BY HELAINA N. HOVITZ | A revamped grocery store now up and running in the South Street Seaport is receiving both praise and criticism from local residents and workers.
After knocking down the wall between what used to be a Burger King and a Foot Locker, Key Food re-opened its flagship store at 55 Fulton St. to an awed — and slightly overwhelmed — neighborhood crowd. The store, whose opening day was Aug. 15, is now called “55 Fulton Market,” marking the brand’s first shop in New York City to sell gourmet foods.
Contrasting the new Key Food to the old one is like comparing apples and oranges. The new market, which occupies 23,000 square feet of space, hails itself as a 24/7, one-stop shop for Downtown residents and the working crowd alike. Most would agree that the old Key Food was stuffy, cluttered and offered only the bare essentials. The previous store, located at 77 Fulton St., spanned just 3,000 square feet, leaving little room for more than one customer at a time to move through a given aisle.
The new space is enormous, the produce is fresh and the selection is staggering — but whether the store will leave a hole in the wallets of patrons remains to be seen.
The store’s ground floor isn’t just fully stocked with gourmet goods, a hot food buffet and a salad bar. It has impressive sushi and deli stations, a bakery the size of a small restaurant, a “World of Cheese” offering more than 300 varieties of cheese and a “World of Beer” that boasts 200 brands of booze. The store’s lower level, resembling the standard Key Food — of which there are about 100 citywide — features more generic groceries along with a full-service butcher and seafood station.
While the design is well-executed and the food is much fresher and higher in quality than that of its predecessor, it’s expensive, according to Southbridge Towers resident Carolina Barbetto. Prices of certain goods are even higher than those sold at Jubilee and Zeytuna, two smaller gourmet markets on John Street, she said.
“Most people who live here are on a fixed income and receive a pension or social security,” said Barbetto. “A lot of the seniors I’ve talked to said they can’t afford it and don’t like having to find their way downstairs just for a quick carton of milk.”
In contrast, Matthew Fichtemaier, who has frequented the market daily since its opening, found the prices to be reasonable. Ramen noodles at 75 cents a pack, he said, is a steal. “Jubilee is expensive for salad and vegetables,” he said. “This is also easier for me to get to late at night.”
Beekman Street resident Charles Chawalko, who also gave the store two thumbs up, said he’s seen the grocery store packed at 11 p.m. “It definitely accommodates people who aren’t on a regular 9-to-5 schedule,” he said.
However, not everything about the new market is positive, according to the locals. William Street Anastasia Kurylo thinks the layout is “confusing,” adding that going back and forth between the floors just to compare prices of produce is “a bit of a hassle.”
Still, she said, the wide selection makes it worth the trouble and saves her time from having to schlep to Whole Foods in Tribeca. “It’s great for people with unusual diets, like vegans and people who like to eat organic,” she said. “I’m on a gluten-free diet myself, and they have an entire section dedicated to that here.”
Though most patrons seem to love the outdoor seating area, some of them are anxious about what will happen next month when local high school Murry Bertraum is back in session. In the past, Burger King had problems with rowdy kids loitering in the fast food joint and accosting its employees.
But store manager Anthony Marcano promised that Key Food has it covered. “We’ve got security manning the store 24/7,” he said, “and there will be staff members out there in the afternoon making sure that nobody is bothering our customers.”
