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Eat and Drink

Lilia, Pasquale Jones, more NYC restaurants that use wood-fired ovens and grills

No longer just for Neapolitan pizzas, wood-fired ovens and grills feature prominently at these new NYC spots, where chefs are using them in increasingly creative ways.

Lilia

The Italian restaurant helmed by revered chef Missy
Photo Credit: Evan Sung

The Italian restaurant helmed by revered chef Missy Robbins makes all its fish and meat on its wood-fired grill, such as scallops ($16), clams ($16) and swordfish with ramps, chickpeas and lemon ($28), as well as slow-cooks ingredients like potatoes in the hearth. 567 Union Ave., Williamsburg, 718-576-3095

Speedy Romeo

At the newest location of this popular pizzeria,
Photo Credit: Speedy Romeo

At the newest location of this popular pizzeria, all the cooking is done with a wood-fired grill or pizza oven. In addition to artichokes ($16), octopus ($18) and bone-in rib-eye for two ($98), the restaurant serves cocktails inspired by wood-fired cooking, like the Diver Down with rye and a bruleed cinnamon stick ($14). 63 Clinton St., 212-529-6300

Pasquale Jones

This NoLIta hotspot uses its two wood-fired brick
Photo Credit: Robyn Lehr

This NoLIta hotspot uses its two wood-fired brick ovens, both of which were handmade in Naples, to cook everything from broccoli rabe ($12) and carrots ($12) to whole Montauk skate wing ($36). 187 Mulberry St., 917-472-7230

Faro

At this Bushwick restaurant, chef Kevin Adey places
Photo Credit: Faro via Facebook

At this Bushwick restaurant, chef Kevin Adey places his proteins in cast-iron pans directly on the hearth, turning out perfectly tender octopus ($24), duck breast ($25) and more. He also throws vegetables directly into the fire and smokes egg yolks in embers overnight, later shaving them over ricotta gnocchi ($15). 436 Jefferson St., Bushwick, 718-381-8201

Bedford & Co.

Inspired by a grill he saw while on
Photo Credit: Bedford and Co.

Inspired by a grill he saw while on vacation in Buenos Aires, chef John Delucie serves wood-charred Pennsylvania beets ($14), wood-fired oysters ($21) and fire-roasted whole branzino ($60) at his new Midtown restaurant. 118 E. 40th St., 212-634-4040

Barano

While the wood-fired oven at this Williamsburg spot
Photo Credit: Barano via Facebook

While the wood-fired oven at this Williamsburg spot does in fact turn out pizzas, it's also used for spit-roasting meat like lamb leg ($26) and Amish chicken ($24) as well as grilling vegetables like zucchini ($15) and asparagus ($9). 26 Broadway, Williamsburg, 347-987-4500

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