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Fashion Week Spring 2016: Must-see runway looks and show reviews

You don't need a ticket to get a peek at New York Fashion Week's best Spring 2016 designs.

We're bringing the best looks straight from the runways to you.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs' runway shows are always major theatrical
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Slaven Vlasic

Marc Jacobs' runway shows are always major theatrical events, so when we heard he was taking over the Ziegfeld, one of the largest, iconic movie theaters in New York, we knew he had something big in store. And the runway had to be one of the longest ever (Guinness Book, hello?). The models (including Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, plus size singer Beth Ditto) walked the red carpet outside, through the lobby, up the escalator, past the popcorn machines (yes, concession stands were open), then into the main theater, where the Brian Newman Orchestra (Gaga's jazzers) rocked out. The runway was so circuitous one model turned the wrong way and audience members had to grab her to turn her round. Moviegoing seems the ultimate American pastime, and the clothes evoked Americana on overdrive with red, white and blue gowns, varsity jackets, sailor suits, booties, bags and more, many encrusted with gobs of beads, embroidery, even high school band insignia. Some pieces, like the sweaters with rips and holes, as if moth-eaten, suggested a faded Hollywood glamour. Kitschy stars 'n' stripes numbers can be worn in earnest, or irony. The hottest sellers may well be the face prints, a repeated pattern of Maria Callas, face on a suit and coat, and a skirt adorned with Hollywood scream queens like Janet Leigh, mouths wide, crying out. No doubt some attendees did the same with delight. This show will stand out in people's minds for years to come. -- Joe Amodio

Calvin Klein

On the last day of New York Fashion
Photo Credit: Getty Images / TREVOR COLLENS

On the last day of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa presented a smoldering and inventive collection he dubbed, "The morning after," the vibe being mega-sensual, somewhat askew and seductive. Models all looked slightly undone in the palest of palettes that included peach, ivory and eggshell with a touch of black. Fabrics were a luscious affair-- rich silk and satins, printed leathers and textural silk knits.The clothes were a study in deconstruction -- many with unfinished hems and seams, slashes, and backs left unzipped. To underscore the nonchalance, most ensembles, including dresses, were paired with frayed silk platform sneakers.These girls, with their tousled hair, ostensibly got out of bed in their, sexy lingerie-like slip dresses -- sometimes throwing on a floor sweeping robe coat over their shoulders. But this was no walk of shame. Gorgeous photographic floral and blossom prints were outstanding and will make many a must-have list next season-- a coat, an elongated dress, even loose pants, these worn with sneakers in matching floral print. Details underscored the collection's heat -- extra straps hung off the models as if they were in a state of undress and some of the steamiest looks featured cage-like chains that embraced the body. Kendall Jenner did not walk in the show but instead sat front row. She is after all a brand ambassador for Calvin Klein. -- Anne Bratskeir

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren loves Paris in the Springtime. But
Photo Credit: Getty Images / TREVOR COLLENS

Ralph Lauren loves Paris in the Springtime. But of course, who doesn't? The New York designer sent his models onto the catwalk to jazzy French tunes by Grenadine, Felipecha and Coralie Clement. To accompany the Francophole soundtrack, models with loose swinging hair and natural makeup strutted in tall cork clogs and heels, showing clothes in bright reds, navy and stark white outfits. Nautically inspired navy and white striped suits as well as several looks in tan saddle leather (a feminine suit and separates including leather shorts and a jacket) stole the show. Evening gowns, jumpsuits and just a few cashmere sweaters, all clean cut and and elegant in their simplicity, nodded to the iconic Ralph Lauren style. The designer walked out to Cole Porter's "Paris in Spring" to a standing ovation from guests including Julianne Moore, Alec Baldwin and Jessica Chastain. Bill Cunningham, Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington also snagged front row seats. -- Melissa Kravitz

Marchesa

With the music from
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Slaven Vlasic

With the music from "Addicted to Love" blaring at the Marchesa finale (might as well face it) the realization became clear. Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are addicted to fantasy -- and their beyond frothy collection of red carpet evening wear proved the point.The show, held at the swanky St. Regis hotel, opened with a bugle beaded Chantilly lace and tulle corset gown with feather motif embroidery (feathers and caged birds being a big theme here) -- a little bit speakeasy, a little bit dominatrix, a lot sexy. From there the collection progressed with one look more outrageous than the next. There were corset tops with feather inserts, a midnight blue gown drenched in crystal embroidery and a series of huge ball gowns with hand-cut petal skirts that were positively jaw dropping. One look, a pastel ombre dip-dyed number had a train so long and wide that the model had trouble fitting through the exit door. Despite that, it was all kind of dreamy. Alyssa Milano sat front row, as did Jennifer Hudson who made a ridiculously quick change from the DKNY show an hour before. Both looked smashing in the brand. Bottom line, more is more for these designers and we'll put money on the fact that at least one of these gowns will turn up on the red carpet real soon. -- Anne Bratskeir

Anna Sui

Time to break out your ukulele. Anna Sui
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Frazer Harrison

Time to break out your ukulele. Anna Sui is in a Polynesian frame of mine, as was evident from the palm trees lining the runway, and those first strains of wikki wakki Hawaiian beach music. Starfish, octopus, seashells-- all the aquatic pattern possibilities were covered. Patchwork sundresses with fringe, and a kitschy satin track jacket with mermaid embroidery are just two stand-outs. Some eyelet was thrown in for good measure, not to mention the hibiscus prints on jackets. And then there's the menswear. Every so often, she sent a menswear look down the aisle along with a female model--and of the menswear those tattoo sheer tees--that make it look like you have tats--seems a stroke of genius. But grounding each women's wear outfit were the shoes--colorful wedgies and studded clogs. Whether her version of paradise is yours or not is something yet to be seen. In the meantime-- tune in with Anna Sui to those Elvis beach movies and relax. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Libertine

Back at the official NYFW space on the
Photo Credit: Getty Images

Back at the official NYFW space on the West Side Highway in Soho, Libertine mastermind Johnson Hartig was busy creating a world at once chaotic and completely fun. Mac Cosmetics artist Chantel Miller gave fresh-faced models an ornate, '60s-inspired cat eye and nothing else. Catwalk by TIGI's Thomas Osborn deconstructed their hair into a messy-polished, undone look he calls "out-all-night exuberance." And over in nails, CND co-founder Jan Arnold fitted the models with pre-created ornate manicures inspired by "the ultimate art vandal, Blinky Palermo." On the runway, models donned Hartig's most elaborate designs to date. Brightly colored plastic chains accented everything from jacket sleeves to the lady's Cazabat heeled T-straps. So intricate is this collection that, after the show, Hartig mentioned he even timed the music to the rhythmic clanging of the plastic. Everything -- tailored cream jackets, black slinky dresses, knit purple separates and even a capelet -- was covered in bright sequined patchwork. Hosiery was black and expertly deconstructed. And caftans came in a galaxy print reminiscent of beloved internet memes. On the guys, the look was more frat-raver chic with fluorescent socks and soccer slides (in contrasting colors, naturally) finishing off every look. The piece that kept us dreaming was a fully sequined disco ball track suit which Libertine makes available for both men and women. If stealing the spotlight is your goal, this look is the one for you. -- Delia Paunescu

DKNY

The boys from Public School, Dao-Yi Chow and
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The boys from Public School, Dao-Yi Chow and Max Osborne, debuted their first-ever collection for DKNY on Wednesday, Sept. 16, 2015, in a basement space (gorgeous) under One World Trade Center that boasted a 250-foot runway. Under Donna Karan's watch -- the namesake designer stepped down in June -- the brand was all about the diversity and liveliness of New York City. A letter from the new design duo in the run of show said that "growing up in New York left an indelible impression on us. It seemed the world was our backyard. It gave us every opportunity. To run. To dream..." Clearly their NYC dreams were different than Karan's; the duo seemed bent on creating a new, hip work uniform. Gone was the signature color and the quirkiness and in its place an edgy but austere collection of cool-girl looks. There were many variations on pinstripes in the white, gray and black collection. Jackets had interesting cutaways and back treatments; some looks had backpack straps hanging. There were sheer, jumper-like garments -- one with illusion panels that ran down both sides of the body was very sexy. Will Chow and Osborne woo both existing DKNY customers and new ones with their new view of the brand? We shall see. In the meantime, Karan who was thanked by the new designers in program notes, sat in the audience. -- Anne Bratskeir

J. Crew

J. Crew's president and creative director Jenna Lyons
Photo Credit: Getty Images

J. Crew's president and creative director Jenna Lyons reminded everyone during the spring 2016 presentation what the brand is all about -- classic with a twist of "quirk and sophistication," as stated in the program by Lyons. The presentation was a men's and women's collection combination and was filled with Crew's "fashion DNA" including stripes, chambray, ginghams and of course, impeccable tailoring. Think striped tops, maxi skirts and sequin shorts accessorized with statement jewelry in bright colors like green and coral, for women. For men, unconstructed blazers, cashmere crew neck sweaters, military inspired shorts and vintage chinos ruled the collection. "Orange Is The New Black" stars Taylor Schilling and Lea DeLaria were spotted steps away from comedian and actress Sandra Bernhard. -- Brittany Hamlett-Concepcion

Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra's models didn't walk down a traditional
Photo Credit: Getty Images

Bibhu Mohapatra's models didn't walk down a traditional runway. The show space was so huge that there were at least six models walking it at all times. For spring/summer 2016, the former economist says he was "inspired by the life of Annemarie Schwarzenbach -- a journalist, photographer and style icon of the Bauhaus era." This collection "adds a bold and intrepid dimension to the spirit of the Bibhu woman," with plenty of knee-length or longer gowns. A few bold prints dotted the runway, though most designs remained neutral in pinks, blues, creams and blacks. The shoes were simple, but the hair and makeup definitely were not. Each model had an intricate twist that started at the crown of her head, swept across the back and turned into a tight bun. The hair, done by Amit Abraham for L?Oreal Professionnel, was a nod to Bauhaus, a German art school focused on beautifully completing the work of art. -- Meghan Giannotta

The Parsons School of Design

The Parsons School of Design MFA Catwalk Show
Photo Credit: Meghan Giannotta

The Parsons School of Design MFA Catwalk Show featured designs by more than a dozen of the school's emerging designers. Music, lights and ominous voiceovers set the stage for the dramatic looks that followed. Every time the collection changed, so did the theatrics, giving it the feel of a dozen mini runway shows in one. From N.W.A's "Straight Outta Compton" to snippets of interviews with the designers, the audience got an earful. And for the eyes, there was an edgy geometric collection by Long XU and a more laid-back collection of sweaters, leggings and turtlenecks by Varpu Rapheli. But what really stole the show were such head-turners as dresses made entirely of garbage bags, umbrellas, bath mats and jewelry holders. The models all had slicked-back hair paired with natural makeup, a necessity with everything else going on. -- Meghan Giannotta

Michael Kors

It was a case of opposites attracting at
Photo Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim

It was a case of opposites attracting at Michael Kors' morning show at Spring Studios, where relaxed tailoring met up with a little romance to great effect. Those signature lean Kors silos loosened up with drapey tops, floral embroideries, bell-shaped skirts and slouchy pants. The palette got its kick from blasts of crimson and lapis blue but was grounded in earthy colors such as sand, nutmeg and vanilla. One look, a casual ribbed tank with a black skirt scattered with flowers, had a hipster-haute street vibe, while others went all-out ladylike, such as the tissue-weight lace and silk dresses that revealed a little skin. Kors' wrapped-up girls love a touch of sex appeal, shown here in the form of fitted cropped cashmere turtlenecks paired with buckled briefs. Fabrics were worked over -- frayed, crinkled and crushed -- to evoke that particular Kors nonchalance. Amid the sweetness, a little city edge was evoked by heavy-duty doses of grommet embellishment.  And sleeves were a focus -- flowy in the case of silk georgette poet blouses, fluttery lantern sleeves and oversized man-tailored jobs with long cuffs that went over the hand. In the model lineup, Kendall Jenner and boy model sensation, 17-year-old Lucky Blue Smith. (Kors showed a smattering of menswear.) Front rowers included Olivia Wilde, Naomi Watts and Lily Aldridge, along with everybody's favorite, Joan Kors, Michael's mama.  -- Anne Bratskeir 

AllSaints

AllSaints SS16 collection offered a liberating
Photo Credit: Getty Images

AllSaints SS16 collection offered a liberating "It's up to you" theme, contrasting to a somewhat stifling rigidness inherent to New York Fashion Week. Male and female models dressed themselves as they saw fit with ready-to-wear pieces and shoes from the new collection. Lounging near TV screens with footage showing the looks out in NYC, models doodled or read books of their choosing, all while posing in loungewear-esque streetwear: light denim skirts and shirts, free-flowing layered dresses and blouses and plenty of skinny jeans for men. The presentation ran for eight hours. Good thing the models brought entertainment! -- Melissa Kravitz

Carmen Marc Valvo

Carmen Marc Valvo has long been the master
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Frazer Harrison

Carmen Marc Valvo has long been the master of the evening dress -- his elegant designs form-flatterer for women of many sizes and shapes. He simply knows how to fit a woman's body. And there were plenty of glorious Zen-garden inspired designs to lust for at his Tuesday afternoon show. To start with short, sexy cocktails in black, white and red, some in pebbly textures, several embellished with python, the best of these boasting a sculptural racer back. In the mix, Valvo's swimwear -- a significant business for the designer -- these maillots with origami cuts in the back some with zippers. For evening, languid dragon fly printed silk pajamas, a killer poppy pleated gown with a koi print and several other flowing stunners that will make strong entrances and exits as billowy folds of chiffon trailed gracefully as the models sauntered down the runway. In the house, an "Orange is the New Black" posse, Vanessa Williams who recently married in a Valvo gown, Alec Baldwin and his wife Hilaria along with baby Rafeal who she was bottle feeding front row, and a very friendly Whoopi Goldberg. And lest we forget to mention, it's not just about the girls for Valvo. He has recently started to dabble in menswear and this season he presented a very strong collection. So strong in fact, that celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch was wowed. "You'll be seeing me wearing that real soon," he said on the way out. -- Anne Bratskeir

Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez certainly knows his way around a
Photo Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim

Narciso Rodriguez certainly knows his way around a woman's body. Once the king of body con, the designer has in various seasons played with volume, offering fuller silhouettes. This season it seems he's split the difference--the overall look is loose, unfettered, yet still giving a sense of a woman's curves underneath. Sleeveless crepe sack dresses that hit below the knee--one in amber, another in plum with a swirl of orange-- were sexy but allow a woman some room to breathe. A light-weight trench coat floated like a boyfriend's oversized white oxford shirt, and an alabaster sleeveless dress in linen tweed and silk chiffon (it's apparently reversible) unfurled as the model strode down the runway like a sail in the breeze. More unfurling came from one-shouldered dresses (in pale pink or a black sateen like shiny leather) with slashed, asymmetric hems, or the white bias-cut dresses with a strip of embroidery or a stripe or two of color streaked down the front--like streamers rippling over the body. These pieces have movement, giving the effect that you're really going places, even if it's just crossing the room. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Milly

To see Milly's SS16 collection, almost everyone got
Photo Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim

To see Milly's SS16 collection, almost everyone got a front-row seat! Milly arranged diagonal benches throughout ArtBeam Studios on Sept. 15, giving models a sharp-cornered runway that echoed some of the cuts of clothing on the catwalk. Designer and founder Michelle Smith called the collection "Modern Love" and portrayed "a sensual juxtaposition of soft and structured, refined and organic, sleek and undone." Thirty-eight looks included navy and gray denim shirts and skirts; printed tops and matching culottes; and a range of dresses, from mini to maxi, clingy to flowy. Models wore their hair slicked back and sported natural makeup and nails, allowing the textures and shapes of each outfit to star. After the finale, Smith walked the elongated runway with her son and daughter, to much applause. -- Melissa Kravitz

Alice + Olivia

An
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Rob Kim

An "Inner Goddess" inspired Alice and Olivia's SS16 collection. Think Stacey Bendet watched "Fifty Shades of Grey" a few too many times? "Shades of chambray denim" were a dominant color palate in the collection, along with poppy red, aqua, and black-and-white patterns. Against an "urban-inspired desert," the deities presented a collection including brightly beaded jackets, pants and dresses iconic to the designer along with chic embellished denim pants, flowing goddess-like gowns and high-laced gold gladiator sandals. Accessories were key in presenting the collection: Side hobo bags, beaded clutches, dramatic floppy hats and, of course, metallic crowns accentuated outfits. Anastasia Steele's inner goddess wasn't present, but models shined in glitter manicures by NailsInc, metallic eye makeup by Stila and slightly teased, flowing braids and Afros styled by Marshall Lin for Fekkai.  -- Melissa Kravitz

Tory Burch

Tory Burch's breezy collection of easy- to-wear pieces
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Slaven Vlasic

Tory Burch's breezy collection of easy- to-wear pieces was all about "beauty found in unexpected places" said program notes, and along those same lines, it encompassed unexpected combinations. Some of the most interesting looks revolved around shorts, a bigger- than- ever trend this season. A lush blue side-split tunic dress trimmed with red embroidery topped lace shorts, and in another ensemble, bands of crystal elevated a green burlap shorts suit. There were Boho smocked pieces and swishy caftans -- perfect throw-ons; crisp whites; loads of fringe and for evening shimmering iridescent dresses and tops. Burch offers up a signature shoe each season, this one a knock-out with its sculptural gold heel, originally inspired by a slice of natural bark. -- Anne Bratskeir

Morgane Le Fay

Le Fay played with the juxtaposition of a
Photo Credit: Getty Images

Le Fay played with the juxtaposition of a large, industrial space by pairing it with cloud-shaped tulle, which adorned the white loft ceilings. With the sunset shining over Chelsea Piers, and through the tall windows, the scene further set with soft, ethereal music and a flowery scent, it was impossible not to feel as if you were floating on a cloud. The "Everything Blooming" collection was dominated by flower-like designs including voile dresses with smocked necks in organza, chiffon and cotton. A muted palette of ivory, indigo, iris and black, mimicking the first spring bloom of the crocus, was seen in a chiffon tulle gown with the sculptural skirt. Overall, this spring collection had a very cool-girl vibe, with every look paired with No. 6 black booties -- perfect for the early spring chill. -- Brittany Hamlett-Concepcion

Badgley Mischka

The boys at Badgley Mischka are known for
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The boys at Badgley Mischka are known for their formal red carpet looks, these often drenched in sparkle, dripping in crystal and encrusted with jewels. For spring, while no less glamorous, they lightened up. The lineup was inspired, said Mark Badgley, by "Buenos Aires 1950's, the chicest women in the world." The show opened with a nubby short set -- one of several takes on shorts in the collection -- some paired with tops that boasted fringed sparkly bibs -- so fun, spirited and cool. Other looks included bold flowers on silken dresses. A white number with cutouts at the waist was embellished at the neckline with jet beads. Graphic golden butterflies fluttered across sheer dresses, and one saucy coral number glowed amidst a sea of whites, pale blue, gold and blush. Not to worry red carpet types -- there were still a few razzle dazzle numbers -- a gold beaded gown that looked like an Oscar statuette was duly noted by the label's A-list client Helen Mirren who sat rapt front row and took plenty of photos of the runway on her phone. --Anne Bratskeir

Zac Posen

Zac Posen's Monday night show in Vanderbilt Hall
Photo Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim

Zac Posen's Monday night show in Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Station may well have been one of his best. Having watched the evolution of Posen from his very first show in 2002 when the models (supermodels like Naomi Campbell) walked for the then 21-year-old wunderkind for free, this collection underscored his significant talent and his maturity. This was dialed back Zac. An almost stark palette of white, black and navy offered up only one bolt of color: a red strapless dress. Gone for the most part, those signature 40's style red carpet gowns with exaggerated silhouettes. There were a couple of variations on that theme in the 40-look lineup, one, a navy number with an oval structured bodice that resembled a breastplate and another, a navy silk satin asymmetrical gown -- both read modern and powerful. Much of the collection dealt with lightness and fluidity and amidst some startlingly spare and beautiful evening looks -- a handful embellished with crystal hashtags -- there was a fair amount of daywear. Posen interspersed it throughout the show and applied the same intricate tailoring techniques to both categories. There were smart dark separates that boasted just the tiniest touch of sparkle in the form of glass beads; crisp white ensembles that appeared to stand off the body; a loose black gown got its kick from razor slim slits that revealed red beneath and several pieces amped up with mesh inserts. A stellar front row included Jennifer Hudson, Amy Schumer and Christina Hendricks. The perfect audience for a stellar show. -- Anne Bratskeir

Rag & Bone

All the way to...Brooklyn? Enticing Manhattan's fashionable set
Photo Credit: Getty Images

All the way to...Brooklyn? Enticing Manhattan's fashionable set to the hinterlands isn't easy. (Okay, it was just St. Ann's Warehouse, a performance space by the Brooklyn Bridge.) But one makes allowances for R&B's David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, who know how to throw a party. They welcomed attendees with beer, sliders and snacks ("I call these 'model fries'" one waiter said, handing out cups of extra-skinny French fries). The laid-back vibe was echoed in the clothes, a 1990s-ish sporty-street mix--rib knits (with necklines slipped off one shoulder), oversized sateen bombers and field jackets, some army surplus thrown in, plus high-top sneakers and flat sandals. (Ahh, a line you can actually walk in.) Accessories fanatics will scoop up the gold hoop earrings, and the square, portfolio-like pilot bag. For local color, the brand tapped teen members of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus to perform a haunting, original soundtrack by Radiohead's Thom Yorke. Given the standard club beats played at most shows, it was another example of how this label thinks, as they say, outside the box. (Not to mention the borough.) --Joseph V. Amodio

Karen Walker

Over by the piers on the west side,
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Joe Kohen

Over by the piers on the west side, Karen Walker showed her SS16 collection before a bevy of fashion it-girls. Everyone who's anyone on the blogosphere turned up, from Tales of Endearment's Natalie Joos to All the Pretty Birds' Tamu McPherson, The Glamourai's Erin Framel to DJ Chelsea Leyland. Just about the entire masthead of Refinery29 turned up too. And even The Fat Jew sat front row with beloved pooch (and one-time Karen Walker Eyewear campaign star) Toast in tow. As for the fashion, Walker's "folk-meets-utility-meets-glam" aesthetic was inspired by Star City, a translation for the Soviet Union's secret training base outside Moscow from where Yuri Gagarin became the first man launched into space. Fittingly, it's also the name of the New Zealand designer's current collection. The quite literally star-studded collection stayed true to a particular Russian folksiness.Think rib knit long-sleeve tops with an almost Victorian "frill neck" collar paired with a tomato red pleated skirt and topped with a scarf tied at the neck. A black and white checkered coat in an almost deconstructed pattern is completely refreshing alongside a structured pant. Acid washed denim smock dresses go with oversized round sunglasses and gold lace-up oxfords. Parachute pants and jackets are so tailored, you'll forget all about their massive rave style counterparts. The real showstopper is a flowy silk dress in a brushed gold "earth" tone that's sure to make all the bloggers drool come spring. Meanwhile, a pair of gold lambskin "mission pants" should keep you warm for those cold Russian nights. -- Delia Paunescu

Tommy Hilfiger

You may not be able to get down
Photo Credit: EPA / PETER FOLEY

You may not be able to get down to the Caribbean but--no worries--Tommy Hilfiger is bringing the lush, laid-back, tropical island style straight to you. And to Fashion Week, where at his show on a Lower East Side pier he created a lagoon, complete with sand, palm trees and bar in a beachside hut. The collection itself is full of Technicolor tantalizers from the flowing dresses in vibrant stripes and florals to the sun-bleached faded denim. Expect sweet island touches--Oxford shirts with eyelet, polos in netted mesh, crocheted cricket sweaters and multicolor bucket hats. And there's a great satin track jacket emblazoned with "Mustique" on the back. Hilfiger may've saved the best for last--Gigi Hadid came out in a patchwork print maxi dress with crocheted halter top that screams Kate Hudson or...well, Gigi Hadid. But wait-- just in case there was someone out there not yet in the island mood, a group of models in super-sexy bikinis rushed back out and jumped into the lagoon, splashing their way from one end to the other. Island hopping never looked so good. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera's collection, aimed she said,
Photo Credit: Getty images

Carolina Herrera's collection, aimed she said, "to keep a little mystery." In fact, it was a big mystery as to the location of the show, "a secret," she said until the date neared. And it was spectacular: The Garden Court at the Frick Collection on e. 70th Street. The press sat on marble benches surrounding the atrium-topped garden as models wearing black, white and mostly shades of rose -- from blush to fuchsia -- sashayed by, only inches away. Here was an opportunity to get up close to the craftsmanship and beauty of Herrera's work. The clothes were sensual, seductive but as Herrera said in notes, "I always leave something for the imagination. Fashion is, after all, about fantasy." A rosy short slip topped with a floaty organza high-low gown fit the fantasy bill and conjured fairy tales. Several looks were constructed of silk and sheer fabric giving the illusion of showing skin but not too much. A sculptured top over a graphic ball skirt allowed just the slightest glimpse of tummy and a white gown that remotely resembled overalls (what?), featured sheer fabric on the sides and a crystal belt. "Come hither," said these clothes in a whisper. -- Anne Bratskeir

Prabal Gurung

A note in Prabal Gurung's run of show
Photo Credit: Getty Images

A note in Prabal Gurung's run of show described the designer's anguish after the massive earthquake in Nepal -- he has been a committed fundraiser for relief efforts -- and a group of chanting, red-robed monks opened his show. One would expect this to foreshadow a somber runway -- the chanting was a poignant moment in fashion -- but in fact, Gurung's show burst with energy, luxury and beauty. The designer referred to Nepal with color; vivid rose, jasmine, lemon and saffron, turned out on slim slip dresses. It was the fabric more than the silo that commanded interest--hand-cutting, laser cuts, pleating -- along with painterly brushstrokes. One look, a slouchy, cream cashmere sweater with sexy shoulder cutouts and accents of saffron and jet sort of summed up the easy glamour of Gurung's spring collection. Not so easy? Kylie Jenner's glam. Her seatmate and apparent stylist held up his hand like a policeman to stop the voracious paparazzi from taking her photo. He then delicately smoothed one strand of her hair. The hand went down, the flashes went off. She wasn't the only photo magnet in the crowd. Jennifer Hudson, Dwyane Wade, Gabrielle Union and Laverne Cox shared the front row but without hair-smoothing stylists. --Anne Bratskeir

Diane von Furstenberg

The
Photo Credit: Getty images

The "Modern Romantic" was Diane von Furstenberg's notion at her Spring Studio show on Sunday afternoon. A lineup of models in flirty, mega-accessorized looks wore tailored tweed pieces in pastel colors shot with metallic thread that could go to the office as easily as they could top jeans. There were prints galore (of course), wrap dresses (check) and streamlined separates, along with flowy maxis stamped with gold, the mashup of disco girl meets flower child. But truth told, while there were a few extremes (perhaps the golden bra beneath a matching bomber would have a more specific market), there's was plenty to play a sensible role in closets everywhere. As for the celeb scene, Kate Upton was clearly the paparazzi magnet in her DVF white pantsuit. The jacket barely closed and she wore no shirt beneath prompting one veteran photog to extoll the joys of his job. Other front rowers included super model Karolina Kurkova sporting a substantial baby bump and wearing cobalt DVF and Nicky Hilton who usually attends the show with sis Paris, though she was a no-show. Models' wavy hair, was, according to the folks at hair product company TRESemme, inspired by von Furstenberg's own photos of herself in the 1970's. These days, she said in notes, "I love seeing all the girls head out at night with their natural waves fresh from the beach, just tucked behind their ear with a flower."--Anne Bratskeir

Christian Siriano

The Scene: The open square runway made it
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The Scene: The open square runway made it easy for all attendees to have a 360-degree view of the Spring 2106 collection. With top 40 hits like Adam Lambert's "Ghost Town" playing the background, dim lighting and a sandy, shaded runway, the vibe was high-energy and fresh. Celebrity attendees included Alicia Silverstone, Christina Hendricks and Laura Prepon The Clothes: Siriano took guests on a magic carpet ride through the Sahara Desert as a nod to, as stated in the program as the inspiration for the collection, the "Feast of the Throne" in Marrakech. The romantic and feminine collection featured several easy runway-to-street transitional separates including wide leg trousers, silk scarves and midi handkerchief dresses and skirts. The color palette was filled with refreshing creams and sandy khakis for daytime separates and sunset blushes for the evening wear. Wish List Pick: Bright color lovers are dared-to-wear the finale look: a sunrise marigold silk pleated gown complete with a cape and headscarf. The look adds the perfect touch of glamour to your summer evening wardrobe. -- Brittany Hamlett Concepcion

Elie Tahari

The Scene: Complete with a desert background, round
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The Scene: Complete with a desert background, round metallic furnishings, and blood orange glowing walls transported guests to a desert sunset. The incense of Elie Tahari candle, set to debut in December, complimented the space by giving a desert rose scent. The cool and collected Mr. Tahari described this spring collection as "a futuristic nomad crossing the desert." The Clothes: The collection was full of sleek, modern and minimalist silhouettes like cropped jackets layered over crotchet knits and flowing maxi dresses. The mixed media of the sheer overlay against frayed edged fabrics in silk, lace and crinkled chiffon was a perfect juxtaposition that was beautifully demonstrated in the white twill trench with lace applique sleeves, worn by the legendary Pat Cleveland. Dare-to-Bare: It looks like the gladiator shoe trend is here to stay! What's the upgrade? The must-have pair in all white complete with tassels. -- Brittany Hamlett Concepcion

Edun

To the cynical, Edun might've seemed like just
Photo Credit: Getty Images

To the cynical, Edun might've seemed like just another vanity label when it was first founded by Bono and Ali Hewson in 2005. The brand's purpose, they said, was to promote African craftsmanship and trade. A decade later, Edun is still around (now designed by creative director Danielle Sherman) and true to its roots. The spring collection was inspired by intricate textiles of the Kuba people--aka "the people of the cloth"--from Central Africa, in what is now the (war-torn) Democratic Republic of the Congo. Key pieces included off-the-shoulder tops, massive box-pleat pants and a fringe jumpsuit, and featured elements from all over the African map--brocade from Morocco, macramé from Madagascar, a new handbag line made entirely in South Africa, and from Guinea in West Africa three master drummers, who performed live during the show. The men, members of Wula Drum, a Long Island City-based drum-making group, kept the models marching in rhythm...and toes tapping in the audience. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Tracy Reese

The scene: It always seems like a party
Photo Credit: Bruce Gilbert

The scene: It always seems like a party pre-show at Tracy Reese. There's a swirl of air kissing and hugs from the designer's friends and followers; big name stylists --in this case Ty Hunter (think Beyoncé) and June Ambrose (think Mary J. Blige) -- and on Sunday afternoon, Sarah Jessica Parker joined the crew. Dressed in an embellished black Tracy Reese dress and her SJP Collection shoes-- these ultra sparkly, well she wasn't alone in the shoe department. The models all wore various styles in an SJP x Tracy Reese collaboration. The clothes: The kicks were cool-- especially a PVC bootie, clear plastic layered over a print, that matched up with a few looks from Reese's ebullient runway--a study in transparency and shine. A smoky PVC shift topped a plaid slip-- such an alluring look (and probably would fend of showers) while a number of humble silos, such as a sweatshirt, were elevated by their sheerness. Gloriously colorful dresses -- some in tropical prints, others in lush tones of yellow, red and green -- were divine. There was enough shimmer to light the night-- a tee shirt was bathed in sequins and several dresses were dappled with crystals. A golden beaded linen coat made the must-have list. Happiness is: Being Sarah Jessica Parker and seeing your shoes stalk the catwalk. She was beaming. -- Anne Bratskeir

Rachel Zoe

Maybe it's a genetic thing-- that special
Photo Credit: Instagram user joe_amodio

Maybe it's a genetic thing-- that special "it" quality that draws you to certain people--and whatever it is Rachel Zoe's got it. The stylist-turned-designer held a jam-packed presentation of her spring collection, showcasing her signature '70s-boho-girl-with-attitude looks. Zoe pulls off that vibe effortlessly herself, and her collections radiate the feeling that maybe you're getting away with swiping something from her closet. Like the white suit belted with a long corded tassel--the bra top and peasant skirt combos--the off-the-shoulder tops or that fringe coat with Jesus sandals. Not for everyone, but the crush of fans with phones raised high desperate to get a shot of her prove the brand remains strong. Wait--can't you hear that cash register? Ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching...--Joseph V. Amodio

Derek Lam

The name Nina Simone gets invoked a lot
Photo Credit: EPA / JASON SZENES

The name Nina Simone gets invoked a lot these days--say you're into the iconic singer and civil-rights activist and it's code for instant cool. Or so you hope. In lesser hands a fashion collection inspired by Simone might come off as gimmicky (or--worse--lame) but when a craftsman like Derek Lam does it you take notice. "A bold siren...but tender as a bruise," he said, describing her in program notes. His looks were equal parts bold (the oversized fluted sleeves, super-feminine trumpet skirts, the suede tunic with long tassels) and tender (lots of sheer lace). And if you're in the market for a jumpsuit (crepe or technical stretch) or a fab coat (suede, graphic hair calf, or flowing cloth coats edged with fringe down the front placket), Lam's got you covered. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Public School

It was a major, star-studded scene at the
Photo Credit: Bruce Gilbert

It was a major, star-studded scene at the morning show of fashion darlings and "it" designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the guys behind the pistol-hot Public School label. Everyone from Common to Renee Elise Goldsberry of Broadway hit "Hamilton", to Ciara to NBA star Russell Westbrook watched rapt as the duo sent their fluid, surprisingly sporty lineup down the runway. Predominantly black and white and blue all over, there was a bright stripe or two, a painterly print along with a stunning bird and feather motif... covetable. Silhouettes were generally elongated with body skimming vests layered atop dresses and slouchy pants, though a few short, perky looks would look right at home at the U.S. Open. There was movement to the fabric-- crepe, organza, nylon -- hems went airborne, long tops fluttered gracefully. And somehow the designers managed to imbue a street savvy into a collection with distinctively exotic overtones. After the show, Common said, "I loved it. These guys are incredible. It all bodes very well for later this week when Chow and Osborne present their first collection as creative directors for DKNY. They've got the cool factor. According to Chow's mom, who spoke before the show, her son's success is "Pure luck," she said adding, "He really loves people." The feeling is definitely mutual. -- Anne Bratskeir

