS | shawna.vanness@newsday.com

Portsmouth, New Hampshire -- Stores on a street in downtown Portsmouth, NH. (Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce)

Oh Portsmouth, my how you've grown.

Tucked along New Hampshire's seacoast, Portsmouth is a city that's always had classic New England appeal (think gracious old Colonials, scenic harbors and that small-town, convivial atmosphere). But it's just been within the past few years that it's burgeoned into a destination that, along with its historic sites, offers culture, entertainment, shopping and a truly mind-blowing number of restaurants -- all within the span of a half-dozen blocks.

But make no mistake -- what's happening here has not been a full-fledged transformation. Rather, the city has carefully retained its heritage while growing into the 21st century.

Trendy clothing boutiques take up residence in historic buildings. Expensive restaurants share the sidewalk with ultra-casual seafood shacks and ice-cream stands. While one 17th century oceanfront hotel was restored in 2003 after years of neglect, a modern Hilton also was recently built downtown. Free wireless Internet access is available throughout much of the city.

This congenial, old-meets-new spirit seems contagious.

Year-round residents play nice with tourists hogging the sidewalks and gaping at restaurant menus posted in the windows. Locals lingering around Market Square with their coffee and Sunday Boston Globe barely seem bothered by teenagers loudly jumping curbs with their skateboards.

Named this year as the only New England city among the National Trust for Historic Preservation's "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" for its "captivating blend of coastal beauty, historic buildings and lively downtown," Portsmouth has been lauded, too, for being walkable. There's also charter boat fishing and sightseeing cruises, family-friendly museums and historic home tours for the taking.

Not bad for a city of just 21,000 residents. Spend a weekend in Portsmouth, and you might -- if just for a moment -- consider becoming one of them.

WHERE TO EAT

The sheer number of restaurants in Portsmouth is impressive (and intimidating). There are more than 30 within a few blocks -- so ask around for recommendations on your visit. Here are some that ranked high on ours:

The Golden Egg, 967 Sagamore Ave., 603-436-0519

Popular with the locals for unusual omelets, hearty pancakes and homemade pies.

Bella Luna, 10 Market St., 603-436-9800

This tiny Italian bistro serves specialties such as lobster pan roast, a bisque-like soup with generous chunks of fresh meat made from a secret recipe. Sit upstairs for a view overlooking Market Square.

Popovers on the Square, 8 Congress St., 603-431-1119, popoversonthesquare.com

Casual cafe that's just right for after-dinner drinks and dessert, including giant warm popovers with maple butter.

Annabelle's Natural Ice Cream, 49 Ceres St., 603-436-3400, annabellesicecream.com

Homemade ice cream in outlandish flavors such as "Cashew Caramel Cluster" and "Minty Mint Cookie." Frozen yogurt, too.

WHERE TO SHOP

Funky boutiques, upscale kitchen and home-decor stores stand side-by-side with artisan shops and vintage clothing outposts. Of note: