Where the city finally exhales: Kiwami Omakase, DUMBO

Luxury, at its most evolved, is silence, intention, and timing. Kiwami Omakase sits precisely there—along the DUMBO waterfront, immaculate and composed, where the city loosens its grip and lets you breathe. This is not a place you rush into. It is a place you arrive ready.

Opened in June 2024, Kiwami is a study in restraint and refinement. Owner Mond Wu envisioned an omakase sanctuary that feels like a pause rather than a performance. The effect is immediate. The room is hushed. The lines are clean. The energy is deliberate. Everything has been thought through, then edited again.

At the counter, Executive Sushi Chef Xin Cao brings both gravitas and charm. A twenty-year veteran with roots at Kanoyama, BONDST, and his own Unique Omakase, Chef Xin cooks with confidence that feels generous rather than showy. He is warm, deeply knowledgeable, and genuinely fun. The kind of chef who understands that mastery leaves room for humor.

Executive Sushi Chef Xin Cao.Photo courtesy of Kiwami

The meal unfolds with quiet confidence. A chilled Noguchi Nama Genshu sake sets the tone—clean, cold, and precise. Starters arrive like small compositions: Ikura Tartare layered with sweet potato purée, uni, and shiso; smoked kanpachi lifted by yuzu and citrus zest; delicately fried kisu with yuzu salt and radish. Each course feels intentional, never ornamental.

Then comes the toro—my moment of surrender. Fatty tuna belly, presented in multiple cuts, each revealing a different personality. Rich, silken, nuanced. Chef Xin reminded us that even indulgence can be intelligent when handled properly.

The nigiri progression is pristine and restrained, built on a proprietary rice blend and fish flown directly from Toyosu Market. Botan ebi with truffle salt. Binchotan-smoked nodoguro. Beautifully aged chu-toro. Uni handrolls wrapped tight in crisp nori. Nothing overstays its welcome. Every bite lands, then clears.

Caviar at Kiwami OmakasePhoto courtesy of Kiwami

The space mirrors the food. An eight-seat counter framed in pale Japanese woods. A sculptural bonsai at the entrance. A softly glowing circular backdrop that deepens as evening falls. From the counter, sunset meets water in a way that feels choreographed yet effortless.

Kiwami is reached best by ferry, arriving along the waterline with the skyline behaving itself in the distance. The city feels far away here, which is precisely the point.

This is a must. A place for those who appreciate luxury that whispers rather than declares. You will leave calmer, sharper, and already plotting your return