Alexander Wang

The scene: Party on the pier! The stars
Photo Credit: EPA / PETER FOLEY

The scene: Party on the pier! The stars showed up-- including Lady Gaga, Kanye West, Nicki Minaj, Mary J. Blige, reality vixen Kylie Jenner and rapper-boyfriend, Tyga, socialite Bella Hadid and her rapper boyfriend, The Weeknd-- at a hangar on Pier 94 along the Hudson River not just to view Alexander Wang's spring collection but to celebrate his 10 years in the biz. And-- given his meteoric rise and considerable influence in the industry-- what a decade it's been. The clothes: Sporty and street, with a collection rich in track pants, army and moto jackets, slinky slip dresses and even some kitschy silk pajama tops. The cropped satin bomber will likely sell out fast, ditto the faded denim and net tanks. And then there's the menswear-- his first ever collection-- which went heavy on hip-hop looks (the hoodie, oversized tees and a pretty fab pair of jet-black overalls). And the pole dancers? Yes, there were pole dancers: Wang proved he can party with the best of 'em. After the models did their final walk, as an encore Wang screened an adrenaline-fueled quick film with a collage of rapid-fire images-- ads, documentary footage and video clips of his runway shows from the last 10 years. Then a wall opened up, revealing a party room beyond, complete with flashing lights, a DJ spinning pounding beats, and pole dancers--six women, six poles, and an infinite number of body positions that gravity tends to discourage. And to prove the man thinks of everything--even the pole oil spray bottles were branded with Wang's face on them. The party went on for hours. Happy anniversary, sir. Here's to the next incredible decade. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Altuzarra

The clothes: Looking to his family's Basque heritage,
Photo Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim

The clothes: Looking to his family's Basque heritage, designer Joseph Altuzarra offered up a collection of linen and burlap, wrinkled and textured fabrics that suggest a sort of ease and unfettered dressing. But he infused his pieces with an elegance all his own. Ceramic glazes inspired a series of vivid, tie-dye-like prints on hand-painted dresses and separates. And mother-of-pearl buttons were scattered on coats and tops like sequins. But it's the way the pieces were worn-- a black gauzy shirtdress that seemed pulled to one side, or the voluminous tops worn slightly off the shoulder or slouched back-- that gave the feeling of those languid hot days of summer. The high slits on dresses and skirts steamed things up as well. The bags: Two new entries in his handbag collection debuted here-- a tote and a shoulder bag with a braid, tasseled and chain strap. The shoes, oh, the shoes: For you shoe lovers out there (and we know there must be a few), Altuzarra has come up with a whole new concept in footwear: a sling-back shape, with thick espadrille lacing that wraps round the ankle. Sling-drille? Espa-back? They look great, but be sure to tie the laces with care. In a few cases, the laces came undone, and were trailing behind the models as they completed their spin down the runway. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Pamella Roland

The scene: Arty-- literally. Pamella Roland was the
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Fernando Leon

The scene: Arty-- literally. Pamella Roland was the first-ever designer to hold a runway show at the new Whitney Museum of American Art, opened this past spring on the High Line promenade. Sniff and you can still detect a whiff of that new museum smell. The clothes: Well suited to the locale, given Roland's inspiration: the colors and clean geometric lines of the minimalist painter Frank Stella. His grid patterns appeared in multicolored sequins, scattered across shoulders or hips on a dress or top. And origami folds brought precision to elegant gowns and cocktail dresses. The futuristic fabric: Silk? Organza? Please. Roland experimented with all kinds of unexpected materials?reflective taffeta, LED fibers, Plexiglass-- which seemed swiped from the closets of Jane and Judy Jetson. Some looked, well, cool. Others, plasticky-- and begging the question, "Yeah, but is that comfortable?" Adventurous glamour queens--like Mary J. Blige, sitting front row--will no doubt be eager to find out. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Herve Leger

The scene: This year, designers Max and Lubov
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Frazer Harrison

The scene: This year, designers Max and Lubov Azria took us down memory lane with 30 signature looks from 2009 to the present, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Herve Legere line-- and, of course, the iconic bandage dresses. It was a star-studded event, with famous faces including former supermodel Beverly Johnson, actress Victoria Justice, and Dorinda Medley, a cast member of "The Real Housewives of New York." The clothes: Leger upgrades the bandage construction with texture twists like knotting, macrame, and intricate applique work in elegant spring neutrals including alabaster, manila and blush like the alabaster woven moto jacket. (Dying!) Perfect for the ongoing all-white-everything trend. Whoops?!: Dorinda Medley and her beau, John Mahdessian, arrived minutes before the show started, but from across the runway, it looked like her seats had been given to someone else. The couple eventually settled in the third row.-- Brittany Hamlett-Concepcion

Rebecca Minkoff

The Scene: Super cool and packed to the
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The Scene: Super cool and packed to the rafters, Minkoff provided the clothes and the music, by a live band called the Borns, rocked the house. The Clothes: This designer is a devoted fan of the 60s and this show, dedicated to the decade and rock 'n' roller Marianne Faithfull, was no exception. The lineup read tough but sweet with floor- sweeping maxis that billowed and exposed the shoulders to cool shorts studded with grommets and plenty of fringe. It was one of those moments when edgy and pretty were not mutually exclusive. Added Interest: Amped-up accessories, as in wearable technology, turned up on Minkoff's runway -- she's devoted to the category -- and one model carried a phone-charging wristlet . In the works, a wallet that combines an iPhone case and battery charger and the first collection of designer Apple watch compatible bands, along with cross-body iPhone holders for, the millennial generation. -- Anne Bratskeir

Jill Stuart

The scene: The high wattage front row at
Photo Credit: Bruce Gilbert

The scene: The high wattage front row at Stuart's Saturday morning show included Zoisa Mamet, Bella Thorne, musician Jesse Jo Stark and Solange Knowles (not talking to the press, not allowing photos and not wearing Jill Stuart) -- all perfect customers for the young, flirty brand. The Clothes: Program notes provided the vibe -- Dancey, electric, sheeny, trippy, magnetic. Dancey indeed. The clothes conjured the disco era with whippet slim high-waisted, pants -- some with slit legs, billowy floor-length dresses and fitted, knee-grazing skirts topped by built-in bra tube tops or in one case a saucy little flouncy bandeau. The final look, a tiered, black, sparkly mini dress begged for a beat on the dance floor. Duly Noted: A killer maxi coat of black leather sparkled -- fierce, feminine and fabulous. -- Anne Bratskeir

Pyer Moss

Kerby Jean-Raymond, the designer behind Pyer Moss, presented
Photo Credit: Getty Images

Kerby Jean-Raymond, the designer behind Pyer Moss, presented a line inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 on Thursday, September 10, 2015. Before the show began, he played a 10-minute video featuring footage of the Walter Scott incident in South Carolina and protests highlighting police brutality. It ended with Eric Garner in a chokehold saying, "I can't breathe." Those final words were mirrored through his Spring 2016 designs that crossed the runway soon after. Jean-Raymond's collection included jackets and sneakers with "I can't breathe" and simply "Breathe Breathe Breathe" written on them in a spray paint effect. -- Meghan Giannotta

Givenchy

The scene: On the 14th anniversary of 9/11,
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: On the 14th anniversary of 9/11, this show was held at Pier 26 backdropped by a beam of blue light shooting into the night sky from the Freedom Tower. The open-air set featured a serpentine runway built of recycled materials including humble, wooden pallets stacked for seated guests. (Seated being the operative word. There were hundreds standing, many of whom were awarded free tickets to coincide with the opening of the new Givenchy store on Madison Avenue). Artist Marina Abramovic was hired to create the environment that included several symbolic installations such as one performance artist stationed on a sky high platform with water flowing through a giant spigot to "cleanse the spirit," according to notes. A musical score that encompassed six different cultures and religions played as models walked. And then, of course, there were the stars -- some of the biggest names around, including Nikki Minaj, Julia Roberts (who wore a shirt emblazoned with Tisci's face) and Steven Tyler with daughter Liv. But the show couldn't begin (and people waited more than an hour from call time) until the Wests arrived. Yup, that would be Kanye and Kim, who was dressed in an outrageously see-through Givenchy number that gave a very clear view of her substantial baby bump. The Clothes: Some 84-looks for men and women included languid lingerie-inspired pieces in silk and lace that featured floor-grazing straps and somehow had a tailored edge; signature tuxedo jackets along with a series of textural and wildly imaginative gowns, a handful worn with glittering face masks evoking a high-end masquerade ball. One, prompting gasps from the audience, boasted cascading mounds of three-dimensional tulle and, another featured a cage-like overdress that housed a globe shaped underskirt. Kendall Jenner walked in one of the looks. As for the men, all of whom had gleaming, oiled hair, it was perfectly fitted dark suits and tuxedos, some dressy tuxedo shorts and even a crisp, white lace top. The Bottom Line: Tisci and the fabled French house managed to straddle the wide divide between tragedy and celebration treating the day with the utmost sensitivity and respect but also delivering a show that was, in the truest sense of the word, awesome. -- Anne Bratskeir

Nicole Miller

For her SS16 collection, Nicole Miller presented Street
Photo Credit: Brian Ach / Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

For her SS16 collection, Nicole Miller presented Street Sweet - a colorful romp into the (albeit fairly tame) back alleys of a slightly more punk downtown. Models showed off a collection "inspired by the contrasts of New York streets" and with a heavy dose of bright prints seen once upon a time in the Big Apple -- think way back to 2014, when graffiti school 5 Pointz was still around. Keeping with a fairly neutral palette of white, black and grey, the collection builds with touches of colorful spray-paint inspired prints. Be it a breezy off-the-shoulder blouse paired with a dark jean or a black graphic design running down the middle of a white sheath dress, the looks are still fairly polished with just a touch of street. It's perhaps fitting that a child breakdancer opened the show. If her collection is meant to (as the promotional material suggests) highlight "the grit" of New York, this is certainly the tamest version thereof. And for all those wondering if the skinny jean is really dead: fear not. Miller believes we'll all be back in skinny cargos by spring. -- Delia Paunescu

Zang Toi

At Zang Toi, a show so revered that
Photo Credit: Fernanda Calfat

At Zang Toi, a show so revered that both Patti LaBelle and Ivana Trump showed up on a Friday night, the crowd was certainly the main attraction. Besides the two grand dames, Miss Universe sat near several Real Housewives. Across the runway, ladies from "Orange is the New Black" ooh-ed at the collection. For SS16, Toi created a collection around the "Splendor of Santorini." Relying on old school glamour and the serious drama only a majorly wide-brimmed hat can provide, looks ranged from all-white structured cotton tunics, to embroidered knits, and even lush, half-sequined statement coats. The color palette remained simple, keeping mainly with the navy, turquoise and emerald found near the Aegean. The real spectacle came at the show's close, featuring gowns with gorgeously beaded crop bodices attached to sheer full skirts, under which live more modest mini skirts. Between the twirling and the sparkles was a vision in tulle. No wonder Ms. LaBelle high-fived the designer as he walked the runway. Following the show, TV star Diane Guerrero told us she loved the collection. "I have visions of wearing a lot it someday but everything would have to be significantly hemmed for me," she said. "I especially loved the pantsuits. I loved all the white." -- Delia Paunescu

Jason Wu

The scene: Spring Studios, the downtown venue with
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Spring Studios, the downtown venue with massive windows and tons of light, and with the new Freedom Tower standing tall in the distance. It was a subtle and poignant reminder that today is September 11. It was a very different Fashion Week 14 years ago. The clothes: Glamour with an edge -- a fringed one, as in the dresses, jackets and tops that opened the show, in verdant teal green, with raw-edged capelets swirling round shoulders. Perfect for Wu's fashionista gals who want to feel a little cozy when they step out the door. The cropped knit top with short shorts would be another smart choice. The bare necessities: You may feel a chill coming on with many of Wu's uber-sexy dresses--especially those spaghetti strap numbers with bare shoulders and backs. Have a wrap on hand. Or prepare to bare--you're guaranteed a dramatic exit. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Betsey Johnson

The scene: Typically raucous, the front row was
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Typically raucous, the front row was filled with "Orange is the New Black" stars including Jackie Cruz who said that her mom almost named her Betsey after Johnson because she liked the designer's clothes so much. Show ended as always, with the designer's amazing cartwheel and split. Standing O. The clothes: What can we say? Signature Betsey including poodle skirts, sequins, hot pants and zoot suits with a bellman's uniform or two. She visited every decade. Swan song: Word on the street is that this may well be Johnson's last show as she heads to Cali to be with her grandkids. Sure hope not. -- Anne Bratskeir

POLO Ralph Lauren

The coolest cocktail party of Spring 2016 already
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The coolest cocktail party of Spring 2016 already happened. POLO Ralph Lauren hosted its SS16 presentation on the rooftop of Gallow Green. Guests with names like Preston and Barret shook hands while prestine-looking models mingled in POLO's newest collection. Surrounded by lush floral arrangements and glasses of chilled wine, models posed in bright floral sundresses, striped suits and classic cableknits and polo shirts for men. Servers in the brand's iconic polos doled out bites inspired by the fashionable Polo Bar, including Ralph's favorite corned beef on rye and a pop-up iced coffee bad that was more than welcomed by exhausted editors and buyers. -- Melissa Kravitz

Kate Spade New York

NYC skipped fall and winter as Kate Spade
Photo Credit: Melissa Kravitz

NYC skipped fall and winter as Kate Spade whisked guests into a floral, springtime tea party for her SS16 presentation. Guests were treated to champagne with swirly straws and bagels with cream cheese served by Kate Spade aproned servers/models. Tres New York! The clothes: Floral patterns and adornments on cocktail dresses, wicker purses in playful shapes like puppies and beehives and studded stilettos in a variety of heights and colors defined Kate Spade's new collection. Dream spring: Deborah Lloyd, president of Kate Spade says the season "begins at the intersections of daydreams and day trips." Citing inspiration from the 28th Street flower district to a local bodega, spring 2016 is set to be about whimsy, but also grounded -- as seen in the form of the paper coffee cups also used at the elegant presentation. -- Melissa Kravitz

Wes Gordon

The scene: Real deal fashion types gathered at
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Real deal fashion types gathered at this early a.m. runway downtown with Gabrielle Union making a late appearance. The clothes: Sexy cutout shoulders meshed with crisp tailoring. There were savory plaids in marigold and brown, and a series of feminine cornflower blue lacy looks. Glittering chain accents amped up a dress and a top and many hems read like modified tutus -- mega-pleated in pearlized chiffon. Our take: Swanky yet restrained, with serious doses of cool-girl, there were many a lust-worthy item here including the long, lean, lightweight leather vest -- on the must-have list. -- Anne Bratskeir

Zimmermann

The scene: Designer Nicky Zimmermann who hails from
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Designer Nicky Zimmermann who hails from Australia has clearly solidified her transition from bathing suits to ready-to-wear and filled her audience with gorgeous, tall Aussie gals dressed to the nines. The clothes: Calling the collection a mix "of the conservative and disobedient," Zimmermann worked a heavy-duty dose of Victoriana into the frilly, pale line-up. Big skirted, nipped waisted dresses got their naughtiness factor from super short hemlines, sexy lace sleeves and revealing string-like shoulder wraps. Delicate airy florals were standout amidst the pale pink and white palette. The accessories: Very cool tooled leather belts and necklaces were a lovely foil to all the froth. -- Anne Bratskeir

Rosie Assoulin

The scene: Everybody in the pool!! Summer's not
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Everybody in the pool!! Summer's not dead yet, not when Rosie Assoulin sets her presentation in an emptied-out swimming pool at a downtown rec center. To keep us all cool, she offered up iced teas and frozen pops to the attendees and models. The clothes: All-out sex appeal, in tropical shades and a vaguely '70s vibe. There were dresses worn with one strap fallen off the shoulder, either by happenstance, or some were designed to look that way. Or bare both of yours, with a sunshiny orange off-the-shoulder peasant top and skinny white pants with cut-out knees. One model in a flowing white number couldn't resist swirling and twirling in the breeze. Who could blame her? The double-take: Seriously?? Are those abs for real? A gorgeous model with a Foxy Brown afro looked h-h-hot in low-slung drapey pants and a swirling top with cut-outs in all the right places. She's a tough act to follow. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Tadashi Shoji

A beautiful runway entrance was draped with hanging
Photo Credit: EPA / Stephen Chernin

A beautiful runway entrance was draped with hanging wisteria heralding the designers serene and very romantic garden party which included front rower Alyssa Milano in black lace Tadashi. The clothes:  Pretty, pretty, pretty and inspired by Japanese gardens these were the most ethereal of looks many embroidered with flowers -- peonies, irises and cherry blossoms.  Silhouettes were occasionally slim but more often full and floaty, mostly formal, save for a couple of smart day dresses.  A series of looks in purple, dubbed "purple haze" in notes with blossom applique, were luscious. ... drama queen material. The last look, a sweeping embroidered kimono coat worn over an embroidered top and floor length skirt was a stunner. Don't forget: Your undergarments.  Many of the models went without  in the sheerest of looks and when we say sheer, we mean sheer. -- Anne Bratskeir

Desigual

The scene: Packed and jubilant, the front row
Photo Credit: Melissa Kravitz

The scene: Packed and jubilant, the front row here featured a varied lot from actress Laverne Cox, looking beautiful, but seeming a little peeved with the press, to perhaps the world's most fashionable senior citizen, Iris Apfel. The clothes: A wildly eclectic mix of looks for downtown girls turned out in clever and unexpected combos such as oversized shirts topping tiny little minis and sweaters worn as scarves. You name it, they had it: graphic florals, eye-popping prints, knits, jumpsuits, colorful quilted vests ?it was a fun but frenetic jumble. Take note: Wild head toppers dripping with jewels and chains included denim headphones, crowns and bows, and then there was the nose jewelry-- plastic looking cones and rings in bright colors that were a bit distracting, but hey, these are the cool girls. -- Anne Bratskeir

Marissa Webb

The scene: Wet, as Mother Nature took the
Photo Credit: Getty Images

The scene: Wet, as Mother Nature took the opportunity to pour just as stylish front-rowers arrived for the Marissa Webb show. The clothes: Pretty and easy-to-wear (the pink tux blazers, the coral and floral dresses), but things really revved up when Webb (who's also creative director at Banana Republic) got her green on. Think cool cinched vests, bombers and utility vests in army green, with a sheer blouse or flouncing skirt thrown in for fun contrast. The standout look: The blue lace jumper, or the fab lace and plaid sleeveless dress with sexy cut- outs -- or that deconstructed leather vest. Hard to pick just one. -- Joseph V. Amodio

Carrie Underwood, Calia

Strike a pose. That may have been the
Photo Credit: Getty Images / Bryan Bedder

Strike a pose. That may have been the mantra for models in Carrie Underwood's show -- the launch of her new activewear collection, Calia, to be sold at Dick's Sporting Goods stores, held downtown early Sept. 10. Each model, in leggings, hoodies, strappy tops, a snood, even, stopped to strut their athletic stuff -- a headstand, a yoga pose, a dance move, and in a few less impressive cases, a stretch. They weren't the only ones working it -- one gal sat on stationary bike accessorized with a blender. As she pedaled, she powered the blender which made the smoothies and green juice served up at the event. Natch the soundtrack was pure Underwood, who came out to take her bow wearing leggings and a top from the collection. -- Anne Bratskeir

LC Runway by Lauren Conrad

Before New York Fashion Week officially kicked off
Photo Credit: Melissa Kravitz

Before New York Fashion Week officially kicked off on Sept. 10, Lauren Conrad debuted her LC Runway collection for Kohl's at Chelsea's Skylight Modern. Guests were greeted by towers of pink Veuve Clicquot to sip before the runway. Ashley Tisdale and Chrissy Teigen both made it out to ogle the hyper-feminine and floral collection, perhaps better suited for a Laguna Beach spring than Manhattan in any season. Conrad and friends celebrated the reality star's NYFW debut at Beauty and Essex on Sept. 9 at night, where we're told they enjoyed tomato soup dumplings and petite cupcakes. -- Melissa Kravitz

Nicholas K

Nicholas K officially opened NYFW at Clarkson Square
Photo Credit: Melissa Kravitz

Nicholas K officially opened NYFW at Clarkson Square on Sept. 10. A show known to be rife with celebrities, famous faces were spare -- perhaps due to the 9 a.m. ticket time. The SS16 collection features lightweight nylons and cottons, wrapped and twisted with nautical ropes and hooks as if to prepare models for a futuristic safari. Teva sandals paired with matching ankle socks for each look prove #normcore isn't going anywhere in 2016.

BCBGMaxazria

BCBGMaxazria's show at Moynihan Station combined acoustic and
Photo Credit: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

BCBGMaxazria's show at Moynihan Station combined acoustic and soft rock (The Rolling Stones) with a runway showing off flowing, layered garments in pastels, florals and embroidery. Cotton tops and skirts, tie pale dye and muted colors secured a "Bohemian" label for BCBGMaxazria's newest collection. Models donned multicolored bucket hats, a trend one can only hope catches on this Spring, with natural makeup and loose hair.

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