I am a woman from Dallas, a city that embodies sophistication and cosmopolitan charm in the heart of the South. Perhaps that is why I have always sought tequila done elegantly—stripped of excess sugar, elevated beyond the clichés, presented with balance and beauty. For years in New York, I searched for a margarita that was truly fresh, one that could even be made “skinny” without sacrificing its integrity. At Pulpería Latin Mediterranean Kitchen, I finally found it. The margarita here is everything it should be: clean, citrus-kissed, and composed with an attention to detail that reveals the soul of the place itself.
The cocktails are not theatrical flourishes meant to distract. They are crafted with the same care that defines the entire menu—unique, inventive, and rooted in a respect for tradition while allowing space for surprise.
Let us pause at the name. Pulpería. At first, I thought it meant octopus, that mysterious emblem of the sea. In truth, it carries a richer meaning. A pulpería is more akin to a bodega: a neighborhood store, a gathering place, a nexus of daily essentials and indulgences, offering flavors and sustenance prepared with love. That spirit animates this new chapter, transforming the very concept into a dining experience that is both worldly and deeply personal.
Owner and seasoned restaurateur Orhan Cakir—of Palermo Argentinian Steakhouse & Bistro and Pierre Loti—has partnered with Karla Medina, who brings her expertise from La Pulpería, to launch this reimagined incarnation. The Pulpería name has traveled across New York, from the Upper East Side to Hell’s Kitchen, carrying with it the warmth of its Latin roots. Now, it has finally settled into its true home on Restaurant Row, a setting where theater and dining converge, and where Pulpería’s vision can fully unfold.
Executive Chef Miguel Molina of Guerrero, Mexico, orchestrates a menu that fuses Latin fire with Mediterranean refinement. The results are expansive yet intimate. Olive oil and ripe tomato meet the depth of Spanish chorizo. Saffron rice carries the briny perfume of the sea. Empanadas are elevated with chimichurri as vivid as any Andalusian sauce. Seafood arrives layered as generously as in Valencia. Here, the heart of the Mediterranean beats alongside the vibrancy of Latin kitchens, creating dishes that feel both global in reach and rooted in home.
Pan con Tomate—humble bread exalted by garlic and olive oil—speaks to the reverence for simplicity. The Seafood Paella, layered with monkfish, shrimp, mussels, clams, and squid, achieves a harmony of abundance and restraint. The empanadas, whether the traditional beef or the vegan variation of spinach, mushrooms, and cheese, are bound by pastry that yields softly to the bite and lingers with richness. Each plate emerges as a small ceremony of flavor, memory, and care.
The cocktail list, curated by Luis Villanueva of Casa Bond NoHo fame, continues the story. The Maracuyá Sour—pisco, passion fruit, egg white—strikes a rare equilibrium of exotic and refined. The Mezcalita, with joven mezcal and pressed citrus, evokes smoke and sunlight in a single sip. And then the margarita, luminous and lean, as if distilled from the very essence of elegance itself.
Pulpería Latin Mediterranean Kitchen is more than a restaurant. It is a culmination—a concept that has moved through the city and, at last, found its stage. It is a pulpería reborn, carrying the warmth of tradition and the boldness of reinvention. Every dish, every cocktail, every gesture affirms that dining is not just sustenance. It is legacy. It is love.
Pulpería Latin Mediterranean Kitchen is now open on Restaurant Row. Go, order the margarita, taste the empanadas, savor the paella, and discover how a pulpería—rooted in memory, reborn with vision—can feel like home.
