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Cosmo, 47, and John, 51, have perfected their pizza over the course of three decades, working side by side in the same cramped kitchen. What’s it like, working with your sibling for that long? “It’s like a marriage, and we’ve never had a fight,” John says, a twinkle in his eye.
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“It’s the trays that make a difference,” swears owner Tony Nardi. Sorrento bakes its Sicilian pies in 18-by-18-inch cast-iron trays that date back 60 years. The kitchen staff wipes them down, but never soaps them — which means they’re infused with six decades of savory pizza residue. As for the sauce, that’s a combination of a thicker marinara variety and a juicier tomato one, says Nardi, 56, whose dad opened up the casual restaurant when he was 12 years old.
2004 Williamsbridge Rd., 718-828-7810
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Ask for a table all the way in the back, and you can watch cooks like Luis Piedia prepare your pizza through the glass partition between the restaurant and kitchen. When Piedia makes the crowd-favorite prosciutto pie from scratch, he tops it with fior di latte mozzarella (as opposed to buffalo, this wet, fresh kind is made with cow’s milk) before sliding it into the oven. He adds arugula, cherry tomatoes and chilled slices of dry-cured ham imported from Parma after the pizza has cooked for roughly three minutes. That brisk bake in extremely high temperatures leaves its mark as “leopard spots” — i.e. clusters of char on the crust — and a floppy center.
Spotting Patricia’s regular state senator Jeff Klein on our way out the door, we asked him how he likes his pizza: “I get mine with anchovies and sausage,” he says.
1082 Morris Park Ave., 718-409-9069
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