When Charlie Bird opened three years ago, I was a huge fan of the food, the drinks, the music and the unique coolness of the place. The team has excited me once again with their new restaurant, Pasquale Jones (187 Mulberry St., pasqualejones.com).
If you can manage to get a seat — either by going early or using Resy — you should try to sit at the bar. Sure, the sprawling orange leather banquettes are luxurious, but the bar has an incredible view. Each night is a show as you bask in the warmth of the two Stefano Ferrara wood-fired ovens and watch as the chef bathes a massive pork shank in butter and uses tiny tweezers to place fresh herbs on dishes as a finishing touch.
The ovens are perhaps the most spectacular part of Pasquale Jones, both of which can heat up to 900 degrees. Such a high temperature is perfect for the spot’s “Neo-NY-style” pizzas, which are absolutely delicious. Perhaps most popular is the Littleneck clam pizza ($24) topped with plenty of lemon, but I loved the margherita ($21) with its creamy, salty mozzarella.
Beyond pizza, other oven-cooked items include the broccoli rabe ($12) and the aforementioned pork shank ($48, for two), which is gigantic and would stuff even two people. And don’t forget about the simple, satisfying pastas, like the farm egg tagliatelle ($22) and pappardelle with goat ($23).
By the end of your meal, you’ll be reclining and very full, swaying perhaps to some funk music — for me it was “Signed, Sealed, Delivered I’m Yours.” And though hospitality is included, you may just want to tip anyway.
Ariel Kanter is an editor at Gilt City.
