What the Sussman brothers are cooking up at Threes Brewing

Creative chefs all over the city are going to Gowanus.

Threes Brewing (333 Douglass St., 718-522-2110) is a sprawling event space with multiple rooms, marble tables, booths and a full bar that lets chefs take over the kitchen for a few weeks.

Now through March 31, it’s hosting two of my favorite hipster chefs, Max and Eli Sussman. The two are previewing a menu of Middle Eastern/Mediterranean dishes for their upcoming restaurant.

I absolutely enjoyed my citrusy Threes Hereyago brew, but I really came for the food — and it was as good as I expected. The Sussman’s menu is short, but complete. It’s veggie-forward with a few meaty exceptions and everything is bright and colorful.

The chicken shawarma was rich and juicy, nothing like the sketchy street meat you find in NYC. And in case it wasn’t filling enough, you can order fries inside of the wrap.

Bright pink and creamy, the beet hummus had a texture like yogurt but with no dairy in sight. The chewy pumpernickel pita was an excellent complement. The classic roasted cauliflower came piled atop bright orange Romesco with soft leeks. Other menu standouts include the veggie pita and lentil-pistachio dip, along with hearty orzo and lamb ragu with a soft egg and crunchy almonds.

I’ll be sad when the Sussmans leave Threes Brewing, but you can expect wherever they go next, I’ll be there — hungry for more.

Ariel Kanter is an editor at Gilt City.

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