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The ways to eat for love

rest-2009-02-10_z

By ELENA MANCINI

Downtown restaurants to swoon your Valentine

In these luxury-averse times, trying to honor that special someone on Valentine’s Day with five-star dinners in restaurants with the celebrity-chef imprimatur (the ways that were the norm up until a year ago) may prove to put too big a strain on the wallet. Nevertheless, being obvious about cutting back is about as seductive as recounting your visit to the gastroenterologist.

Below are six varied and creative suggestions that will allow you to dote on your beloved in ways that won’t require you to take out a loan.

Bellavitae (Regional Italian)

24 Minetta Lane

212-473-5121

The name is a hybrid of Italian and Latin and is a play on beautiful vines or beautiful lives. This elegantly rustic Italian (think dark woods, earthen tones and a roaring wood oven) boasts a variety of small plates, pastas and a simple, yet inspired array of Northern and Southern Italian main courses (with small portion option) and exquisite selection of wines. The culinary execution is superb and the presentation is refined. The flexibility in portions allows you to make this experience as extravagant as you like. Tucked in an out of the way Village lane, the walk to the restaurant itself can be romantic.

Small plates – $12+

Pastas – under $20

Main Courses –

range between low and high $20s

Desserts – $8-$10

Downside: Some of the small plates are on the smaller end of small.

Grano Trattoria

(Southern Italian)

21 Greenwich Ave.

212-645-2121

Located on the relatively busy and commercial street, this charming, cheerful and unpretentious Southern Italian is not much in the way of space, save for the rear dining room and the women’s restroom which pays lavish homage to Sophia Loren, but the menu is replete with a popular and creative assortment of salads, pastas, meats and fish. The culinary execution is solid all around, and the service is welcoming and makes you feel right at home. Desserts are wonderful too.

Down-side: the front dining room is narrow. Good luck saving room for dessert.

Holy Basil (Thai Cuisine)

149 Second Ave.

212-460-5557

This East Village Thai staple, oft touted by Zagat for its quality eats is still going strong. This sexy, high-ceilinged, mood-lit classic has a generous space so seating won’t be cramped even though it’s almost always crowded. The menu features many of the classics in addition to some inspired seafood dishes (the steamed striped bass with napa cabbage and pickled plum and lemon is a true homerun) and vegetarian combinations.

There is also a decent wine glass and a small bar area for waiting. The duck spring rolls make a wonderfully savory appetizer and are optimally enjoyed with wine or a cocktail.

Soups: under $5

Appetizers: under $10

All main courses: under $20

Downside: The non-alcoholic beverage menu does not extend beyond soda and water.

Lan (Japanese)

56 Third Ave.

212-254-1959

This subtle, red-hued, under the radar East Village Japanese restaurant is a splendid option for both sushi and non-sushi eating sophisticated palates. The décor is warm and artsy. The spacing between the tables is generous and the acoustics allow for intimate conversation. Lan features an eclectic mix of refined and imaginative fish, noodle and meat (including filet mignon and pork belly) main courses, many of which are French-inspired. Fish carpacci and ceviches are excellent starters and the green tea tiramisu is among the wide selection of winning desserts here. Sushi is done right and appropriately-sized. Quality is consistent and the service is supreme. The tasting menu is generous, pulls out the stops and is entirely worth the $58.00 cost.

Appetizers: range from $5 – $38

Main Courses: range from $18- low $30s

Sushi a la carte: from $4 – $16

Desserts: average $7

Downside: There are many items on this menu than can make the experience turn pricey.

Le Gigot (Provençal cuisine)

18 Cornelia St.

212.627.3737

Located on one of the cutest blocks in Greenwich Village, this dainty little bistro serves up classic French magisterially. All dishes are made with fresh, high quality ingredients and exhibit a flair for presentation. The décor is rustic French with wooden floors and many charming antique touches, rendering the setting intimate not only because of the small quarters (the restaurant seats no more than 36 people), but because it evokes a simpler and more romantic space and time. Menu includes market price oysters. Le Gigot also serves an excellent weekend brunch. Both the $17.00 prix fixe and the a la carte options are highly recommendable.

Salads: $10 – $17

Main Courses: $27 – $38

Desserts: $9

Brunch: $17 prix fixe menu; a la carte items range from $10 – $35

Downside: Main course portions are on the small side of moderate. Restaurant can feel cramped if packed to full capacity.

10 Downing St. (Mediterranean-inspired New American)

10 Downing St.

212-255-0300

This casual elegant Greenwich Village newcomer is exquisitely poised to please both the culinary sophisticate and the trend-conscious. The menu features seasonal, farm-fresh foods that are sumptuous without being busy.. Thoughtful combinations and presentations betray artistry and expert culinary execution. Items such as Manchego cheese, piquillo peppers and Arbequino olives are used judiciously to brighten familiar dishes. The menu offers flexibility in sizing to sample a broader swath of the menu than otherwise. Many of the menu starter options are designed for sharing, and the pastas come in both small and regular size. The merluza, Atlantic cod, is a delightfully subtle yet flavorfully memorable dish. The high-ceilinged, contemporary glass-perimetered space is airy and the spacing between the tables is comfortable. The service is knowledgeable and attentive.

Appetizer and Salads: $9 – $15

Pastas: $10-$15 small portions / $19 – $25 regular portions

Entrees: mostly under $30

Desserts: under $10

Downside: The din.

Useful insider tips to making your Valentine’s date even more enjoyable:

Do not wait until the day before to reserve your table.

Avoid ordering the Valentine’s menu specials. These generally tend to disappoint.

If you can celebrate a day other than the actual holiday itself, do so. Restaurants—even the best of them—get overrun on these days and do not render optimal performance on holidays.

Mix and vary portions and genres: many restaurants, including Bellavitae and 10 Downing St. offer small size portions of main courses. Try ordering a few small size portions and appetizers and maybe just entrée. Share everything. This will allow you to sample more of the menu and may cost you less in the long run.

Elena Mancini also maintains a regularly updated NYC restaurant review blog: The Gotham Palate (thegothampalate.com).